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D009 bar on a K095 mount head?


FlyFishn
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Has anyone modified a D009 bar to fit a K095 mount power head?

 

I'm looking to get a longer bar on my saw but I'm max'ed out at 24" it appears (which is what I've been running). As far as the "work" to do the modification I am pretty well versed in metal fabrication so adjusting the holes (welding, re-drilling if it takes that), making bushings, sleeves, etc is all possible. I suppose my 2 concerns on the "work" of doing the modification are:

1. That the chain line at the end of the bar is OK (is the taper going to allow the chain to mesh with the power head/sprocket correctly?)

2. That there is an acceptable path for oil to flow to the channel.

 

At the end of the day I want a bar that will allow me to cut bigger wood than what I top out at with the 24" bar. The times I've come across that are few and far between, so I am not wanting to invest in a whole power head/bar combo if I don't have to. I don't mind cutting slow for the times I'd need to, as long as I can.

 

The power head I have is a Husq 455 Rancher. It's been a great saw and with the 24" bar + skip chain I can get through nearly everything I've ever tried to cut. I realize it isn't "rated" for a bigger bar, but if I take it slow (maybe with a less aggressive cutting chain, or grinding one to be less aggressive) I'd think it will work. Its not something I'd run unless I had a few big cuts to make. Where I am and the wood that is around here is just rarely that big, but every once in a while a longer bar would be really handy.

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8 hours ago, FlyFishn said:

Has anyone modified a D009 bar to fit a K095 mount power head?

 

I'm looking to get a longer bar on my saw but I'm max'ed out at 24" it appears (which is what I've been running). As far as the "work" to do the modification I am pretty well versed in metal fabrication so adjusting the holes (welding, re-drilling if it takes that), making bushings, sleeves, etc is all possible. I suppose my 2 concerns on the "work" of doing the modification are:

1. That the chain line at the end of the bar is OK (is the taper going to allow the chain to mesh with the power head/sprocket correctly?)

2. That there is an acceptable path for oil to flow to the channel.

 

At the end of the day I want a bar that will allow me to cut bigger wood than what I top out at with the 24" bar. The times I've come across that are few and far between, so I am not wanting to invest in a whole power head/bar combo if I don't have to. I don't mind cutting slow for the times I'd need to, as long as I can.

 

The power head I have is a Husq 455 Rancher. It's been a great saw and with the 24" bar + skip chain I can get through nearly everything I've ever tried to cut. I realize it isn't "rated" for a bigger bar, but if I take it slow (maybe with a less aggressive cutting chain, or grinding one to be less aggressive) I'd think it will work. Its not something I'd run unless I had a few big cuts to make. Where I am and the wood that is around here is just rarely that big, but every once in a while a longer bar would be really handy.

I think your way over the top with a 24" bar on that saw as it is,18" is the max for that size saw,but as said 15" is ideal and you can still cut fairly big stuff at that.your trying to make a saw do what it,s not designed for,if it was meant to have a bar that big you,d be able to get one off the shelf,not start modifying stuff to fit.As Stubby says should be in the joke thread this one😂

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6 hours ago, gary112 said:

I think your way over the top with a 24" bar on that saw as it is,18" is the max for that size saw,but as said 15" is ideal and you can still cut fairly big stuff at that.your trying to make a saw do what it,s not designed for,if it was meant to have a bar that big you,d be able to get one off the shelf,not start modifying stuff to fit.

I've run this saw set up this way since about 2013 as my primary saw. I surely don't run it as much as a lot of you, but for me it has worked fantastic and I've never had an issue with it. I don't expect everyone to get the same mileage. Harder wood it can be slower going, but it does the job. And that's what I'm after.

20211230_200330 small.jpg

20211230_200348 small.jpg

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Couple of pictures for you to consider, please note these are well worn bars. Both Husky bars, from a 357XP, 390XP which I think makes them K095 and D009 mount respectively. Looks like oil feed hole and tensioner holes will need some 'thought' if you pursue the idea. In the K095 overlayed on the D009 picture you can just see the oil feed hole in the D009.... 

20220103_174046-1.jpg

20220103_174234-1.jpg

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@bmp01 Excellent post!

 

Can you grab a picture of the opposite of the stack - with K095 on the bottom?


And can you butt the K095 against the D009 at the rear to show how far off the width of the tail is?

 

Just looking at that picture you have - the D009 is wider and that, without trimming, would cause the chain to rub at high pressure at the ends of the tail = increase in resistance to the chain. That was my 1st concern of the two.

 

Edit -

 

On 2nd look - with the K095 pushed back - there wouldn't be any need to close the original tensioner holes - I could redrill ones in the right spots behind the originals. That leaves the oil path and chain line to contend with (along with the fitment of smaller bolts - but like I said, bushings are pretty easy to make or better - a plate to fit in the slot).

Edited by FlyFishn
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