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spudulike

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A small pit in the cylinder can aid oil retention, so is not always a bad thing, what you do not want is material above the cylinder surface.

 

Yup, the area above the exhaust port makes the secondary compression and gives you decent power if the job has been done right. the lower part is of much less importance.

 

I wouldn't do any heavy work on scores above the exhaust port as it is possible to cause a very shallow recess in the cylinder wall that will cause blowby of the exhaust gasses and haemorrhage your compression figure.

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That's good news I think I'll leave it at that. Reading this thread back a few 500 pages picking up info, I decided to find my oem cylinder which I thought I threw out. Then that's the end result. Time and patience are a wonderful thing. New meteor piston I think is all I need then I can order a mityvac 👍

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

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http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196831&stc=1&d=1452510439http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196832&stc=1&d=1452510439

Another 254 xp that will be back in work soon :thumbup:. Passed the Vac test so carb and fuel line to do as 150psi comp has already been found and the cylinder/ring checked over.

Back AV's shot …Genuine ones are available but they aren't cheep !

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Here today is a class on splitting a crankcase and removal of crank and bearings. This MS660 had partially seized, the machine was able to run and it's owner did which scoured the bore of the aluminium transfer and dumped it in the main bearings seriously knocking out the flywheel side one.

 

Washing the bottom end out didn't cure it and the only option is to fit new bearings so.....

 

A good selection of splitters and splitting tools is a good place to start and saves belting the saw with bigger and bigger mallets until something breaks!

 

I split the cases with my home made splitter, this one was relatively straight forward, just make sure ALL the bolts are removed and the dowels pushed half way out.

 

I then use the Husqvarna splitter which locates on either side of the main bearing and pushes the crank out cleanly. I could have used this on both sides but having stuck a broken 6mm drill through my thumb some time ago felt I should use it:blushing::lol:

 

The main bearings are then pushed out with a suitable socket and the biggest G clamp you can lay your hands on - old English is best:thumbup:

 

This one went pretty smoothly, I have had some bearings stick on the crank and be almost impossible to shift!

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59766efa2017b_TheTools.jpg.87d73bd089eea5fc8feec0687d504721.jpg

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Here today is a class on splitting a crankcase and removal of crank and bearings. This MS660 had partially seized, the machine was able to run and it's owner did which scoured the bore of the aluminium transfer and dumped it in the main bearings seriously knocking out the flywheel side one.

 

Washing the bottom end out didn't cure it and the only option is to fit new bearings so.....

 

A good selection of splitters and splitting tools is a good place to start and saves belting the saw with bigger and bigger mallets until something breaks!

 

I split the cases with my home made splitter, this one was relatively straight forward, just make sure ALL the bolts are removed and the dowels pushed half way out.

 

I then use the Husqvarna splitter which locates on either side of the main bearing and pushes the crank out cleanly. I could have used this on both sides but having stuck a broken 6mm drill through my thumb some time ago felt I should use it:blushing::lol:

 

The main bearings are then pushed out with a suitable socket and the biggest G clamp you can lay your hands on - old English is best:thumbup:

 

This one went pretty smoothly, I have had some bearings stick on the crank and be almost impossible to shift!

Careful Steve, train too many and you won't have any work!

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