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Felling cuts in knotty wood?


DickDancer7
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Monkey man! Between these two smaller firs here.

kent, my original plan was to alter the favor to dump it as a whole, all the weight was on the sun/house side, so i left the opposing side for that reason. 

Also just found that pic of the anchor kris, mucho graci.

   Fun thought, If a tree falls over at the root ball, and u cut the stump, it can correct itself yah? Almost like its a living thing, tentacles gripping the earth for balance/stability. Anyway I was speculating, if you have a 200 year old tree, and its got a belly on the sun side, from fighting tones of weight from its own limbs, does it make sense the tree could straighten, after removing them? 

6464A577-3D4C-404D-8E6D-8A079AB38F71.jpeg

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Mibbee a UK/USA thing but I wouldn't be using a Humboldt cut on a tree like that. ( Occasionally use them when u want the tree to snap off hinge, I use them for felling to skylines or on steep bankings where I don't want to need to go back and sever the hinge, hence why used when climbing )

If go with the standard face/gub cut, more likely for hinge to hold which is exactly wot u want n the circumstances.

If u want butt to slide off u can put a snipe in gub towards the edge off the tree but u still need the horizontal face too. ( angled cut on the horizontal)

But not sure why u would want it sliding off anyway and if felling downhill hinge will close and snap anyway almost which ever cut u use.

I'd far rather hinge held as long as possible to direct it where I wanted it, I also wouldn't put any sap wood cuts in to protect the timber from ripping.

 

Forestry cutters will knock trees like that over, or slightly smaller all the time multiple times a day ( most forestry cutters Willbe felling 3-4ft butts and 100-120ft trees as there bread and butter oversized tree usually with far more lean and wieght on 1 side)

From photos doesn't look to complicated a fell to an experienced cutter looks to be plenty of room and generally soft woods hold a good hinge ( althou not all do Grandis Fir can be a brittle hinge)

This is where experience comes in knowing ur tree species and likely hood of any butt rot or other defects ( knots won't make any difference, atleast in species i usually fell) seen hairy Norway's with paps/knots the size of ur leg never had any problems with knots.

 

A back leaner won't barbers chair anyway

 

 

 

I'd use a 20t bottle jack plus wedges, if I was worried about side lean might put a guy rope on to counter it ( done that with an ugly heavily leaning wieghted larch yest, over a field and council road).

Tirfor as a guy and 20t jack in it

 

But like many things experienced boys make it look easy BUT trees that size if they go wrong will go wrong big style and very little u can do to stop them once the cuts are in even if u realise u've screwed up.

It's not rocket science but also not the sort of job for an amatuer.

Get it wrong it could very well kill u or crush ur house

Edited by drinksloe
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