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Quality/durability of different makes of wood burning stoves.


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Many thanks for all your much appreciated, informative replies which have been very helpful. Next thing will be to visit  wood stove supplier R W Knight and Son, premises at Marshfield,Nr Chippenham .

Off topic I am just going to start a thread "Do soot/tar removers really work on flues." 

Perhaps some of have experience of using them

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2 hours ago, difflock said:

Why would you need a soot/tar remover chemical for your flue?

Burn dry wood, with sufficient air for complete combustion.

Worked for me since 1996.

'96 was the year of enlightenment? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 29/10/2023 at 08:10, trigger_andy said:

I’m in a Sandstone Farmhouse from 1880 and don’t have any of the issues you’re having. Both my stoves are modern Eco designs. 

I'm glad for you.  Mine is a similar age and type of property. I have tried every trick up my sleeve with no success so far!

 

13 hours ago, cessna said:

Many thanks for all your much appreciated, informative replies which have been very helpful. Next thing will be to visit  wood stove supplier R W Knight and Son, premises at Marshfield,Nr Chippenham .

Off topic I am just going to start a thread "Do soot/tar removers really work on flues." 

Perhaps some of have experience of using them

First off obviously if you burn dry wood creosote is less likely to develop. However in reality most old properties will have some tar or creosote from years of use.  This is flammable and can cause chimney fires.  There are some aggressive brushes you can use, but I am nervous that these will cause harm to mortar and clay liners. One of my flues is pretty bad, so I am currently using this stuff.  You sprinkle it onto the dying embers last thing at night once a week.

SHOP.VITCAS.COM

Vitcas® CFC Chimney and Flue Cleaner is an excellent cleaning product for eliminating creosote, soot and tar deposits from chimneys and flue linings. Can even be used on...

 

 

On 28/10/2023 at 18:39, spudulike said:

Measure each block and order off one of the eBay suppliers. If the block is oversize, just trim it down with a wood saw, pretty easy stuff to work with 

We have had a couple of Stovax stoves and they aren't as bad as this. The Riva was pretty good, the current one is OK so far

 

This is what I do.  Its best to replace the bricks/panels before they crumble into pieces.  I buy vermiculite of the same thickness and then draw round the old panels.

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On 28/10/2023 at 18:39, spudulike said:

Measure each block and order off one of the eBay suppliers. If the block is oversize, just trim it down with a wood saw, pretty easy stuff to work with 

We have had a couple of Stovax stoves and they aren't as bad as this. The Riva was pretty good, the current one is OK so far

 Thats what I did in the end as I needed to get the heat back on.

Still no sign of the 'official' set.

 

I don't get the tertiary air with the set I made up but I won't buy side pieces from Stovax ever again, apart from anything else the stuff I bought from eBay seems more robust (might be just me ...).

 

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2 hours ago, Mik the Miller said:

I don't get the tertiary air with the set I made up but I won't buy side pieces from Stovax ever again, apart from anything else the stuff I bought from eBay seems more robust (might be just me ...).

 

 

 

Is the tertiary air via holes in the brick? I wonder whether you can just drill a few holes in the next ones to do the same job? Probably all scientifically designed but drilling a few holes might be better than nothing? (though half of my suspects someone in the factory just poked holes in the template and it worked)

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2 hours ago, david lawrence said:

Jotul approaching 50 years old ??

highly inefficient no doubt  but Keeping us 👍cosy

As long as it works for you, thats all that matters👍

This day and age too many folk seem to be wanting to run how other people should run there lives rather than just minding their own damn  business.

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