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Saw pulling left - not bar, chain or user


Bloom
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If the rakers were uneven hieght would that cause the cut to go wonky.

Cutters cutting deeper on 1 side than other??

 

I know i had this problem years ago when i dislocated 2 fingers couldn't grip the files right in 1 hand so couldn't get enough pressure on to sharpen the chain evenly, ended up giving it loads of rubs with my wek hand to compensate

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6 hours ago, Khriss said:

Thats true Devon T - but in an area like ours , daily bashing throu' bramble full of rubbish , track scrap metal , old cutting discs - the saving does mount up , Highways stuff is similar hard on chains , K

 

Did u not used to get specail chains that were treate with something, tungsten?? that held they're edge better.

I remeber cutting with an old boy who used them, we were doing mainly respacing work in soft woods which was again quite hard on chains.

 

Someone i was on site with recently was on about a new chain out which is expensive but doesn't blunt easily but u have to get it specially sharpened. Must admit i'd never heard of it

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1 hour ago, drinksloe said:

 

Did u not used to get specail chains that were treate with something, tungsten?? that held they're edge better.

I remeber cutting with an old boy who used them, we were doing mainly respacing work in soft woods which was again quite hard on chains.

 

Someone i was on site with recently was on about a new chain out which is expensive but doesn't blunt easily but u have to get it specially sharpened. Must admit i'd never heard of it

Yep tungsten carbide chains

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yer HTB & Drinks , Stihl Duro , a tungsten sliver on them , but need special sharpening and never as good as standard carbon steel teeth ( Butchers choice for a blade steel ) so can't be sharpened on the job . A good chain spare in yr tool box fr a dirty old stump cut-down , K

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On 15/03/2018 at 08:30, Bloom said:

Pics below of the setup pulling left. 

 

I changed the bar to a husky one with a new Rototech chain. Got me through a days work.

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Thanks for posting the pictures but unfortunately there isnt enough info there. What I was looking for was to make sure the chain matched the bar and to see that the chain was sharp (no offence and its hard not to sound condescending but the chain is usually the issue 99%  of the time) A lot of the time people look at the top of the chain but not the sides, if the chrome is damaged on the sides the saw will cut like a banana, if the bar is damaged usually the saw just jams up in the cut.

 

I would put the husky bar back on and fit a new husky or oregon chain, I bet that would sort out the issues.

 

 

It isnt worth skrimiping on the condition or quality of the chain. It is IMO the most important part of the machine. It is the contact between the machine and the timber, it doesnt matter how powerful the saw is if the chain isnt any good you will get poor results every time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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