Tarmac Track - Price

[kevinjohnsonmbe]

6 hours ago, Commando said:

Cheers Kev I got me a drum for cleaning all me cider making kit down.
Does it need to be neaters to work on moss?

Not sure what would be best for moss. Neaters prob a bit rich - 50/50 maybe. 
 

It’s like super strength bleach gogs & gloves highly advisable - you’ll feel it if you splashes on arms / face etc. 

[openspaceman]

5 hours ago, kevinjohnsonmbe said:

Not sure what would be best for moss.

 

Iron Sulfate works well on moss in lawns

[Baldbloke]

Rather like Commando, we have a 100 X 3M tar-macadam driveway needing sorted, but ours has actually now degraded worse than his. Ours is also under trees but over an ancient roadway so a good solid base but on a gradient, between higher sides. This has historically suffered from surface water coming off a neighbours field, and because of the lay of the land will be an ongoing issue. My plan was to initially shutter and pour concrete sides ( in sections with expansion joints) with an open U indent to both contain the new driveway peaked surface as well as to ensure the water remains at the sides rather than eating away at where vehicles need to move. The question is whether to renew the surface in more tarmac or to do it in concrete in sections, and whether to pre-prepare it for a ready mix or get our own mixer revved up. One thing that I will be doing is ensuring the centre has a pronounced dome and that the open drainage at the sides is adequate to take the deluges we can experience.

The consensus seem to be that concrete is both harder wearing and sitting at around 2/3rds of the tarmac option. Is this about right?

Also, would the existing tarmac be better somehow removed were we to choose to resurface in concrete, or could concrete be laid over the existing pressure washed stone and tarred surface, and, what would be the preferred joint material to use as expansion joints, as well as the ideal distance between joints?

[Baldbloke]

[Toad]

I looked at the filler material last year after questions about a job of mine. I think that you can either use a hot applied bituminous filler or just sikaflex. We went for sikaflex.

 

There are some dmrb/mchw drawings with the references on and details of the rebar used to link the concrete bays, but I can't find them and as they're motorway construction spec they can be toned down a bit.

[Baldbloke]

Fag packet maths got me to £54k

12 years ago a pot holed farm track on the estate I worked on was quoted 40 k for much the same length of track so given inflation I reckon you’re about spot on with your limited paperwork.

[eggsarascal]

25 minutes ago, Baldbloke said:

 

12 years ago a pot holed farm track on the estate I worked on was quoted 40 k for much the same length of track so given inflation I reckon you’re about spot on with your limited paperwork.

 

T'was roughly, but close enough for an estimate. If your drive was mine and you can get planings I'd scrape it off and get a few lads on rakes and a roller. It would be done in a day.

[Baldbloke]

T'was roughly, but close enough for an estimate. If your drive was mine and you can get planings I'd scrape it off and get a few lads on rakes and a roller. It would be done in a day.

That’s a good suggestion. There’s been a couple of pikeys called around in the past to try and fleece me[emoji3]
I do realise the first job is going to be to ensure there’s an open concrete ditch to hold the sides of the roadway and to ensure the water is off it too.[emoji1303]

[eggsarascal]

6 minutes ago, Baldbloke said:

That’s a good suggestion. There’s been a couple of pikeys called around in the past to try and fleece me
I do realise the first job is going to be to ensure there’s an open concrete ditch to hold the sides of the roadway and to ensure the water is off it too.

If you do go down the planings route try to organise it so the lorrys can get in on the same day to tip the planings as they go, unless you've got the gear to spread yourself. You don't want 20 ton heaps all over the place.

[Baldbloke]

If you do go down the planings route try to organise it so the lorrys can get in on the same day to tip the planings as they go, unless you've got the gear to spread yourself. You don't want 20 ton heaps all over the place.

Got another 120 square metres of concrete harl to remove of a rear wall of the house first as well as a reroof of a steading, so unless it becomes a real problem it might have to wait a bit.