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Felling cuts in knotty wood?


DickDancer7
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Thank you for the legit responses!

    Paddy! The route id have to anchor, would most likely entail a high block, and tail hold on one of those smaller firs, also the anchor would most likely be behind the felling direction, if i was to try this route and it was successful, how would I add slack to the line as it fell? Is there a friction device for this? Lol i like the idea of a prussic, assuming thats not standard. 

    Mr ‘R Hewn’, you Read my mind! I thought i was ready to try that, then kept picturing it twisting off the hinge, collapsing, or doing something unfavorable, in the case my hinge had one or more branch attachments in there. Those knots 360 around the tree, all the way up. I also think about Jer talkin bout how u want to spend less time on the hinge during a pull, and picture 50k of tree w some favor towards a home, on that potentially ‘naughty’ hinge.  Of course i fail to find any relatable info online, except a small moment in an ‘august’ vid, and you of course. Ive had been bucking a 6’ wide fir for another friend a yr ago, was considering going back and doing some cuts near/on the b collars, see if i could get an idea of the common angles. (Angled down ususlly?)

Khriss! You talkin about a picket type anchor? Rebar and pins? Thats a cool idea, whats the standard length/diam/material you use?

Lol Stubby, im leaning towards pretending im reg, and doing it myself at this point. Honestly a little scared considering the top size, i understand the concepts but lack any experience.

-adjust favor, clean and narrow humboldt cut, 30-50% depth for hinge, snipes, secure perch, make sure that saw is running nice and gassed, ****************ing cross fingers. Was also considering binding the spar at the topping cuts, very...very naughty...

(hinge pic is the August screenshot)

 

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Basically get a bit of 6mm angle a metre long and have 6 holes equally burnt or bored out each side then get a bit of 12mm black round bar n cut the spikes (  1000mm or so, bend the ends round so you can knock them out again) bit of same round bar bent to a 'U'   welded on the  end of the angle.     Get old golf clubs bag from charity shop.  DONE.   k

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Definitely don't tag line in the opposite direction to the felling cut. No point in that at all. The only reason I suggested it is you said it had a back lean then a dog-leg vertically which in my mind says it's going to want to sit back and be a pain in the arse to fell. Hi-lift wedges or just a shit load of normal ones are your friend. I've had a similar tree, although a quite a bit smaller that did the same, lean back and not want to fall. House behind and along the left, greenhouse on the right. Luckily I put a line to the top as a fail safe just in case it wanted to go backwards it couldn't. I ran out of wedges and it was teetering on the edge of going, my weight on the line with the leverage of it being at the top of the tree was enough to pull it over. I was just thinking if you had it teetering you could always winch it but if you have nowhere to anchor to below (even though a small fir will do) then you can't.

In which case I would go the route of what others suggested, stick a couple of hoofin' great ratchet straps tight around it (I would do that whatever you do) to reduce the chances and/or consequences of a barber chair and then humboldt gob with a regular felling cut in from the back. At 6ft it's not like you need a danish pie/split level/dogtooth (even though you don't dogtooth a backleaner) to give you room to get a wedge in. If you're really worried about doing it then just spike up and take it down bit by bit. Take you longer but not as long as rebuilding the house or your friendship with the owner 😂

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Chris, thats a screenshot from a youtube vid, happened to be relevent to the topic, u can see how The hinge broke prematurely due to the branch attachment, example of my paranoi i guess? Also idk what a gob or dog tooth back cut is, entered the google worm hole for a few, left w only frustration.

kriss, im sorry but im having a hard time putting that image together. Also a huge fan of the improvising, and creating the overpriced garbage marketed in society. Golf club bags sound bada$$, i use second hand semi ridged hard bags w the handle, wheels n such for a lot of rope and gear. Also like shitty home made scabbards vs the rattle can plastic silky, or heavy leather, i like weaver, idk why ‘mr weaver’ thinks its cool to put brass rivets where your cutting edge has traffic, and is stored.

paddy! I guess i didnt explain very well.

the house was the original favor, after the branches getting hacked, the stem still heads that way, then dog legs up at maybe 30’. It could be fell as a whole assuming the wood is sound, idt setting back is possible. So i guess my tag

or pull(forget the actuall meanings), would maybe be mostly perpendicular to the intended lay, and would end up being behind the tree during felling. Which probably isnt ideal. I guess my fear is the hinge tearing horizontally, twisting, failing in some way under the weight, due to all the knots. If it did, it could obliterate the house, so a ‘guy’ so to speak? 

Im feeling you on the topping vs home smashing, guess im a little overwhelmed to top such a bigass tree, being it would be the 2nd tree ive ever topped. First being a hand saw....

i was estimating the stem weight around 50k, im sure thats not accurate. Is there an app, site, cheat sheet, etc for est tree weights thats a standard?

lol tree is a monster, if i end up slabbing it down, at some point id imagine id have to rip cut the spar vertically just to move things. Salami cuts sound cool, i dont like the idea of wasting wood tho. Even w shorter slant cuts, maybe impossible to split those rounds up. I could use gerrys ‘steel rod’ trick....

I can do puns too, and i wanna ‘fit in.’ 

 

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