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The Wee Chipper Club


TimberCutterDartmoor

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I've also had a Hyundai HYCH1500E-2 for about three years.  Great bit of kit.  Electric start works well even after leaving it for months unused.  Was using it for over 3 hrs last week shredding Yew, bits of Christmas tree and some Ash in a churchyard .  Only had two problems.  Had a small piece of wood caught between the blade and anvil when I tried to start it and shredded some Wych Elm which ended up with a length of bark rapped around the drum and stalled the machine.  Generally still shreds OK although its probably getting time to look at changing the blades.

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On 14/02/2022 at 10:12, stewmo said:

 


Can’t quite picture what you mean …. where do the credit cards go?

 

In our machine if you like?

 

You can use a credit card to set the gap between the blade and the anvil, like a DIY feeler gauge. Usually on the gravity feed machines the cutter blade is fixed and the anvil is adjustable and want to be around 1mm clearance. Although double check your ops manual :)

 

Do one blade / anvil gap, rotate the drum 180 degrees and check the other blade too.

 

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On 14/02/2022 at 21:46, Will C said:

Between the blades and the anvil. You need to get the gap even side to side.

Think I'll have to wait until I change the blades next to have a look. Can't picture it my head how I can put the credits cards there and just tap it down...doesn't make sense. Maybe there are different anvil constructions

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This is a photo of a CS100 drum. The blades are fixed by 6 screws. The anvil is held in by 5 screws. The drum housing has slotted holes for where the anvil fixes meaning the anvil is adjustable up and down. You can use a credit card to go between the blade and the anvil, adjusting the anvil down so the gap between the two is a credit card width.. 

 

Other makes maybe slightly different but will all share the common principle. 

 

CS blade gap.jpg

Edited by GA Groundcare
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Thanks. It does look similar concept. the Hyundai anvil differs in that it has a bit metal that stops it going closer to the blades. That one looks like the anvil could keep going into the blades.
The gap between the anvil and the metal casing fills up with crud that gets hardened and is very hard to get out so you have a clean run at it.
I do want to adjust the gap because the blades feel a little aggressive at the moment and restricts the diameter I can easily chip.

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2 hours ago, stewmo said:That one looks like the anvil could keep going into the blades.
 

Yes you could. When you sharpen the blades and they get smaller you need to be able to drop the anvil down to compensate. If they were not able to touch your blade gap would just get bigger post blade grind. 

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