lewisyounger16
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Everything posted by lewisyounger16
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I'll be honest I can't believe I didn't pick that up earlier. It felt like it had the same amount of compression as my ms260 and that is a weapon. Had the running issue again, had to richen the h screw again until it cleared up, might buy an ultrasonic cleaner and try a carb clean like that.
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I was thinking something like that don't worry haha!
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Nothing makes me happier than just pulling it and pulling it all night long.
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Turns out I was reading the inside of the gun son which is mpa, outside is psi and it has around 160-170 psi
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I'll check my ms260 and my 026 at the weekend and compare. I gave it about 5 pulls, normal pills not especially yanking on it
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It's running now, turns out the carb was pretty much blocked with something as the little strainer mesh was missing. Replaced it and then ran the saw up and richened the h screw until it sorted itself out. Need to get it running until its hot now. I'll check another saw, I'm using a gunsons gauge with the valve on the tip, pull it over until it stops moving the needle.
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New filter. Always a new filter. Good to know about the swelling though.
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I was put off by those when researching as you could allegedly damage a transfer or something if a stone snags them.
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I did my best, used brick cleaner to remove the aluminium transfer then lightly sanded with fine wet and dry and finished with a bit of scotchbrite. Honed as best as I could, it didn't look awful.
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It was at around 50 with the knackered piston and rings, I am assuming (maybe wrongly) that the new piston rings need to bed in before the compression rises accordingly. It does sound like an air leak, I think I will pressure test it again just to make sure. One thing I didn't do was whilst testing turn the crank I don't know it that's a correct method or not.
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Good god I hope so. Worth noting that the crank side is okay, I fitted a new bearing and a new oiler. It ran for a good 25 minutes in the wood fine and dandy cut lovely, then acted as if it was running out of fuel and then this problem started.
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Think it's built in to the carb manifold, I couldn't see any faults with the manifold, but when idling I sprayed some carb cleaner behind the carb as best I could and it would stall. Which makes me think that the manifold is compromised. However I would have though the pressure and vac test would have picked that up.
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Came to me "no spark" Turns out it was a straight fuel. Saved the cylinder, new meteor piston and caber rings great. Pressure and vac tested @ 10psi for 10 minutes diagnosing a leaking deconp valve, new valve, fixed tests passed. Compression tested at 120 psi. New rubbers and diaphragms in carb, new fuel lines top and bottom. New plug. Ran it into wood and it was fine for about 15 minutes then started to not pick up on the revs from idle without bogging down and stalling, (that's when fuel lines were replaced after this) Saw will pop on choke and run on half choke until flicked off, then will idle and eventually die, but will not rev unless the trigger is pulsed. Not sure what else to try it's doing my head in, what I thought was a bargain saw is being a total pig.
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A week or so ago I put a 10mm hole in a 2013 ms201t, removed the limiter and turned the H screw counter clockwise about half a turn. I'm just concerned that's the bit I might be wrong with, I searched the Web and found that a 201t stock h screw position is 2 turns out, is that right? And a muffmod one will need to be slightly rich, so does 2 and a half turns out seem right? Seems to sound okay at WOT with a bit of 4 stroking, I'm concerned it isn't tuned right, but it picks up from idle okay and revs well.
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I smell an intake manifold being needed at some point.
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Changed careers and went into Machining. Bought it new, used it well and looked after it. New owner is a happy man. Me? Not so much. Mistakes were made.
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My 461. Sold it when I changed jobs, miss it a lot. 372xp next I think on my list to buy
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But if you're awake santa won't visit you! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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I remember seeing an ad for this on Facebook. The ad said something akin to them using "high quality USA Steel" when question i got told "it's USA Steel, all you need to know" I guess they found a compromise between harness and ability to hold an edge, and ability to be worked easily. Still would like to know what steel it is. And how it's so much better than chains from a multi million dollar companies who have extensive R&D teams who are trying to get the edge on the handful of other multi million dollar companies with extensive R&D teams. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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I've got a hrd 536 with a drive problem (shocker). Took roller off, stripped gearbox and couldn't see any problems, so I changed the position of the arm on the top a few notches so it engages harder. Now the roller will engage when in low revs, but not in high revs, but if you start in low revs, engage the drive then put it in high drive it works. Any idea? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Manufacturing defect? Hit a chunk of carbon? Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
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Yeah it holds vacuum but not pressure, but I was wondering if it didn't hold vacuum, how you would check for a vacuum leak. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
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Turns out it was my botched attempt at a crank seal change on the flywheel side. Leaking under pressure. How can you check for vacuum leaks? It held 10 psi for ages, tried squirting some fairy liquid but no bubbles. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
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Need to get a pressure tester now! Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
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Anyone got a rough idea on what a subaru wrx on a 04 plate, with possible headmaster issues would be worth? Also a smashed up drivers side door. Just a thought! Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
