Rescue from a single line

[Joe Newton]

2 hours ago, billpierce said:

On a compromised rope I was taught to just use a prussoc loop to clip the injured onto my bridge and let them dangle off that once disconnected from their line. Don't climb srt so not familiar with whether that would work joe?

That would work mate, but on either system that's not ideal. Current best practice is to have two connections. The harness to harness one that you mentioned would be a secondary, with the primary attachment being a prussik or similar from the rescuers standing part of his rope to the casualty, taking the weight and allowing for better positioning of the casualty.

 

That is the part srt doesn't seem to allow for. Of course the reality is that in a pinch we'd use whatever works. 

[Mark Bolam]

2nd rope for me Joe, as the lads have said, enabling standard Ddrt rescue scenario.

Take it up with you or have it sent up.

[Joe Newton]

9 minutes ago, Mark Bolam said:

2nd rope for me Joe, as the lads have said, enabling standard Ddrt rescue scenario.

Take it up with you or have it sent up.

 Yeah figures. To be fair if you're mates pumping claret you're just going to connect them and get down sharpish. Two crabs would do it. 

[Swampster]

In line rescue or industrial access single static lines are the norm. Rescuing a conscious or unconscious casualty is done by attaching the cas. to you (the rescuer), lower them onto your system with their system until they are completely reliant on your support. Then you release them from their system and descend.

There are tiny haul setups available (casualty pully system) to allow one person to lift the cas. off their descender and allow a more managed transfer, but you need to carry this with you. Worth training for it as it is quite different, especially if your with people who don't do SRT.

[peds]

On 15/09/2018 at 22:37, Joe Newton said:

 Yeah figures. To be fair if you're mates pumping claret you're just going to connect them and get down sharpish. Two crabs would do it. 

A lad on my course failed his CS38 because of that, "metal-on-metal"... although to be fair, he failed for several other things as well. He put his spikes on the wrong feet at first.

 

Personally, as a rock climber, I see metal-on-metal all the time and didn't see what the problem is... not that I questioned the assessor about it. If two biners are likely to twist enough for shearing forces to come into play, sure, but I don't see how that is possible when joining two climbers together.

Edited October 14, 2018 by peds

[Mr. Squirrel]

Never actually practised an srt rescue but I can see advances to it, being able to redirect straight onto the casualty without having to be concerned about rope drag etc. 

Figure of 8 below hitch and you're cooking. Simples, no? 

Edited October 20, 2018 by Mr. Squirrel

[Joe Newton]

16 hours ago, Mr. Squirrel said:

Never actually practised an srt rescue but I can see advances to it, being able to redirect straight onto the casualty without having to be concerned about rope drag etc. 

Figure of 8 below hitch and you're cooking. Simples, no? 

 The question was about transferring a casualty onto your system. You can connect them to your bridge but there's no way of transferring them onto your climbing line like you learn to do on a doubled rope rescue

[Mr. Squirrel]

38 minutes ago, Joe Newton said:

 The question was about transferring a casualty onto your system. You can connect them to your bridge but there's no way of transferring them onto your climbing line like you learn to do on a doubled rope rescue

Aaha, my bad then. Tbh I can't remember ever transferring a casualty onto my climbing line. Guess that'd be using a prussik just above your splice/termination knot? 

I do anual refresher training on rescues and practice them throughout the year and always go bridge to bridge. Fast and simple. 

I suppose if you were using a hitch climber pulley you could maybe put them onto a spare hole. However it could cause it to sit at an odd angle. 

[Andrew McEwan]

On 21/10/2018 at 15:44, Joe Newton said:

 The question was about transferring a casualty onto your system. You can connect them to your bridge but there's no way of transferring them onto your climbing line like you learn to do on a doubled rope rescue

Two lines are obviously much better but if you want a 'single line transfer to your line method' this works well, but only on shorter srt set ups, hitch hiker, rig, tazlov2 etc, but may be useful if you set it well and have long arms with a wrench, or ascend via wrench and then switch to a fig 8 to rescue

1. Shorten bridge if possible

2. Extend bridge with short sling with overhand knot at two thirds of it's length

3. Clip friction device across knot so you have the short tail of the sling hanging free, but so you can still control descent and neck tether etc still works for ascent

4. Attach casualty to tail of sling, (if set up well they will hang across you lap, or inbetween your legs if you knot sling at mid point) and harness to harness with quickdraw, transfer weight and release their system, then depending on device you may need to add friction, and descend.

Although weight limits given on devices above mean they're not rated for two, I've found no issues with function or needing extra friction with 2x~80kg men, at your own risk of course if you want to try it.

[drinksloe]

On 14/10/2018 at 22:26, peds said:

A lad on my course failed his CS38 because of that, "metal-on-metal"... although to be fair, he failed for several other things as well. He put his spikes on the wrong feet at first.

 

Personally, as a rock climber, I see metal-on-metal all the time and didn't see what the problem is... not that I questioned the assessor about it. If two biners are likely to twist enough for shearing forces to come into play, sure, but I don't see how that is possible when joining two climbers together.

 

I may be wrong but thought the metal to metal was to do with being able to cut yourself or someelse free in a rescue situation.

Like u can't have a grilion on ur strop straight onto ur harness.

If all there wieght was on a carb/strop u might not be able to lift the wieght off and unbuckle/clip the device, if rope involved u just cut it away after seured to urself

 

Must admit haven't a scooby about all that srt stuff and the gadets that go with it.

 

I take it u can't srt up with a base anchor/tie off, then when u get to casualty strop in, if someone below u untie anchor, and just tie a bowline etc in end and ur on a normal climbing set up.

 

Not that i climb much nowadays (esp commercially) for a rescue scenerio rightly or wrongly i'd prob just spike up the tree stroping/roping in and set rope up from top (but againnever done srt so no idea how much quickier that would be)

 

Swampster do a lot of rope access boys not climb with 2 lines a working line and  safety line?

Edited October 25, 2018 by drinksloe