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Tarmac Track - Price


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5 hours ago, Toad said:

As a few others have said, look at the lime stabilisation operations offered for farm tracks. No material out, little material in, decent result.

I thought that was for clay sites? The Plaisance I drove had been used for road crushing before I got to drive it and I was told this included incorporating lime AND/OR OPC

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40 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

I thought that was for clay sites? The Plaisance I drove had been used for road crushing before I got to drive it and I was told this included incorporating lime AND/OR OPC

I think it depends on the exact soil type, as you say OPC can be mixed in too. I've seen like used round here a bit and we are predominantly chalk, also seen it on a highway scheme where it was predominantly rubble under the road. Think it worked out OK there. Just need to be careful of any underground services as the machinery will soon incorporate them into the road base. The highway scheme I saw managed to put the rotovator though the gas main and the electric main in the first 10 metres.

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Wot ever u decide whichever surface the trick for it lasting is not too let water run down it.

 

Wether u put speed ramps in at a diagonal, or trenches, crash barriers. Crash barriers can work well and easy to clean out the silt.

Getting the water off and not letting it run down is the key.

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Another option might just be to carry on really as normal.

 

I seen earlier in thread u had a grader beam guessing for a tractor.

Seen farm roads stay in very good condition just with regular use of a grader.

 

If potholes are already formed, in Oz and NZ where they have thousands and thousands of miles of public gravel roads in the bush.

When I worked on farms out there a grader would drop his ripper teeth down to pot hole depth to loosen it al then a quick grade followed by big vibrating roller, job done.

The worker used to drive his grader towing the vibrating roller towing often towing a tool/Daniel trailer then attached his pick up and caravan and he just drove from job to job totally self sufficient.

Like a bloody road train at times he had that many things attached to grader.

 

Dunno if u have some sort of toothed implement u could rip down to pot hole depth, put grader bar over it a few times then a good roll/whack.

Should stop potholes reforming and saves u constantly buying more hard core/chippings

Which never really works just filling potholes even when we'll rolled.

 

If u ran the grader over it before potholes really developed might not take long at all and keep road fairly tidy for little money and not a lot of work.

Like much maitence little and often before a big problem exists.

Edited by drinksloe
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1 hour ago, Stere said:

Crash barriers?

 

 

Seen them dug into the road daigonally to give u a cundy/channel to throw water off..

Work quite well as almost clean themselves out.

Seen both the W and C profile ones used

Meaning to dig a few into my tracks, at minute just got diagonal channels dug/picked out but amazing how often u have to keep cleaning silt out or else just fill up.

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Have this problem on my drive. Got a digger man in a couple of years ago who did a nice job, but it doesn't last as water runs down the road and people drive too fast. Will try planings next time, but only have narrow access and everyone seems to want to deliver in 26ton loads, i only need about 3 tons as it's not a long drive.

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28 minutes ago, sandspider said:

Have this problem on my drive. Got a digger man in a couple of years ago who did a nice job, but it doesn't last as water runs down the road and people drive too fast. Will try planings next time, but only have narrow access and everyone seems to want to deliver in 26ton loads, i only need about 3 tons as it's not a long drive.

You’ll want more than you think. They are very heavy, and you need enough clean planings for them to bind into a layer else you may as well not bother. 

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Ur problem is water running down it.

I've got some steepish tracks at mine and it's getting diagonal cundys/gullies in to get the water off really makes a massive difference

 

If it's just for potholes I'd go for hardcore/type 1 over plantings I think they pack better.

U can also mix a bit of cement into it and it sets quite good.

I've just tried it for 1st time after ran out off tarmac, filled a big 4-6" deep pothole with hard core cement mix and it's doing well.

Not ideal on a tarmac road but will chip it out in spring next time I have more hot tar.

My dad's does it on the road in front of his house with dust and cement and the pot holes are very good and it gets a lot of use.

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