lewisyounger16

Do that before some wet and dry? Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

What can I buy in shop to remove alu transfer? Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

The other side: Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Any chance this is salvageable? Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Would be tricky to do both at the same time though. Could set a zero and work to it it guess. Might achieve the same results. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I can stick a new set of bearings and seals and gaskets in, a new intake manifold and a new vacuum hose and it should be good. Set the carb back to stock and hopefully it will be good again Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Hi guys, Recently my 036qs developed a running issue, once warm would not run at idle and would cut out and not start unless on half choke. I pit it down to carb adjustment. While in the shed today I thought I'd peep down the exhaust and turns out the exhaust side is all scored and one ring was stuck in. I got the saw for cheap for the same reason, no compression. Stupidly I put it down to straight fueling and replaced the piston and cylinder with a kit from L and S engineers for about £50. Now I'm in a position of wanting to fix it, but what should I do? It's not worth an oem kit as it's expensive, I was thinking meteor piston and cylinder? I'd get a decompression plug bung too. But my main issue is this has happened again, and I'm not sure why. I have no pressure test equipment, should I replace the impulse line and intake boot whilst I'm at it? Where else is it likely to leak? Thanks in advance Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

One where I used to work had a 18hp kohler magnum on it, used to tow the bloke behind it haha Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Micro switches have a mechanical service life, something like 100000 actuation before they degrade. And an electrical life of say, 5ma for 5000 hours or something. Easy to test. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Thing I learned fitting was, most times its quicker to take the engine off. That effort is payed back in ease of work. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Thought I'd chip in here. I used to work as a maintenance engineer, I was there machinist. I used to mill, turn and surface grind. We had Jones and shipman 540 grinders, nice bits of kit. I did a set of tw125 blades for a friend. I used the magnetic table and a magnetic angle table, or a sine chuck if you like terminology. You set them up using slip guage and a sine chart to attain the correct angle. Then clean the table so no grit will change the angle and clean the gunk off the blades and support them. Then dress the wheel and touch off and keep taking passes until they have cleaned up and you have a even shiny smooth ground surface all across the blade. I picked a 60 grit wheel and took .01" to .02" cuts with coolant to keep the temp down not to change the temper. What it produced was flat ground razor sharp blades done in 20 minutes including set up and a bit of stropping with some wood to remove the burr. I wasn't sure how to hollow grind but I'm sure it can be done. Ill attach a video once it's uploaded. Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

I found one in a skip with a duff crank end, replaced the worm gear as the end was lopped off and a new spur sprocket, bearing and some grease it's been okay since, regular greasing to keep on top of it. But some monkey picked it out of the truck and was revving the nuts off it and slamming the chain brake on hard and full chat. Now there seems a lot of play in the sprocket. I'm trying to source a new crank but I refuse to pay £220 for a crank for a saw I found in a bin. Anyone know any aftermarket suppliers or have a smashed up 261 laying about? Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk