Waterproof concrete

[Squaredy]

Maybe I can use this on top of the concrete. 

Damp Proof Membrane 5L

WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM

---

Water based rubberised bitumen emulsion for internal and external use. Can be used on walls and floors to prevent...

Anyone done that?

 

Then perhaps followed by screed I guess?  Or even just floorboards etc straight on top.

[waterbuoy]

1 hour ago, Johnsond said:

Buy a roll of visqueen and once you have levelled and sorted the base put this down and everything thereafter goes on top of that, that’s no more than you will ever see done on sites. 150-200mm of decent concrete on top of a membrane you will have no probs. The timber structure no doubt will be on it own timber sole plates which you can also put a dpc in between those  and the concrete. 

Wot he said - but give it time to cure before putting anything on top of it.

 

The bitumen type products tend to cause more by way of condensation IMHO

[Johnsond]

24 minutes ago, Squaredy said:

Maybe I can use this on top of the concrete. 

Damp Proof Membrane 5L

WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM

---

Water based rubberised bitumen emulsion for internal and external use. Can be used on walls and floors to prevent...

Anyone done that?

 

Then perhaps followed by screed I guess?  Or even just floorboards etc straight on top.

Wouldn’t bother with any of that 

build a decent base with a good membrane below it. Let it go off and then put some good treated sole plates down with a dpc between those and  the concrete base. I have used decent Hili  anchor bolts to secure the sole plates with good results ( don’t rush ref the drilling as you need the concrete to be pretty hard rather  than green so 2-3 days min curing time) Then just crack on with the build, good airflow under and through the base of the structure to avoid dampness will do more for longevity than overthinking the concrete base. If you are building from scratch try and make sure the rain run off does not lie on the concrete base ie have an overlap at edges to allow rain to fall clear of base or good guttering helps. 

Edited May 16, 2020 by Johnsond

[dig-dug-dan]

The plastic is laid under the concrete to prevent a phenomenon called plastic cracking. It's where the ground sucks the moisture for the poured concrete faster than the curing rate allows for, and will cause cracks to appear in the top layers. You can simply fill these cracks with neat cement brushes in, but it's not ideal

[spuddog0507]

Yes visqueen down first and if tou wanted to put a waterproofing agent in the concreat mix there is several about, Freeflow is one that has a good name and when mixed at the correct proportions is very good, there was one called Medusa, made by Feb and it is a powder that you add to the mix, all the old school boys swear by it, but not sure if it is still available,

Steel reienforcing ? why steel, i do a bit of work with a groundworks lad now and then and have done so for thirty odd years, he does a lot of stable bases and i generally end up there with him, we used to use steel but we have not used steel for 7 or 8 years now, we get what is called as fibber mix which is what it is concrete with 1000s of fibbers in it and if its good enough for airport runways its good enough for us, one big advantage with fibbermix is, there is no steel mesh to go arse over tit when you get your foot stuck in it and fibber mix dont go rusty,

[Ratman]

Visqueen then slab as above, if your bothered about your corners that you mentioned, which i’m guessing is because you dont want creases etc, then cut your visqueen square in to the corners and stick them together with some butyl tape. Its sticky as hell and waterproof/non permeable, i swear by it, used it on all my slab jobs [emoji106]

[Squaredy]

Thanks guys for the input again.  I was aware of fibre added to the mix, but didn't realise it was really strong enough.  The slab will have no vehicles or major weight on, I just felt due to size it might be sensible to reinforce.  Would be much easier not to bother with the steel.

[Stere]

Not gonna put any insulation in floor?

 

Seen someone using it for there shed floor suppose to make big difference.

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by Stere

[Squaredy]

1 hour ago, Stere said:

Not gonna put any insulation in floor?

 

Seen someone using it for there shed floor suppose to make big difference.

 

I know it would be good to do so, but trying to keep it simple.  The building must be dry, but as long as I can avoid the worst of the heat and cold that will be fine.  The finished building will not have a TV or computer in, so not for lounging around in - snooker is a very active sport as we all know

[bobyboys]

additives can be added to make conc into a DPC layer as some builds use this as the DPC where plastic cannot be used.

 

 

------------------------------

abc