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Hello everyone, I am after some insight on other peoples experience regarding how they have progressed within the industry. A little about myself. I am coming up to 13 years as a tree surgeon, working at least 10 of those years as a lead climber. Somewhat varied work ranging from pruning council/street trees within central London for many years, to working as a self employed lead climber/team leader around west London/Buckinghamshire area, completing large scale jobs/projects. The last few years have been a mixture of self employed climbing for various companies a few days a week, with the other days working for my business with my truck, chipper and tools. Recently I have started to question if this is something i want to continue. For a couple of reasons; 1. I am really starting to feel the toll on my body. I'm only 32 but am aware if i keep working the way I do, I wont be able to physically keep doing the job in a few years to come. 2. Potentially looking to move more into central London , so would not look forward to figuring out the logistics of running a tree surgery firm considering how stressful i already find it on the outskirts in what i consider a more spacious/work friendly area. 3. I have recently started to feel like the work i currently do doesn't leave me fulfilled. I.e. working as a self employed climber seemed that companies would only get me in for large scale takedowns (on trees that most of the time i was personally conflicted as to the reasons they would be coming down) or pile on the amount of work needed to be completed in a day. Basically i've felt like a bit a wrecking ball, just coming in and smashing out work with no pride for my work. Does anyone have experience with moving away from climbing full time that also doesn't follow down the path of starting a tree surgery business? I am happy to go back and study, maybe just a little bit lost where to start and what the end goal would be. I have been self employed for a while now and I'm not sure if it suits me to be honest. For myself i feel like the only benefit is that I don't have restrictions for how much holiday i can take. Realistically i am trying to put things in place before we move to central London. In an ideal world i think i would love to climb 2/3 days per week and spend the other days in a less physical capacity within the industry. I know this isn't an ideal world. Again i just seem overwhelmed and lost as this type of work is all i've known. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. or if you have any more questions or need more info from me Thanks

Alright all. I'm pretty new to carving, over the past few years I've done a handful of pieces mainly just because I like doing it. I've never really tried to sell my work but I would like to start. I've not invested loads of money in it, still just playing with a stock bar and die grinder with a couple of different burrs but it'd be nice to recover some of my fuel costs if poss. My question is, those of you who do sell your work, how and where do you do it? Is it better to carve up things in advance on the hope people might buy them or do you mainly get commissions? I've stuck on some photos to give you an idea of where I'm at with it. Thanks in advance. WhatsApp Vidéo 2025-09-01 à 13.29.23_6efc7c2a.mp4

Generally its re-mounting a new tyre. I can break the beads by getting all the air out then jumping on the tyre. Agreed I use lots of fairy liquid and push the tyre into the centre and any old compressor seems fine. A ratchet strap can also help temporarily force the rims to seat while you put air in.

Yes. 3/8" is the pitch wheras the 0.050 and 0.043 are the gauge. The width of the rail on the chainsaw bar will determine the gauge of the chain and the pitch needs to be the same as the nose and the drive sprocket. Chain, guide bar and sprocket identification - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Identifying a chain, guide bar and sprocket on a chainsaw can be tricky. Use our guide to easily take you through how to...

Dunno, he’s dead now so cannot ask. I know he said getting the footings right was the biggest challenge, as if they’re too big (sloppy digger work) it costs a fortune in extra concrete.

House with driveway for tipping

We have large concrete bays for dropping material off and are capable of accepting large or multiple loads, without any problem

I forgot to ask, which part of the process is defeating you? I assume breaking the beads, as thats usually my problem. If its mounting and demounting, make sure your using plenty of tyre soap/lube and have the opposing side of the tyre pushed into the centre. For popping the tyre beads I usually manage with a small car tyre inflator. Very rarely do I need the big compressor, I havent used that in several years.

How are you all getting these slabs to dry flat? I don't even bother slabbing now because anything that has the pith in turns into an Escher painting after a few months on the stack.

Hi i have question. On the Echo 2511 tes, it is same socket for chain 3/8" .050 and .043? I want change for oregon bar 12" and chain 3/8" .043 . Thank you

thanks. Yes I have a concrete floor in mind that I can bolt it too.

I bought one of those a while back after getting a puncture in my car, perhaps two months ago. I put a temporary repair string in the tyre.. not yet fitted it to floor or finished adapting it. You can get an upgrade kit with a ducks head, alu cone and arm, to allow changing alloys without scratching them. I didnt buy the arm and will weld one up. This sort of thing https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0F3WB63SX However for small stuff I have a Stenor. Its great for breaking motorcycle tyres but found cars are too big.

To be dropped onto the driveway

I have one of those, they work fine for most tires, smaller wheelbarrow tires cant be done as they don't have the hole in the center, and some rims have an internal lip on the rim to stop the tire coming off at very low pressures, these may be a problem with the bead breaker part of the machine, I reinforced mine and it worked fine after the mod. make sure you bolt it to a concrete floor securely, you will see them mounted on pallets, or sleepers, but you'll just end up wrestling the thing around the workshop, securely fixed to the floor and you can get the best from it.

I change a lot of small tyres - mowers, quad, trailers, wheelbarrow etc. Some tyres I can remove with basic tools, a vice, lubricant and lots of swearing, but some defeat me. The local garage doesn't really like changing small tyres and they have taken two weeks so far to do the last one and no doubt it will be expensive. I can fit valves, tubes, patches, plugs and all the other bodges for non-road use. Can anyone recommend a manual tyre changing tool for small tyres? Something like this? Thanks

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the birthplace of Einstein, Copernicus, Darwin, Leonardo da Vinci, Newton, Galileo, and Starmer

What sort of proportions of time was he using the back actor to dig, lift etc compared to using the front bucket (and forks?) to move stuff

Hire digger for clearing the site, then buy a loader for the build, far more useful.

Surprise two here Wordle 1,535 2/6* ⬜🟨⬜🟩🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

Hi Dan It does make a difference, that's why we asked. We are trying to only post on a Friday, with whatever we are promoting on our socials and emails. I do notice that when we update the classifieds, they all pop up in the unread posts. As these run out after 2 weeks, I've started to try to spread them out so it's not too much at once. I can't control this as it's an Arbtalk thing. Pricing-wise, we should always be cheaper as we are only there to move on end-of-line products or out-of-packaging products. We will have a think and discussion on how to be more engaging in our content - any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you for your feedback, it is valuable to us as it should be for any business.

Could have been better. Wordle 1,535 4/6 🟨🟩⬛🟩⬛ ⬛🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬛🟩🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

I would think the oil bath air filter would be a no no due to you needing to use the grinder on slopes etc. Have a look at the Chinese Honda copies for a replacement (Lifan etc). About half the price, electric start versions available. Obviously check crankshaft length/diameter before ordering. The foam sleeve that goes over the paper air filter element is an important part of the set up if working in dusty environment. It needs to be dipped in clean oil and squeezed out at regular intervals after washing out in petrol to catch any dust etc. before reaching the paper filter.