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angled back cuts


MattyF
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if the stem is that thin then you can cut and hold, or cut and snap, if it is too heavy then you should be able to bore cut and leave a conventional horizontal hinge, I dont see any need for a downward back-cut, it is bad practice

 

You can do a downward back cut AND leave a "conventional" hinge.

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matt

explain

is the finish of the cut below that of your sink cut ?

or do you start high therefore leaving the final hinge as in a conventional flat fell cut

 

yep thats it..say on leylandii regrowth very close together or coppice where you cant bore in becouse everthing is so close together...some times it would be the only option??

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if the stem is that thin then you can cut and hold, or cut and snap, if it is too heavy then you should be able to bore cut and leave a conventional horizontal hinge, I dont see any need for a downwards back-cut, it is bad practice

 

:confused:

Why bad practice on small stems? No safety issue and as long as the section is under control. Use it!

 

Different issue though for large stems, granted

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About 90% of the trees that I have seen being felled in Brazil (not by me) they will use a down slop angled back cut.

 

Their theory is that if you use a downward anlgle on the back cut the tree has no chance to fall back the other way.

 

Crazy right!!!! But then again a lot of things are done different here. To me it seems wrong and have never done it this way.

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People somtimes yse an angled back cut on brittle hardwood.The idea is that if the tree starts to "barber chair" then the angle of the backcut prevents the slab from splitting out off the back of the Trunk.I can see how this would work but cutting at an angle is the longest way to cut through the Trunk so if the wood is brittle it gives it longer to Barber chair.I think this method was made redundant in Felling operations by the "bore and release" method.

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