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Posted
54 minutes ago, monkeybusiness said:

G-couplers are brill, but can be too big to get on some nipples. You then need 2 guns or accept that you are going to get messy swapping the coupler for a standard one.

Saying that, a short flexible grease hose with a nipple on one end (to attach to the g-coupler) and a standard connector on the other would solve that issue. I’m going to get a couple - can’t believe I hadn’t thought of it before!

Can be more faff than you think. I gave up, kept popping off in awkward spots.

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Posted

At work we use the Milwaukee m18. Have the grease gun and the stubby 3/8 impact wrench with the 5amp batteries. I've got the makita stuff my self I find the grinder draind the 5 amp batteries you'll be better getting a 6amp. The makita 1002z is a big gun in your hands and has amazing nut busting torque but if you dont need all that I'd go for a 285. 

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Posted

A mate of mine who is a fitter locks his tool box and shed up every night using an impact gun on several bolts using  wheel security  nuts off a toyota rav 4  and has never been broken in to ...his brother uses the same idea to lock his trailer and motorbike up !!!  

Posted

When I first used my

makita grease gun I used 2 cartridges on the 3cx, as time goes on I use just the 1 full 1.

 I have it on the impact drill, when it clicks then there’s resistance so I stop.

  It’s out of ease with 1 hand so I can hold the end on and when I’m on my back doing the under carriage it’s much easier on my back.

  

Posted

Another vote for a G-coupler. Got one after a recommend on here and would never go back

 

Very happy with my Dewalt Impact wrench. Went for the smaller one as it's up to the nuts and bolts I do and light enough to use for heavy duty coach screws

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Stephen Blair said:

When I first used my

makita grease gun I used 2 cartridges on the 3cx, as time goes on I use just the 1 full 1.

 I have it on the impact drill, when it clicks then there’s resistance so I stop.

  It’s out of ease with 1 hand so I can hold the end on and when I’m on my back doing the under carriage it’s much easier on my back.

  

How do you rate the Makita gun? Does it ever give trouble? Can you tell if grease is going in the fitting or whether it's airlocked?

Posted
1 hour ago, Woodworks said:

Another vote for a G-coupler. Got one after a recommend on here and would never go back

 

Very happy with my Dewalt Impact wrench. Went for the smaller one as it's up to the nuts and bolts I do and light enough to use for heavy duty coach screws

 

For coach screws, you want sustained torque. Use a drill and 1/2" adaptor.

 

Impact wrenches provide jolts of torque. Great for breaking loose rusted fittings with jolts of more torque than a drill can provide, and not snapping your arm off. Impact drivers use the same principle to prevent cam-out when driving PZ screws.

 

Try a drill- it's twice as quick, honestly. The big Makita drills come with a massive left hand brace, which is ace for driving coach screws or mixing cement in buckets.

Posted
For coach screws, you want sustained torque. Use a drill and 1/2" adaptor.
 
Impact wrenches provide jolts of torque. Great for breaking loose rusted fittings with jolts of more torque than a drill can provide, and not snapping your arm off. Impact drivers use the same principle to prevent cam-out when driving PZ screws.
 
Try a drill- it's twice as quick, honestly. The big Makita drills come with a massive left hand brace, which is ace for driving coach screws or mixing cement in buckets.

A drill won't put lag bolts, coach bolts or screws into oak,
I've ruined hundreds of screws trying.
Even pilot holed, you end up tearing the top off.
Never had that issue since I bought an 18v impact driver.
[emoji106]
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