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Using green wood for outdoor structures (like wood shelters)


carbs for arbs
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Hi

 

I have a larch in the garden which needs to come down... 

 

And I'm in the process of building several wood shelters (along with other outdoor projects I have on the to do list)...  

 

I was thinking to use the larch for some of the posts etc, either as is, or splitting the thick parts of the truck to make better sized more useful timbers.  What I don't know is whether there are major drawbacks to using green wood for such things.  On the one hand, I see these bushcraft types and "Life in the Wild" types building all kinds of things including houses, with the freshly cut wood from trees around them.  Yet on the other hand, I know green wood will move a lot as it dries/seasons, and more obviously when you buy wood for such projects it has been kiln dried, treated etc.  

 

So if anyone has any info in and around these questions please, I would love to read and learn.  

 

Many thanks

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6 hours ago, carbs for arbs said:

Hi

 

I have a larch in the garden which needs to come down... 

 

And I'm in the process of building several wood shelters (along with other outdoor projects I have on the to do list)...  

 

I was thinking to use the larch for some of the posts etc, either as is, or splitting the thick parts of the truck to make better sized more useful timbers.  What I don't know is whether there are major drawbacks to using green wood for such things.  On the one hand, I see these bushcraft types and "Life in the Wild" types building all kinds of things including houses, with the freshly cut wood from trees around them.  Yet on the other hand, I know green wood will move a lot as it dries/seasons, and more obviously when you buy wood for such projects it has been kiln dried, treated etc.  

 

So if anyone has any info in and around these questions please, I would love to read and learn.  

 

Many thanks

It will be fine for garden structures, just allow for a bit of movement and shrinkage across the grain.  

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Strip the bark off, that will help it last a bit longer

 

 

7 hours ago, carbs for arbs said:

 and more obviously when you buy wood for such projects it has been kiln dried, treated etc.  

 

Virtually all the swan timber I buy is larch (occasionally douglas fir!), straight from the mill, and that is never kiln dried or treated

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21 minutes ago, scbk said:

Strip the bark off, that will help it last a bit longer

 

 

 

Virtually all the swan timber I buy is larch (occasionally douglas fir!), straight from the mill, and that is never kiln dried or treated

I no longer buy swan timber for environmental reasons…..

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If you want to maximize the  lifespan of a pole barn type  structure the  below ground posts always  seem to be first to rot so you could  consider having overhanging eaves or  using landscaping / french drains etc to channel water away

 

Or saddle stones etc

 

WWW.ROUNDWOOD.COM

As these staddle stones are made from natural granite they may contain differences in colouring and surface finish, chips...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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My cunning plan is to one day build a log store resting on these:

 

WWW.UK-TIMBER.CO.UK

Decking Blocks are stocked by UK Timber, one of the leading suppliers of Decking Components. We stock a wide range...

 

Hopefully should reduce pole rot and I can just level my paddock, plonk them down and lay boards / posts on top. Maybe!

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20 minutes ago, Stere said:

If you want to maximize the  lifespan of a pole barn type  structure the  below ground posts always  seem to be first to rot so you could  consider having overhanging eaves or  using landscaping / french drains etc to channel water away

 

Or saddle stones etc

 

WWW.ROUNDWOOD.COM

As these staddle stones are made from natural granite they may contain differences in colouring and surface finish, chips...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These look like a good solution, up here in the wet North West I like all wooden things to be at least a foot or even better 18" off the ground, and as you say an over hanging roof really helps👍

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