Don't forget your Anvils

[woody paul]

would an arc welder and a normal 6013 rod work ok for refacing the anvil ??

thanks carl

 

If the part is available off the shelf probably cheaper than welding and re-grinding edge back.

[hamdogg]

I'm wanting to tackle the anvils on my tw150!

Any advice and guidance will be appreciated!?

[Mick Dempsey]

I did mine a while back, relatively easy.

 

Hopper off, easy enough (after unclipping the electrics) though you'll need a hand to slide it off the threaded bar.

Roller box off, after unclipping hydraulic hoses (mark which is which)

Then the anvil is right there, the hardest part might be undoing the torque nuts.

[njc110381]

When I started out with my first chipper I didn't even know about the anvil. It chipped ok and I always kept my blades spotless according to the people who did the sharpens. Then one day I read about it, so figured that for what they cost, I'd change it. What a revelation! I couldn't believe how much difference it made!

 

Thinking about it, you wouldn't just sharpen one side of a pair of scissors... Same thing really. It really is worth doing no matter how hard it is. On my little Entec Trukloder it was dead easy. No feed rollers to contend with.

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Anvil change in Jo Beau M500 made a colossal difference. Need to do it in the TP200 but not sure they make them anymore...

[aspenarb]

I did mine a while back, relatively easy.

 

Hopper off, easy enough (after unclipping the electrics) though you'll need a hand to slide it off the threaded bar.

Roller box off, after unclipping hydraulic hoses (mark which is which)

Then the anvil is right there, the hardest part might be undoing the torque nuts.

 

 

Mick the area the arrow is pointing to can be problematic, wear in this area causes the wood to splinter and get dragged in around the corner unchipped ( long wispy bits). It gets missed by the knives and anvil , its well worth getting this built up with weld while its in bits. Hard surface rods would be best, never understood why TW never took the anvil up that side, its as bigger wear factor as the anvil itself and its made of chocolate.

 

Bob

 

[Mick Dempsey]

Ahhhh, thanks Bob, whilst replacing the anvil improved it, it did still produce wispy stringy bits which confused me, now I know why.

 

Good spot.

 

Machine sold now btw.

[htb]

Mick the area the arrow is pointing to can be problematic, wear in this area causes the wood to splinter and get dragged in around the corner unchipped ( long wispy bits). It gets missed by the knives and anvil , its well worth getting this built up with weld while its in bits. Hard surface rods would be best, never understood why TW never took the anvil up that side, its as bigger wear factor as the anvil itself and its made of chocolate.

 

Bob

 

Is that not what the second smaller anvil is for, it wears quite badly as well

[Mick Dempsey]

I think some machines did have two anvils, I remember talking to orange plant when I ordered the anvil and they were going on about it. I didn't really understand what they were talking about and fitted the bottom one only.

 

There is/was no second anvil there, unless I'm mistaken. Can you tell from the photo HTB?

[htb]

I know mine is on the inside of the rotor box, held by 2 countersunk allen bolts which come from the feed roller side. they should be visible at 20 past the hour position just below the rotor bearing in the picture. It is about 4" by 1 1/2". What age is yours mine is 2006/7. I cannot see it in the picture maybe not fitted to all years