njc110381
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Everything posted by njc110381
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Very late, but I think that could have been me. It works great. Just don't stall the tractor because getting it out is a right laugh!
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Swaged? It's compacted during manufacture so doesn't crush as easily. I've been wondering about that. Thanks.
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Pull is 5.5 tons, capacity is 75m. I think due to the design of the winch (it has a level wind system) it needs to use steel rope of 12mm otherwise it will wear the rope very quickly and also not lay it on the drum properly.
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Hi guys. I've just picked up a Werner F56 for my mog, but it doesn't come with a cable. The level wind is set up to work with 12mm but that's about all I know. I'm new to this and haven't a clue what sort of cable to fit to it? I thought I'd just go online and find winch rope but not so, there are about a dozen different strand types just on the one website I've looked at! 6 strand, 26 strand, 37 strand, plastic infill or no plastic infill. Twist resistant or not? Most seem to have a pretty similar breaking load of between 12-14t at 12mm. I guess twisting doesn't matter much when pulling logs? Picking something very durable I would think is my priority and galvanised to avoid corrosion, but they all say they're very durable. Is one type likely to spring and throw itself around less than another if it snaps? I'm baffled so if anyone could explain it to me in simple terms I'd be really grateful!
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Hi guys. I need a new mower again! Currently looking at Etesia, the 46 pro model of some sort. I'm looking for user reviews please - most of us use our kit hard so I'm sure there will be a few of you who have loved or hated yours?! I'd be very grateful for some feedback.
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Right, just looked at their site. It's reminded me why my subconscious had steered me away from the Kaaz. Solid machine for sure, we had one for a while but we sold it again. Why? That silly blade clutch lever! Fine on a left turn but on a right turn you have to reach right over the bars to keep the blade running as the blade lever is only on the one side rather than all across. That did it for me. I used it for a month and was sick of it! Not a huge issue but enough of a silly niggle for me to decide I wasn't playing any more. The Kubota has also added the handle brace like that fitted to the newer Honda's. The Kaaz under heavy use will probably experience the handle wobble that used to appear on the older Honda's. Too much pressure on too small an area and the bolt holes open up.
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I had wondered about the Kubota being one of the Kaaz machines. It looks very much like the old Honda which all of those are based upon. To be honest all that does is increase my confidence. The old Honda's were proper solid. Until a few years ago I was mowing my ex boss's lawn with one from the 70's. I think it had needed a new drive at some stage but besides that it ran like a new mower!
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I need it to do both ideally. Some of the customers don't want to pay for a regular cut but like it short. The best mulcher in the world couldn't make it tidy because the way the lawn is maintained is all wrong. The customer is always right, even when they're not!
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Has anyone used a Toro? I had a little mulching ride on when I first started out which although it didn't feel all that solid, just refused to give up. The one I'm looking at is a 22157 Proline.
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A big local dealer has a good range. All the ones I'm considering in stock. I might have to drive over and have a look. From the catalogue, the Viking MB756GS looks nice. Blade clutch, big box and variable speed. I'll have to see if I can find more info re. the mulching as I have a couple of lawns that I don't collect.
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So the locking drive wheels when you try to pull back the HRX is an expensive fix? One of ours has just stared playing that game. I say just - it's been doing it for a season now on the odd occasion. I'm going to have a closer look at the Viking machines now. I wouldn't have even considered them until they were mentioned here. I thought Viking was Stihl's "toy" range! Edit.... I hate the look of the handles! Or should I say handle? It's one sided! Not sure about that!
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Interesting re. the Honda HRX transmission. The chap I sub for has two and they are beginning to grumble a bit. You can feel they're not quite right. I'll pass that info on! I'm not against spending a grand or so. Possibly a bit more. The Etesia pushes my limits somewhat at over £2k for one with a blade clutch. That may be a little steep. Mowers are a tough one but one thing I know is that I've used cheap in the past and it's not fun. I tend to liken it to driving from Cornwall to Scotland on a moped or in a Merc or even a Rolls. You don't really need the Rolls, but I'm bloody sure I wouldn't be doing it on a moped! Some money needs to be spent both to make better use of time and for user comfort.
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Some great machines being suggested chaps. Thanks. Interestingly, Honda has had some mention but not a lot. That surprises me a bit. Are they getting a bit past it perhaps? I've just noticed that the Kubota mentioned above has little detachable pieces on the bottom of the alloy deck. I wonder if they are plastic skid plates? Now that really would be clever!
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4wd sounds a bit gimmicky on a push mower! If it skids a bit you can, well, push it. It's not like getting a pickup full of logs bogged down! I had a look at the Etesia mowers. They look good but only the top two models appear to have a blade clutch, and the mulching facility sounds very basic (shove a plate over the discharge). That's something else to get left on a job when rushing. Another thought I had that's pro Honda is the plastic deck on the lower end models. When on your own you can slide it down steps without scratching them. Currently not an issue on any of my jobs but it has been in the past with the alloy ones.
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I like the look of that Kubota. Will look at Etesia too. Agreed, I've killed a gearbox on every Honda I've ever used. Mind you three days hard contract mowing every week takes it's toll on even the best of kit!
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Push mowers for me. Most of the lawns I cut don't have access for a ride on. I do mainly small/medium domestic.
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Just scrolling through the forums and noticed this section - I've completely overlooked it until now. Saves me asking an off topic question elsewhere! I'm looking at buying a mower. I currently sub to a chap running a Honda HRX 537 which is pretty good. The features are nice. Blade clutch, variable speed, adjustable mulching via lever to either collect or mulch, with the option to mulch a bit and pick up a bit. It's good. I have experience of Hayter and don't like them, along with several other Honda pro models. Although not top spec, the HRX is probably my favourite. The thing is, I think I need to look around before deciding. It's a lot of money and with the likes of John Deere offering good models too, I don't want to be too blinkered with my choice. What else is out there? I'm cautious of machines labelled "professional" so would rather ask those who use their kit hard for their experience. In other words, you lot... Help! I'd be grateful for any suggestions.
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Good to know. Thanks. I'll be in touch
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I was thinking TH White were my closest dealer? I've not needed anything for this chipper so far as it's been really good. I'm always up for learning about other traders locally who can help me when needed...
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Where are you guys based? If not too far away I can drop them off, or I'm happy to post them to you if that's ok? I prefer to use local businesses where possible.
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All done at last. I've refitted with good quality hex bolts and applied a little copper slip to the threads and underside of the heads on fitting. Torqued to 28nm and set 0.5mm from the anvil on the closer of the two blades. It's not quite the same for both blades, the other is about .75mm off but that should still cut well. Now, who to send the old pair off to for sharpening? My local dealer isn't all that local sadly.
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Yeah I can picture what you're saying. To be honest I didn't once suffer with my bit camming out though. The bits just kept snapping! Giving them a good whack with a punch was one of the first things I tried to release mine. It's usually a good trick. I think I will need to lube my threads because the machine doesn't get used much. I've had it over a year and this is the first time I've had the blades out! In future I may just undo them and do them up again every few months to be on the safe side.
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I've just started doing my first blade change on my CS100 - it's not easy but they have been in for ages. Regarding the condition of the blades in the picture, mine are in a similar state and there was a notable drop in performance recently to how it was when I got it. My little TW10/100G was the same. Gravity fed chippers need sharp blades. Roller fed machines will press on to some degree. The biggest niggle I find with the CS100 when it gets blunt is that it doesn't cut fine stuff like birch tips. It throws them out in foot long bits. It doesn't feed so well and struggles a lot with the bigger branches too. My advice - keep the stuff you're chipping spotlessly clean and rotate/sharpen the blades as soon as you feel it's starting to slow down.
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Well today's prize goes to this man. You sir, are a legend! Thank you so much! I welded nuts on and even they sheared off, so I tried this. Got to be honest I didn't believe the studs would come out if I did but I lost my rag and prepared myself to drill and tap the lot again. But sure enough, half an hour and one side is done. It's Sunday so I decided not to do it all, but at least now I know tomorrow will have a positive outcome. They actually do unscrew by hand - I'm amazed! Only two out of the four needed a bit of help with a little chisel as I drilled them a bit deep and there was nothing left to hold on to. I'm going to see if I can get some blade bolts that have a different fitting tomorrow. A bigger allen or torx head I think would be good. Torque figures for fitting have been carefully noted!
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What a ball ache! Hey ho - the curry was good at least! I haven't surfaced this morning yet. Kind of dreading it to be honest. Hopefully the soaking they've had over night will have done something. I'll not hold my breath! First things first, off to the shops to try to find a decent T40 bit (or ten) on a Sunday! Thanks for the words of wisdom chaps. I had kind of braced myself for the fact that there would be no miracle cure that would just allow me to undo them as expected! Edit... Oh and copper slip gets put on everything. I learned that when I put a second hand linkage on my Unimog and the seller had gas cut the back of the chassis off and stuck the lot on a pallet rather than undo it! Copperslip rules! It saves so much trouble later on.
