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Advise on 1st Chainsaw for home use


Steven1210
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Thank you Rough, that's some info I have not stumbled across, but makes perfect sense regarding hot chain.
 
When tensioning am I right that it should not sag at all from the bottom of the bar, and should be easily pulled/move along the bar?
 
Got you, oil bar first, and don't rev its nut off when not under load.
 
Thank you for the advice. I really appreciate it.[emoji4]

Yes,
To tension, lift the nose of the bar up an inch,
The chain should be loose.
Tighten until the chain comes completely into contact with the bar.
(Still holding the nose up)
Chain should move freely with a little resistance.
Then tighten off bolts and release nose.

Once you’ve done a few cuts it’ll be a bit slack with a new chain.
Loosen nuts, lift nose, retension, tighten nuts,
release nose.
Don’t forget to loosen nuts and detension after cutting, chain should be slack.
[emoji106]
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1 hour ago, Rough Hewn said:


Get a rag and rub a bit of chain oil on the bar before you use it.
When bedding a new engine in…
Try not to Rev it too much outside of a log.
After each tank of fuel, give it 45-60 minutes to cool.
Keep the chain tensioned correctly.
If it sags after a few cuts,normal for a new chain.
When you’ve retensioned and finished the first tank YOU MUST detension the chain or it will stretch as it cools possibly bending the crankshaft.
emoji106.png

Does anyone bother with this stuff in the real world? 

 

Where does the specific time of 45 to 60 mins to cool come from? 

 

I've never taken the tension off of a chain when I'm done with it, and have never bent a crank. 

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3 minutes ago, Retired Climber said:

Does anyone bother with this stuff in the real world? 

 

Where does the specific time of 45 to 60 mins to cool come from? 

 

I've never taken the tension off of a chain when I'm done with it, and have never bent a crank. 

Yes . Its bollox really . After a days cutting the chain will be slackish any way . Need tensioning before the next sharpen up . Never in all my life has a cooling chain bent a crank shaft !   EDIT . May be different for milling .

Edited by Stubby
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20 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Yes . Its bollox really . After a days cutting the chain will be slackish any way . Need tensioning before the next sharpen up . Never in all my life has a cooling chain bent a crank shaft !   EDIT . May be different for milling .

I get that it's different for milling, but we aren't talking about milling, we are talking about a bloke cutting up a few bits and pieces for firewood. If he's new to the world of saws he'll be spending more time moving stuff than cutting, and I really can't see the saw working that hard (or hot). 

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3 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:


Get a rag and rub a bit of chain oil on the bar before you use it.
When bedding a new engine in…
Try not to Rev it too much outside of a log.
After each tank of fuel, give it 45-60 minutes to cool.
Keep the chain tensioned correctly.
If it sags after a few cuts,normal for a new chain.
When you’ve retensioned and finished the first tank YOU MUST detension the chain or it will stretch as it cools possibly bending the crankshaft.
emoji106.png

Why rub oil on the bar with a rag?i,ve used saws for a good 35 years and never done any of that shit,and definately never detentioned a chain and NEVER bent a crank or heard of anyone else doing it because of this

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10 minutes ago, gary112 said:

Why rub oil on the bar with a rag?i,ve used saws for a good 35 years and never done any of that shit,and definately never detentioned a chain and NEVER bent a crank or heard of anyone else doing it because of this

Exactly Gary . What I do is when filling the chain oil I might spill a little on the bar if I'm gonna spill any but that's it .

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I rub some oil right round the whole bar when i fit a new one, drip some in the nose for the sprocket to get a head start with it all, maintenance is my day job so its just how i think. But i have been called a fanny before now, on more than one occasion! [emoji2]

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