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What's the best fuel for chainsaws?


Maxd
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1 hour ago, Maxd said:

I have been using the stihl fuel but people have been saying the aspen is good..

Where is the cheapest to get this? Or is there a better fuel?

I don't think there's much performance difference between the alkylate fuels, the different brands obviously run slightly different oils but it's all premium stuff. I haven't noticed a lot of price difference unless you buy in quantity, such as 200 litres you can start to get better pricing.

 

I'm on pump fuel though, as above I buy premium because some of my kit is well over 10 years old. Esso E5 is ethanol free so for me that's the way to go. 

 

Modern saws are designed for E10 so will be fine as long as you don't keep it around long enough for water absorption or and/or oil separation to take place, which should be fine if you use what you buy within 30days according to Stihl.

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1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

Yeh, from what Ive read on here you can run you engine on Unleaded indefinitely but switching to Aspen will suddenly causes the issues you mention above. So don’t switch abd you’re good to keep running on Unleaded. Want to make the switch? Then it will kill

your saw, but it’s the petrols fault, not Aspens. 🤣

So if you really want to get bent over the barrel and run Aspen then first change out everything you suggest and get bent over twice. 
 

It’s a no from me. 


If you run pump fuel you need to run it regular for the degradation symptoms not to appear, but if you need to let the saw rest months on end the rubber parts can “dry out” and the cracks appear causing running problems.
sometimes you can be lucky and run aspen on a older or saw with no problems, (like my 880) sometimes not (like my 020) 

In theory, and as seems to be the case for my dozen or so saws run on aspen, there’s no problem with long periods of hibernation or fuel going off

i guess it’s circumstance, personal preference and personal values that decide on what’s the best fuel though 

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Mr Stihl and Mrs Husqvarna designed their saws to run on petrolwell  over 50 years ago at least , they are for a Worldwide market . I have being using saws for about 40 years now and never had a problem attributed to the fuel !!!!  the change from leaded to unleaded caused some issues but that was ages ago . I often leave stuff , strimmer esp for months and have no issues when starting it up come spring , same with motorbikes ....boat engines etc ...

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28 minutes ago, josharb87 said:


If you run pump fuel you need to run it regular for the degradation symptoms not to appear, but if you need to let the saw rest months on end the rubber parts can “dry out” and the cracks appear causing running problems.
sometimes you can be lucky and run aspen on a older or saw with no problems, (like my 880) sometimes not (like my 020) 

In theory, and as seems to be the case for my dozen or so saws run on aspen, there’s no problem with long periods of hibernation or fuel going off

i guess it’s circumstance, personal preference and personal values that decide on what’s the best fuel though 

Right, I believe that’s kinda what I said? Switching from petrol to the likes of Aspen will kill a saw that would have ran forever on petrol. But the blame is put on petrol “drying” 🙄 out the rubber components and only come to a head as soon as they switch to Aspen. 🙄The work around is replace every component or run Aspen from new. 
I work with guys that have done the swap and their saws are now  in getting rebuilt. 

I know it’s anecdotal but Ive saws and other 2stroke tools that have been used intermittently for at least 20 years with no issues at all. Some that won’t start til I replace the mouse eaten primer bulb.  Never had an issue with petrol, but Aspen would kill them. Folks should be aware of that. 
 

If I was to buy a new Saw now I’d consider Asen from the get go. 

 

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Basically, E5 petrol is absorbed by the fuel line, carb diaphragms and seals, when Aspen is used on a machine that has run on petrol for a long period, the lack of petrol causes the rubber components to go hard and contract because of the lack of petrol.

E10 fuel is the same but it also absorbs more water so is likely to cause water damage to carb components.

If you use Aspen on a new machine, all is fine. If you use Aspen on a machine that has used petrol for a few years, the rubber components will harden causing fuel leaks and diaphragm hardening. If you decide to use Aspen, it is best on a new machine or factor in changing the parts mentioned.

It isn't the Aspen causing the damage to the rubber components but is the fact the petrol has been absorbed by them and the lack of petrol then degrading them. 

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29 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Right, I believe that’s kinda what I said? Switching from petrol to the likes of Aspen will kill a saw that would have ran forever on petrol. But the blame is put on petrol “drying” 🙄 out the rubber components and only come to a head as soon as they switch to Aspen. 🙄The work around is replace every component or run Aspen from new. 
I work with guys that have done the swap and their saws are now  in getting rebuilt. 

I know it’s anecdotal but Ive saws and other 2stroke tools that have been used intermittently for at least 20 years with no issues at all. Some that won’t start til I replace the mouse eaten primer bulb.  Never had an issue with petrol, but Aspen would kill them. Folks should be aware of that. 
 

If I was to buy a new Saw now I’d consider Asen from the get go. 

 


not really, your opinion that is quoted was based on “what you’ve read” not based on personal, actual experience? 

 

As I understand and has been backed with experience is that petrol doesnt “dry out” rubber components but degrades them, symptoms that CAN then appear are when those components are left dry/without petrol present are that those components then shrivel/crack due to the degradation from a substance in normal petrol causing subsequent running problems. Aspen or alkylate fuel doesn’t have this swelling

/degradation ingredient/compound (forget which one it is) 

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3 minutes ago, josharb87 said:


not really, your opinion that is quoted was based on “what you’ve read” not based on personal, actual experience? 

 

As I understand and has been backed with experience is that petrol doesnt “dry out” rubber components but degrades them, symptoms that CAN then appear are when those components are left dry/without petrol present are that those components then shrivel/crack due to the degradation from a substance in normal petrol causing subsequent running problems. Aspen or alkylate fuel doesn’t have this swelling

/degradation ingredient/compound (forget which one it is) 

My opinion, and I freely admitted it from the outset was based of feedback from this website. Then I added personal experience from guys I work with that backed up what the feedback from this website lead me to believe. 
 

Namely; don’t run saws previously ran on pump gas with Aspen.
 

If you wish to make the change then be prepared for extensive service parts replacement . 
 

If you’ve a new saw then by all means start it on Aspen
 

Have I got something wrong? 
 

 

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I have had plenty of customers move over to alkylate fuel with no issues at all, they have all been husky or stihl machines though. The exception is probably 200t owners but that is more down to the poor design of the carb. I've seen plenty of cheap branded machines that haven't managed more than a year before the fuel line turns to jelly while using petrol! 

 

What I will say is dump your fuel can every now and then as I see a lot, and I mean a lot of water in the ranks of machines these days. The last one this week must have had at least 20cc of water in the tank it engine totally knackered and it wasn't worth fixing. £250 out of pocket for a new chainsaw. That would have bought him a lot of alkyate fuel, probably enough for 5 years worth of use.

 

Whatever petrol or two stroke mix you use, don't use old fuel and check your tanks  for contamination regularly.

 

Everyone should give it a try, dump your fuel into a clear container, I bet most people will find that it looks cloudy. Leave it for an hour or so and then check it out. Look for a water bubble at the bottom. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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