What's on your bench today?

[slim reaper]

cheers spud - can't seem to find this stuff when i google it?

 

cheers rich for the other suggestion

Try Seal-all !

[spudulike]

Seal all i mean. Where do you buy yours? Found some now.what supplier do you use?

 

[ame]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eclectic-Seal-All-Gas-Oil-Resistant-Adhesive/dp/B001U7EJVS[/ame]

Do you guys know how to use google:001_rolleyes:

 

You type what you want to find in that big blank box in the middle:thumbup1:

[slim reaper]

 

The next option is a carbon steel insert with 2mm wall thickness, if the tapped hole is good, it will be strong once done:thumbup:

 

Would that be a Time-sert insert? I use Filtec coil system which has stepped tap for openining the holes but only use it as I don't get enough plug repairs to justify the cost of Time-sert.

slim

[openspaceman]

Amazon - it is the only stuff I have found to truly resist petrol!

 

Have you ever used Heldite?

 

I'll try this Sealall, how hard does it set?

[mikerecike]

Amazon - it is the only stuff I have found to truly resist petrol!

 

thanks very much spud - so just to belt and braces it - the 'correct' size seal is leaking air - not on the crankshaft, around the outside. To remove it I'd waste the seal so should i just squeeze it down around the outer seal. I've got an old pioneer that i don't think i can get a seal for that's leaking in the same place - would a squirt of this be a reasonable repair in those circumstances?

 

cheers and much appreciated as usual

[broonie]

Paint, Glue, Grease, Cleaner & Oil :: Glue :: Seal-All Gas & Oil-Resistant Adhesive - wee bit cheaper if you dinnae use it regularily

[spudulike]

Would that be a Time-sert insert? I use Filtec coil system which has stepped tap for openining the holes but only use it as I don't get enough plug repairs to justify the cost of Time-sert.

slim

 

No not Time Sert - they use screw taps that are specific to their inserts - PITA in my opinion!

 

The cheap stepped taps are pretty poor and brutal IMO - I will be using a HSS hand reamer for a much more accurate finish for the tap - the better the tapped hole, the stronger the bond.

 

I also will use a decent high temp thread lock - it has worked damn well on a MS460 before:thumbup:

[spudulike]

Have you ever used Heldite?

 

I'll try this Sealall, how hard does it set?

 

Semi hard - not like an epoxy - a bit like hot glue in hardness - goes off pretty quickly, fast solvents!

[spudulike]

thanks very much spud - so just to belt and braces it - the 'correct' size seal is leaking air - not on the crankshaft, around the outside. To remove it I'd waste the seal so should i just squeeze it down around the outer seal. I've got an old pioneer that i don't think i can get a seal for that's leaking in the same place - would a squirt of this be a reasonable repair in those circumstances?

 

cheers and much appreciated as usual

 

It my be that the seal is Imperial and not metric?? Usually seals will be a tight fit on both the ID and OD.

 

It is reasonable to force some of this down any cavity between the seal and the recess it fits in to - I am wondering if you have measured the crank recess and shaft diameter correctly.

 

Some seals may be non standard sizing!

[H-A]

It my be that the seal is Imperial and not metric?? Usually seals will be a tight fit on both the ID and OD.

 

If the seal has a steel case, then you can tweak it a little with pliers to increase the OD, then seal in place. I have used loctite bearing lock as that was to hand, it sets in an an-aerobic atmosphere to as long as the joint is close it works.

 

H-A