Advanced chain sharpening.

[openspaceman]

45 minutes ago, Joe Newton said:

I tend to just file down into the tie straps rather than downsize files.

I would always change from 7/32 to a 3/16 file when half way through a .404 or 3/8 chain but stick with 3/16 for .325 chain. I did try the smaller 5/32 and 4.5mm files  as the tooth of the .325 got worn but as I file freehand with no guide I was forever snapping these. This is why I do use a file guide when doing low profile and 1/4" chains.

 

I don't think I have snapped a tie strap weakened by filing as when I have broken a chain it tended to be on the heel of a cutter or drive link on the rivet hole.

[Rough Hewn]

Does anyone have a husqvarna large saw instructions manual?
Does it have a chain sharpening section anyone could post up?
Same goes for echo, maculloch, Oregon or any other brands.
[emoji106]

[Husqvarna King]

I drop a size on 3/8 for the last quarter of the cutter. Works a treat. Have done 11/64 or whatever it is on 3/16 but usually just stick with the 3/16. I recently saw that Buckin Billy Ray had made a video showing just what your asking about ?"friends" ?

Edited October 9, 2018 by Husqvarna King

[Baldbloke]

My chains get used until the teeth are accross the cutting face are barely there. I still keep them for low stump work and riverbanks.

A proficient sharpener should get an equally good cut until the chain is down toward its bones. I too have experimented in the past by using smaller files for the last gasp to avoid filing into the side plates? 

[Husqvarna King]

 

[Macpherson]

Seems logical that the main thing that effects the cutting of any material is that the cutting edge is prepared in such a way as to optimise the cutting of the material being cut. 

A fact that's extremely important in the cutting of metal for instance, where tool speed, tool design, angle of cut, lubrication and sharpening vary enormously depending on the material being machined..... you can't really get away with getting it being wrong......

 

and although wood is much more forgiving, imo a chain sharpened to cut soggy spruce efficiently  is not the same as the chain I'd want to cut dry seasoned hardwood like oak for instance.

 

So although the variables when cutting wood as opposed to metal are more subtle, at the end of the day the principals of the design and speed of the cutting edge are the only thing that's important in the cutting of any material, cheers.

[Khriss]

I go up a file size on dead wood / elm, down one on softwoods, carves out chip better or is more durable cutter angle. This is from my experience turning / machining brass , cast iron , mild steel which all specify different cutting /clearance angles on tool tips. If Stihl don't recognise this , that's odd. K

[Stubby]

21 minutes ago, Khriss said:

I go up a file size on dead wood / elm, down one on softwoods, carves out chip better or is more durable cutter angle. This is from my experience turning / machining brass , cast iron , mild steel which all specify different cutting /clearance angles on tool tips. If Stihl don't recognise this , that's odd. K

All the " time served " tool makers are popping out of the woodwork now with " top rake , front clearance , side clearance , coolant cutting speed etc etc " ?

[Khriss]

.........eeeee ! An I remmber when aaaall this were fields and Doctor Who was worth watching K

[Stere]

Anyone use skip chains for softwood?