Today's milling

[trigger_andy]

3 minutes ago, Johnsond said:

Was asked to resize some old dry Elm for a mate ??. I’m no expert on Timber characteristics as it ages but certainly did not expect it to be so hard, it was destroying ripper 37 blades like they were made of plastic. One of those favours I had to finish but definitely an eye opener and a wood to avoid in the future, unless there is a specific blade,tooth,angle etc for it ??. 

Sounds like its gonna cost you a small fortune for this favour.  

 

The link below is worth a look. Ripper Blades are 10 degree, a good all rounder. 

 

Can the profile of the blade be easily changed? Ie if there blades are on their last or second to last sharpen I wonder if its posible to change them from between 4-7 degrees and hold them back for such jobs as this? 

 

Stephen Cull would be the man to ask. 

 

 

How To Choose a Sawmill Blade Profile | Wood-Mizer USA

WOODMIZER.COM

 

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by trigger_andy

[Rough Hewn]

Generally I turn down resaw jobs.
Nearly every one has gone wrong.
Nails,bolts etc.
Or just wood so hard it dulls the chain teeth before finishing the cut on big stuff.
Got one in two weeks to resaw some big elm slabs.
Taking lots of spare sharp chains.
[emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

Was asked to resize some old dry Elm for a mate [emoji15][emoji15]. I’m no expert on Timber characteristics as it ages but certainly did not expect it to be so hard, it was destroying ripper 37 blades like they were made of plastic. One of those favours I had to finish but definitely an eye opener and a wood to avoid in the future, unless there is a specific blade,tooth,angle etc for it ??. 

Logosol do a carbide tipped bandsaw blade.
No sharpening, just use it til it dies.
Will cut through nearly anything apparently.
[emoji106]

[Macpherson]

4 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Or just wood so hard it dulls the chain teeth

Have you ever tried dribbling water from a garden hose through the kerf kind of like treating the wood as if it were metal you were cutting very dry stuff.....I mean you would never try to cut metal on a machine without lubricant / coolant.

Normally when you cut wood with a saw it already contains about 30% h2o.

 

It may of course not always be practical but from my engineering background to me at least it's logical, I recon that when I've tried this the chain kept sharp for longer, although waterproofs are required.

 

TCT blades are easily and cheaply sharpened btw.....Cheers.

[trigger_andy]

Logosol do a carbide tipped bandsaw blade.
No sharpening, just use it til it dies.
Will cut through nearly anything apparently.
[emoji106]

I think they are Bacho? Could be worth looking on their site as Logosol will most likely stock Logosol Sizes?

Thinking about hard dry wood I’m planning on re-sawing dry Ash Slabs. [emoji33] Guess I need to look into Carbide blades or some frozen timber ones.

[Rough Hewn]

Have you ever tried dribbling water from a garden hose through the kerf kind of like treating the wood as if it were metal you were cutting very dry stuff.....I mean you would never try to cut metal on a machine without lubricant / coolant.
Normally when you cut wood with a saw it already contains about 30% h2o.
 
It may of course not always be practical but from my engineering background to me at least it's logical, I recon that when I've tried this the chain kept sharp for longer, although waterproofs are required.
 
TCT blades are easily and cheaply sharpened btw.....Cheers.

I live in Yorkshire.
Everything is wet all the time.
[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️[emoji299]️
???[emoji106]

[The avantgardener]

On 06/11/2020 at 11:40, Johnsond said:

Was asked to resize some old dry Elm for a mate ??. I’m no expert on Timber characteristics as it ages but certainly did not expect it to be so hard, it was destroying ripper 37 blades like they were made of plastic. One of those favours I had to finish but definitely an eye opener and a wood to avoid in the future, unless there is a specific blade,tooth,angle etc for it ??. 

 I worked for a guy who used to re saw large volumes of reclaimed timber from Dibnah’s mill demolitions, mostly Pitch Pine and Douglas, but we milled just about everything else also.

The bandsaw was a Forestor with 4” blades. It had a container filled with diluted diesel and a swab that coated the blade the entire time, it certainly did improve the life of the blade and improved the cut whilst in operation.

Dry Elm is like concrete.

[Forest2Furniture]

I milled some Burr Oak for the first time last week, very pleased with the results.

7 pairs of book-matched boards

[trigger_andy]

Just now, Forest2Furniture said:

I milled some Burr Oak for the first time last week, very pleased with the results.

7 pairs of book-matched boards

Damn! I think they’re the best looking slabs I’ve seen on here to date! Bet they bring in a pretty penny. 

[dudders]

Jeez that's beautiful timber.  Can't work out how it went - was that an ancient stub, or is it a cross-section or what?  Looks like it was the stub of a branch that withered away at the end.