What heating system and why

[djbobbins]

What about a billet boiler or similar warming a large buffer tank?
No nothing about the suitability of above system, but supply a customer who is happy with this set up.

Good if you the OP has an adjoining / nearby building to house the boiler and tank. I would have thought it only makes sense price wise against oil (at the moment at least) if the wood is cheap??

For what it’s worth, I have a similar dilemma to the OP, looking at a 70’s detached house which currently has an oil boiler fitted, ceilings are too low to accommodate underfloor insulation and heating. There is space in the garden for a ground source heat loop, but does that give better output temperatures than air source heating?

[donnk]

7 hours ago, djbobbins said:

 

Good if you the OP has an adjoining / nearby building to house the boiler and tank. I would have thought it only makes sense price wise against oil (at the moment at least) if the wood is cheap??

For what it’s worth, I have a similar dilemma to the OP, looking at a 70’s detached house which currently has an oil boiler fitted, ceilings are too low to accommodate underfloor insulation and heating. There is space in the garden for a ground source heat loop, but does that give better output temperatures than air source heating?

 

 

The heat temp isnt a lot different you just get more of it than with air so the COP is better £1 of electric to spin the pump gets you £4/5 of free heat.

 

Taking the floor up does put a lot of people off but if  you do it before you move in (stay in the local prem inn for a week) you will reap the rewards for years. As ive said before fastest is micro digger with a pecker. 2 days should do it easy, then a day to insulate and get loops laid and a day to screed.

 

 

[dumper]

So what happens if you have suspended wooden floors with air bricks and a 750mm void

[openspaceman]

13 minutes ago, dumper said:

So what happens if you have suspended wooden floors with air bricks and a 750mm void

Floorboards up, thin battens stapled to bottom of joists, 75mm celotex (seconds) cut and squeezed down to sit on battens, joints taped with aluminium tape, pipes and trays laid:

 

 

floorboards back down. Make sure airbricks are clear as bottom of joists now sealed from house and must breathe.

 

I've never done it as I laid pipe in screed on top of celotex with a new solid floor.

Edited August 11, 2020 by openspaceman
spelling

[Lazurus]

15 hours ago, andy cobb said:

What about a billet boiler or similar warming a large buffer tank?

No nothing about the suitability of above system, but supply a customer who is happy with this set up.

Wassat

[andy cobb]

1 hour ago, Lazurus said:

Wassat

Think it's an industrial wood burner that'll either take big orrible lumps of wood or long thin bits (billets) , bit like the old straw burners that farm used to have. Unlike the straw burners don't think you can fit a super single tyre in them!

[donnk]

5 hours ago, dumper said:

So what happens if you have suspended wooden floors with air bricks and a 750mm void

then its much cheaper and easier!

[dumper]

House was built late 1800s with solid walls am I chasing a lost cause 

[donnk]

not entirely. It probably wont have a DPC so putting a new slab in with insulation is well worth it. You could when you decorate the rooms, use insulated plasterboard on the outside walls to help things along.

[andy cobb]

22 hours ago, donnk said:

not entirely. It probably wont have a DPC so putting a new slab in with insulation is well worth it. You could when you decorate the rooms, use insulated plasterboard on the outside walls to help things along.

If house is 1800s , best to stay away from gypsum boards and plaster and stick to breathable materials like lime render unless there is room to build a stoothing wall with membrane and air gap.