All Activity

Well if their recent splicing cock-ups are anything to go by, it's the equivalent of phoning me for sex advice.

Does anyone have any experience of the 1988 version of the Japa 700?

'cept mebee for the wrestlin'

New hydraulic fittings fitted Apart from being shiny, they seem to work a lot better than the old ones, though I haven't used them in anger yet. They take up more space, the assembly is considerably longer than the old ones. The result of this is that in certain positions, the hydraulic hoses are on a quite tight angle. I'm guessing this is fine; it'll have to be. Ordered Manuli couplers from LS Engineers, and various adapters and washers from Burnett & Hillman.

Fcuking awful . Mud every where .

No , although it would not hurt to lap the valves i . I was talking about the valve guides . They might be worn .

I phoned about half the United Kingdom’s anodising industry.

Sure. Rigging ropes though. You (probably) wouldn’t be able to poke them through rings. How does it feel having Marlow back up your hunch?

Thanks I'll try that next.

just found this: Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM

Tom back from the states so treating to a playful of Britsh beige. Sausage meat, bubble and squeak, fried eggs and baked beans!

take the head off and clean everything, it should be pretty obvious if the valve isn't seating properly. you could then use lapping compound.

I've got two steel fimbles on my cambium saver.

The anchor side of a big ISC or DMM pulley. But yeah, mainly a biner. I doubt anyone’s using these for trees but they exist.

My nephew Rob freelance/contract climbing for a firm in Yorkshire. Grapple saw dismantling a sycamore, then doing the timber with slings etc. Raining most of the day as well.

Thank you Stubby. If that is the case is it just a matter of grinding in the valves or is it a faulty valve seal. I believe there is only one valve seal on the inlet valve?

Oil could be getting by the valve guides on that smoky cylinder .

Raining again here. Yesterday was only slightly damp, almost pleasant.

I phoned Marlow ropes technical department and learned some interesting detail (my rope is a Marlow Draco, so seemed the best choice). He gave a straight no regarding the idea that it helps with shock loading, but had an explaination that works for me. For a splice to give maximum strength, the splice throat angle should be small, that means the splice would be 3x or more, the size of the largest connector used in the eye - a very loose fit. He said with climbing lines, its a compromise, people like a tight eye and it meets the EN standard, its good enough but it is not the strongest. So, experienced riggers, what is the maximum size item that you would clip to a rigging rope? 70kN 12mm steel biners exist, so it still seems excessive.

I just give the customer options that I am willing to carry out. If they come up with a naff idea I just steer them away to something that is going to work for me. The hedge, chip in the truck and take it away somewhere unless they are desperate to keep it. Even so, if you cant get it somewhere useful let him know you top at his in the summer when it is dry and you can get the chip somewhere useful.

In this case I think he just didnt realise what the result would be but he specifically didnt want any wood taken away - as if rotting poplar has some monetary or sentimental value to him...? He paid a reasonable amount. How much would you add for wheelbarrowing that pile 30 meters to the driveway and tipping? For the hedge next week he *wants* it to be chipped into the woodland. Theres two options there, chuck on van whole and tip into woodland, for me to chip later - no thanks, better to only handle it once. Or to chip onto van and tip the chip into woodland. Now the ground is uneven, van cant get much inside the entrance, so its going to be a huge pile of it - which I know is not his intention - when I chip the brash I said I'll keep moving the nozzle to get an even spread. So, will I end up barrowing a ton of chip around? Its the same entrance that a tracked chipper will need to use the week after, so yes I will likely have to shift it as part of that.

Ah but physics is not simple, and not what I see from trying both in the Echo. 1/4" has 20% more cutters in contact so the extra width of 3/8 is about the same, but full chisel is more efficient and a lot easier to sharpen, and better on small pruning cuts. I bought the PM3 on arbtalks recommendation. I'd suggest you try the 3/8FC.. Stihl do a narrow 1.1 gauge 3/8" FC that is probably the fastest over all. I cant see it in 40DL however so would need to be shortened.. Stihl 14" Picco Super 3 Pro (PS3 Pro) 3/8" P .043″ (1.1mm) 3699-000-0050 - 50 Drive Links - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK The PS3 Pro saw chain is a low profile full chisel tooth chain with a narrow kerf for increased cutting performance of 20% compared to PS3 chain...

It’s quicker on the 1/4P with a 10” bar, simple physics. 3/8 is more forgiving, but I don’t think it lets the saw perform to its potential.

It is a Stihl PM3 chain, I bought a 64dl one a while back and shortened to 60, to fit the original bar. I agree probably needs an adjustment, and a better exhaust, and the momentary stop switch from the clone.. I much prefer the 3/8" chain. I do have a spare bar and sprocket so might swap the Echo back to 3/8" but I'm rarely using it.