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1 minute ago, Dan Maynard said:
14 minutes ago, 5thelement said:
I would certainly be doing a Dogs Tooth Cut over a ‘V’ cut in Sycamore.
If you don’t cut the ‘V’ cut at the correct angles you get limited control over the direction.

Second that, on my CS31 the V cut demonstration turned into the hung up tree demonstration as it went exactly where it felt like. Still, got it down and passed both bits.

 

1 minute ago, Dan Maynard said:
15 minutes ago, 5thelement said:
I would certainly be doing a Dogs Tooth Cut over a ‘V’ cut in Sycamore.
If you don’t cut the ‘V’ cut at the correct angles you get limited control over the direction.

Second that, on my CS31 the V cut demonstration turned into the hung up tree demonstration as it went exactly where it felt like. Still, got it down and passed both bits.

I remember about a hundred years ago getting one hung up on my CS diddelydoowhatever . I said to the instructor how did that happen ? He said its because it went were you aimed it . To be fair it was a narrow gap to fell it in but I was too casual with my sighting .

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24 minutes ago, 5thelement said:

I would certainly be doing a Dogs Tooth Cut over a ‘V’ cut in Sycamore.

If you don’t cut the ‘V’ cut at the correct angles you get limited control over the direction.

 

Definately agree with u.

 

From wot I was told u don't have a lot of control with direction with this cut anyway.

I thought it really only was for felling directly inline with lean.

But I do admit not that experienced with this cut.

If I wanted more directional control would be back to a normal hinge either dogs tooth, T cut or modified coos bay ( I never like severing both sides of the hinge, esp any sap wood, so start my triangle further back behind hinge) back cuts

 

Only my experience but I think if u have no sap wood on the side of the hinge if will never have enough strength to hold a tree against the weight to pull it in.

So having the V cut u have effectively severed all the sap wood at front of tree.

 

I'm sure when I was originally shown it way back when, to form the V we had 2 complete gubs meeting at the V point

 

 

 

The few times I've really needed it, it's always looked a bit rough  due to bad access to front of tree, so a wee bit of a hatchet job, definately not pretty, but always worked well and felt safe using it.

Allowed me to be in far safer positions than a normal cut would

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Coos bay cut was on my cs31 👍 yes for small trees when you can’t bore cut them.

as most of you will know, 50cc saws used and 15 “ bars are used on the coarse.

i successfully did a danish pie, aka safe corner. On the coarse . The instructor said not many people like that cut and most do a dogs tooth.

 

so maybe if you used a bigger saw and longer bar, you may have a little trouble bore cutting, But  it should still be relatively easy  with a small gob cut and easy to over do the gob cut.

I understand tree species is a factor as well. Anyhow it’s good to practice some cuts  when you get a chance  😉👍

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