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Anyone done hit and miss boarding on a shed?


Woodworks
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Just fixing up an old barn and the cladding is knackered. Wanting maximum ventilation but don't want driving rain getting in. Heard that hit and miss boarding is about the best way to achieve this. Not sure how thick the boards should be or the best material but guessing larch would be a safe bet. Any feedback on the above good or bad would be much appreciated. 

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40 minutes ago, Woodworks said:

Just fixing up an old barn and the cladding is knackered. Wanting maximum ventilation but don't want driving rain getting in. Heard that hit and miss boarding is about the best way to achieve this. Not sure how thick the boards should be or the best material but guessing larch would be a safe bet. Any feedback on the above good or bad would be much appreciated. 

we do it now and then 100 x 22mm treated boards, set both corners up measure the gap between and work out how many 125mm spaces available and dont forget to add a extra 25mm on, usually 25mm gap but it dont allways work like that just done some on a log store and gap worked out at 35mm gap would be fine ant where between 25-50mm ,

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3 hours ago, Woodworks said:

Just fixing up an old barn and the cladding is knackered. Wanting maximum ventilation but don't want driving rain getting in. Heard that hit and miss boarding is about the best way to achieve this. Not sure how thick the boards should be or the best material but guessing larch would be a safe bet. Any feedback on the above good or bad would be much appreciated. 

Here is a bit of lateral thinking.....how about horizontal waney (or square) edge cladding (Larch or DF) but with short wedges (say 200mm long and 25mm thick tapering down to say 6mm) cleverly positioned where they overlap so that each board is sticking out at the bottom and the boards do not touch.

 

Not sure I have worded that well but what I am picturing will look solid from the side but will be full of air gaps if you look up at it from the outside.  Like a waney edge louvre effect.  Might need a little bit of inventiveness to get it right but it would give great ventilation and keep all the rain off even when windy.

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7 hours ago, spuddog0507 said:

we do it now and then 100 x 22mm treated boards, set both corners up measure the gap between and work out how many 125mm spaces available and dont forget to add a extra 25mm on, usually 25mm gap but it dont allways work like that just done some on a log store and gap worked out at 35mm gap would be fine ant where between 25-50mm ,

Almost exactly how I did the spacing on my fire wood shed- rain still drives in on wood that is up against the slats, I have it so that the hit and miss boards alternate on either side of the timber uprights, so that there is a 100mm void between the loga and the outside. I also added a fine mesh on the inside of the shed which helps dampen the real horizontal rain from blowing in. 

Edited by Matthew Storrs
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I have the 125mm boards with a 25mm gap then a second layer on top, the same boards but straddling the gaps on my wood shed and the rain and snow still blows in - it will do as you want the wind to blow in but sometimes that wind is going to be laden with wet snow! 

The wood gets wet sometimes but dries out quickly.

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Thanks all. Looking at Mathews remarks I may just stick with recovering the side with the old corrugated that's coming off the roof. There is some ventilation in there anyway and one end is completely open. The barn is used for sheep handling and storing already dry logs so ventilation is not critical but more the better but defiantly don't want rain blowing in. Wish snow was an issue but other than last winter not had any horizontal snow of significance for decades!

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I take it hit and miss boarding is wot i'd call vertical boarding (ranch style tunred 90)?

 

U can use any width of board u want really and thickness would depend on how strong u need it and how far apart the timber  rails are. be easy to have ur inside boards thicker than outside so u can stack logs against them

Normal spacing would be a board width but u can easy bring the spacing in which should help stop any rain.

Normally on a fence it would be 4" boards with a 3" gap sometimes even down to 2" for extra privacy and thats on a 11/2" rail

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I made a simple fence to go across my drive, its what i call hit and miss boarding, you may agree or not? Was £60 for everything, but allows the wind to go through it, but driving rain doesn’t, i end up with a dry spot behind the fence, (until natural forces and spread of water occurs) i’ll be cladding my log store in the same way when i build it on to the rear of my garage. Looks neat and tidy too. IMG_0526.jpg

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