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Am with Muddy on this one, not sure of the need, unless you are HETAS registered and then you'll have all the toys. To check a draught, a ball of newspaper on the grate (or potential where grate will be) is as good as any, smoke goes up the chimney you have a draught. Did the same to my fires when opening them up to give an indication of issues and then called in the sweep knowing all was well. Sweep did smoke tests and would have done a camera survey if I'd wanted. After that once the stove or fire is in use, Muddys symptoms will show problems and issues and then you might want to call someone in (or the installer back) to fix them... and they will have the toys. As for installing and so on, you can install yourself but get a registered HETAS engineer to sign off the work - if you can find one to do that without costing about as much as the install itself.

How light can you go before it’s a pain? And how easy to pull slack?

Burning wet wood is a right game and I don't see a stump getting dry. I have seen internet attempts and they have been at it for a day or more feeding a fire lit on the stump. Seemed to work eventually but why go to all that effort if you can grind it out?

No just made one with my unused rope wrench.. It's very good and can be taken off the pinto easily if it's not required. It works very well with my harken with one groundy to lift branches away, then I can take control in the tree and lower it. At a guess it takes about 50% of the load meaning it's possible to lift 100-150kg branches on the harken and then release It off the harken to lower it by hand. I'd recommend giving it a go

Have you used either of the ISC ones?

If you are self-installing you might already be offside. England is stricter than Scotland. In England the installer needs to be HETAS registered to comply with building regs. Plus your house insurance may have a view on this. If a pro is doing it, its up to them what test they do. Or you can self install and get someone to check it afterwards. Even if you clean your chimney yourself you should also employ a sweep occasionally to ensure a paper trail and cover yourself. But rules aside, personally I don't see the need. Make sure you comply with the stove's installation requirements and crack on. you get a good feel for whether the draft is adequate by using it. Or you can see if the stove will pull a candle flame towards it. The other tests are whether the flue carry smoke properly and it doesn't end up in the attic or coming out other chimneys. Then there is a spillage tests - does the stove leak smoke from fire cement, seams or door seals.

Good to know. Thanks. No, echo has only one 35cc auto choke. All others have manual carbs.

One of these (DIY or an actual rigging wrench) is invaluable for rigging in the tree or working with only one grounds man as you can readily control it as they land it.

The silence from the TDS sufferers regarding the release of the Israeli hostages and the US administration’s part in it is quite telling.

Thank you very much for the response. As far as I've read, a flue draught test is one of three tests which should be performed as part of commissioning. Likewise as part of official safety checks (Landlord certificates, etc.). Some sweeps even suggest that it should be taken as part of an annual sweep and service, although I don't know if that's going too far?! Many thanks

Why do you want one and whats your setup, if you don't mind me asking? Draft tests need to performed under very specific conditions, specified in the stove manual and the manufacturer may need it performed by a professional to believe you have an issue. But ultimately it just gives you a number for problems you can spot without a manometer. Low draft symptoms would be smoking when lighting or opening the door, hard to keep going, smell when not lit etc. You might have a problem with the liner or it needs to be insulated. Maybe the flue is too short (<4m). maybe a down draft is being created by overhanging hills or trees. Maybe its a modern house that is sealed or there are competing drafts (dryer, extractor fans). you can just live with a marginal draft by using firelighters, getting the chimney hot quickly with a burst of newspaper or opening a window and always burning hot with less fuel. If the draft is too high your fuel doesn't last, the fire is difficult to control, the stove gets too hot or even gets damaged. In my experience the low draft is much more common these days, especially in today's eco conscious world, where designers try to minimize the amount of heat going up the chimney, which is effectively what causes draft in the first place. Think of it like an engine, you sometimes help things by helping air to get in and out as exhaust. Modifications need to be done with caution to home insurance etc.

Great habitat!

2 year old trees.

Not even the 4510? Older models weren't but newer shape ones were ? It still hesitated for a second

Hi Many thanks for the response. Much appreciated. That all sounds very interesting, but perhaps a bit technical for me! I like the sound of it, but aren't sure if a) I'd know what I'm doing, and b) even if I did, how I would then measure or read the results. I've seen the Testo 510 which seems to be the most commonly available but comes in at £150. I've also found this one, which from what I can tell will do what I need at half the price. I've emailed them to be sure. It says it does differential, which I'm assuming is NOT what I need. I'm guessing it will take standard measurements too. RPS Flue Draught Gauge with Probe | RPS - SnapLok WWW.RPS-SNAPLOK.CO.UK RPS Flue Draught Gauge with Stainless Steel Test Kit ***NOTE THIS KIT INCLUDES THE STAINLESS STEEL TEST KIT, SO CAN BE USED STRAIGHT OUT THE BOX*** Differential... It's still an unfortunate layout for a one time use, but I guess that's the benefit of eBay etc! Any thoughts on this unit or any others? Thanks again

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Echo is not auto tune yet.

Train to Kilmarnock... should be possible if no car. There are a few members on here who are ex-forces and might be able to drop you a line with any issues adjusting to life in the arb industry.

Holly tree down here in Dorset, generally not in fantastic nick and more recently found increasing holes in the bark going up from the base of the trunk. Tree is within a wider wooded area with your typical woodland friends. Any thoughts on what the cause is, and does this spell the end for poor Holly?

Hi Tony We have a depot based near Kilmarnock if that is commutable for you? We are currently looking for a new entry starter and would provide a training plan to progress along a career pathway towards becoming a fully qualified arborist. Please drop me a DM with your contact details if interested Many thanks Chris