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Nose sprocket jamming.


chilli
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Clearly you are in one of your mischievous moods :sneaky2:

 

The point I was trying to make was, if you had asked me if I oiled a new bar, I would have said no, but because I always oil a new chain and always put a new chain on a new bar, in actual fact I do always oil a new bar.

 

I was just wondering if you were the same :001_smile:

 

i thought everybody did it that way :thumbup1:

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Ringing up a horse chestnut trunk with a 441 & 25" (new) bar. Four times in quick succession the nose sprocket seized solid & stalled the chain. Was cutting at full depth. Bit of a pain having to stop & free up/ clean out the sprocket. Could it have been that the chain couldn't clear the chips quick enough on a full cut?

Could it be a lack of lubrication? There is no grease hole so it would have to be a lack of chain oil. Any ideas chaps?

 

the paint on a new bar does not help

but as a point you very rarely need to clean out the sprocket

hard to explain but will try

if it gets clogged up on the edge of a big log or stump but a tooth thats near middle of chain and pull it backwards and should reverse a bit the further the better then full rev it and it should go round and clear debris

sometimes a couple of goes required

hope that makes sense as i know what i mean

 

 

would of said buy a husky but that would of been childish:blushing:

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Never pr oiled a bar or chain, and i have just changed a bar that was years old only coz the width of the grooves had increased a load. I am certain that i was told on my cs30 that you either always grease the bar nose or never- but dont start greasing it then stop or vice-versa.

 

Is there any point in 'bedding in' a bar and chain as the bar will see loads of chains before it is worn out, and i am sure you have several loops for each bar made up anyway dont you?:confused1::001_smile:

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Is there any point in 'bedding in' a bar and chain as the bar will see loads of chains before it is worn out, and i am sure you have several loops for each bar made up anyway dont you?:confused1::001_smile:

 

Each chain will be bedded in, in the manor I described when new and left on till its buggered

 

I NEVER take a chain of unless its knackered. I fit a chain (in the manor I have described) and then use it till its done. IME its quicker (and more cost effective) to sharpen a chain than change it.

 

I must be very quick at sharpening chains OR very slow at changing them?? I'll you decide which:sneaky2:

 

Another advantage to putting extra oil on a new chain, is you need to rev the saw and get the chain bedded in order for you to tension the chain correctly, just putting the chain on with out oil, then reving it would IMO over heat the chain, causing expansion, if you then tension the chain you risk it being over tight once it cools.

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Each chain will be bedded in, in the manor I described when new and left on till its buggered

 

I NEVER take a chain of unless its knackered. I fit a chain (in the manor I have described) and then use it till its done. IME its quicker (and more cost effective) to sharpen a chain than change it.

 

I must be very quick at sharpening chains OR very slow at changing them?? I'll you decide which:sneaky2:

 

Another advantage to putting extra oil on a new chain, is you need to rev the saw and get the chain bedded in order for you to tension the chain correctly, just putting the chain on with out oil, then reving it would IMO over heat the chain, causing expansion, if you then tension the chain you risk it being over tight once it cools.

 

That all makes perfect sense to me Mr S.:001_smile:

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