Mick Jones

As spud mentioned if you disconnect the stop wire from coil this eliminates any possible earthing fault. Its quite possible you have a spark out side the cylinder but the spark fails under compression. Sounds like its worth trying a replacement coil.

The "B" will be the size of the vee section(profile) the1245 quite possibly the length (1245 MTR) if that helps.

The father in law used to buy at auctions after the war, at Burtonwood in Lancashire. I believe the americans had pulled out and he told me they used to auction off crates unopened. You put in your bid and took a gamble. I recall him telling me a friend of his made quite a lot of money buying the american socket sets cheap ( they used A/F sizes while we were using whitworth) He sat on them for a while and sold them on.

Wow, The locals that live near you get better breakdown cover than A.A./R.A.C./Greenflag put together.😂 It is satisfying if you can help someone out in a bind though. 👍

Rob, It may be worth you having a look at a long thread on " the farming forum" (TFF) There is a lot of discussion on this subject and by the looks of it many grey area,s regarding tax/reclaiming vat and even max speed limits for certain pickups, vans etc. I think the thread is titled "best pickup" or something similar. 👍

Mound planting would be a good call. A bit like a Devon bank. More cost involved but an instant windbreak. Our old place had ground conditions similar looking to this, clay and a high water table. We had no chance of draining it away to anywhere, soakaways filled up and held water.

The symptoms you describe do sound like a fuel problem. There is nothing worse than tracing a problem that is intermittant. If you go to basics a diesel engine needs: 1) fuel 2) air 3) compression I would think compression/ pump timing would be o.k. as you say it runs fine at times. I would try it with a temporary tank/fuel line/filter set up to eliminate any problems with the existing fuel supply system. As mentioned above use a new pump (not too expensive) It could be there is the diesel is contaminated with the diesel bug but i would expect your workshop mechanics would have picked that up (it looks like the contents of a chimney sweeps hankerchief in the tank)😄 The other thing to try is remove the air hose to the inlet manifold when it starts smoking,( not while chipping) this will tell you if its a blocked or restricted air supply. Good luck with it. Mick.

Another vote for Rowett. I,ve used them for a few years for my compact and mule. Always seem good to deal with. Mind you, never had to put a claim in yet.🤞

Just to add, any fine particles of dirt suspended in the fuel/tank can bypass these filters so definately worth dumping any fuel out of the tank and cleaning fuel lines and carb paying special attention to float needle/ needle seat. Carb floats can leak too although i have found this more with the old copper floats. Worth giving the float a shake to see if there is any fuel inside. Surely sounds like its running rich though from your description. Good luck with it.

Or take out valve and spray a little parts cleaner inside between tyre and rim spraying a trail over tyre onto ground, stand back and light. Tyre bead is blown into place on rim.Used this method to seat quad tyres sent through post that usually come flattened. Use all relevant safety gear/don,t try this without training etc.etc.😂

There will be a drain plug on the bottom of the chaincase Doug. Also a level plug( at the front if I remember correctly.) The original spec. oil would have been EP 80/90 s. You may find that if you refill you will have leakage at gaskets/seals etc. If this is the case try a liquid grease (as used in land rover front axle swivels) If your reasonably happy with the cut leave the sharpening for a while until your paddock has had the high spots knocked off. New bottom blades/screws and a cylinder grind and your away.👍

Hayterette 18" would be a good shout. Quite old now but swingtip blades on a disc cut almost anything. No drive though.

Agree with the above. Check roller is turning freely with belt off and work from there. One thing to watch with those Webb drives is try too get the correct belt ( not a bog standard drive belt) as the pulley is constantly running against the belt when not in drive. This can cause heat build up on that section of the belt. By adjusting the round guide bars either side of the pulley (a tap with a hammer😂) you should be able to keep the belt clear of the live pulley. From memory i think the belt you need would be a "green belt" rated for that type of drive set up. A decent belt / bearing supplier would advise you on that. Good luck!