Stihl MS 261 vs Echo 501SX vs AN Other

[Piston Skirt]

9 hours ago, doobin said:

Which grinders would you recommend? I’ve not found anything better than metabo for  anti vibe, but they are pricey. 

I spent 15 years working for Metabo distributor. Can’t advise objectively as I’m biased even after switching jobs

[coppicer]

On 12/10/2020 at 10:18, coppicer said:

Good point. I didn't on my previous sharpen as it was a relatively new chain, but I did on my most recent sharpen a few days ago and that seemed to help yesterday. It felt better, but still didn't pull that well.

Went out to the shed yesterday and had another go with the Clarke sharpener, trying a slightly different angle. That definitely made an improvement so thanks to @Stubby for suggesting that. I think previously I wasn't getting the wheel down far enough into the curve of the tooth. And perhaps just need more practice with it.

 

One thing I noticed yesterday was that the saw cuts OK when at 90 degrees to the wood, but relatively poorly at an angle, when making the sink cut. Is this something to do with the side plates of the chain?

 

I was looking at the Grandberg sharpener the other day, and it looks as if the cylindrical stone used would make it inherently easier to get into the curve of the tooth than the grinding wheel of the Clarke sharpener. Maybe @Rob D has some thoughts on this, as a seller? 

 

Of course, if my problem with the Clarke is just technique, there's not much point investing in another sharpener. Too many toys already ?

Edited October 15, 2020 by coppicer

[Dan Maynard]

Angled cut is always slower, this is just because you have to cut through all the wood fibres rather than peeling them apart when cross cutting.

[coppicer]

6 hours ago, Dan Maynard said:

Angled cut is always slower, this is just because you have to cut through all the wood fibres rather than peeling them apart when cross cutting.

Wasn't aware of this - learn something every day. However, the saw seems slow relative to what it used to be, sometimes leaves scorch marks in the cut on angled cuts as well. Poor technique, maybe.

Edited October 15, 2020 by coppicer

[Wonky]

It took me some time to learn to sharpen a chain, a rocked chain was almost impossible, that’s where a grinder came in very handy. Although I’ve used it less and less as my filing skills got better.

the trick is to know eggzactly what the chain requires.

 

a dull chain will require more power to cut, which your saw don’t have.

 

my suggestion to you is get a new chain, have a good look at it. Cut one or two Maybe a few cookies.  

check the chips for consistency ie small large etc.
then get a depth gauge check all of them. Some could be a little high right out of the box.  Give them a lick if needed, but be sure They are all the same, use the edge of  your file to  over the gauge to check. Even a tenth of a mm has an effect on the end result.

then give the teeth a lick. Now it’s worth checking how the tooth looks after a lick or two.

try cutting a few more cookies, check the chips.

 

the reason for the checking and being particular, is because after a few times  you will know when you need to give the chain a lick or two, but if you go on cutting it will take more than a lick or two to get it how it should cut like.
 

If you look the top plate edge, and feel the cutter.  That should be enough to know how it will cut. if it don’t cut right, check the depth gauges, if there ok then  it must be the cutters.

 

I could go on but one last thing, chainsaw milling is what makes you particular and getS you  better.?
 

Also seasoned wood is a bit harder to cut.

 

one other thing if you post a pic or two of your cutters, you will get a few answers as to where you need to improve ? 

 

 

 

[doobin]

Honestly, by far the best thing for a semi chisel picco chain is a sharp file. Quicker than messing around with a grinder and easy to put just how much hook you want on.

 

The Grandberg uses diamond stones, which from an engineering standpoint is completely the wrong material to use to try to cut steel with. I alway found it gave a piss poor result with either standard stones or diamond stones. What is needed is a CBN stone, but until then, a file will genuinely be quicker.

[openspaceman]

4 hours ago, coppicer said:

Wasn't aware of this - learn something every day. However, the saw seems slow relative to what it used to be, sometimes leaves scorch marks in the cut on angled cuts as well. Poor technique, maybe.

Something must be blunt to cause a friction burn

[coppicer]

50 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

Something must be blunt to cause a friction burn

I'm going to take a closer look at (and take some photos of) the teeth tomorrow as per Wonky's suggestion. Having said that, it didn't seem to do it this afternoon.

Edited October 15, 2020 by coppicer

[openspaceman]

3 hours ago, Wonky said:

 

If you look the top plate edge, and feel the cutter.

Look at the cutting edge head on in good light, a sharp edge reflects no light.

[coppicer]

Some teeth here. Phone doesn't have a macro feature, so hard to take close-up shots.