357 xp dealer rebuild

[Treemover]

Gave my 357xp in for a tune and was told it was knackered due to lack of compression.

I was shown the scores on cylinder and given another saw to pull to feel the difference.

 

I was told €400 would replace piston and cylinder but ended up with a €500 bill.

 

I figured the old girl was better than the newer stuff?

 

After getting saw, when hot, she was running a tad fast on tick over or rather was slow to drop to tick over. Chain would stay turning.

 

Brought her back to dealers and they couldn't find same issue but did lower idle as she was running a tad fast.

 

Now she's a pig to start when warm?

 

I'm not happy with my dealer, and tbh loosing faith in husky stuff.

It can take 4-6 pulls to get her going when warm?

[Tom D]

Check the coil, and the gap.

[Will Heal]

Have they replaced the cylinder and piston but not found and repaired the cause? If so take it back get your money back and give it to someone who knows what they are doing

[Johny Walker]

Gave my 357xp in for a tune and was told it was knackered due to lack of compression.

I was shown the scores on cylinder and given another saw to pull to feel the difference.

 

I was told €400 would replace piston and cylinder but ended up with a €500 bill.

 

I figured the old girl was better than the newer stuff?

 

After getting saw, when hot, she was running a tad fast on tick over or rather was slow to drop to tick over. Chain would stay turning.

 

Brought her back to dealers and they couldn't find same issue but did lower idle as she was running a tad fast.

 

Now she's a pig to start when warm?

 

I'm not happy with my dealer, and tbh loosing faith in husky stuff.

It can take 4-6 pulls to get her going when warm?

 

 

what was it running like before you took it in

[spudulike]

Stuff like this rather explains why I am so busy.

 

The saw must be pressure and vacuum tested to ensure it is 100% air tight as if it is leaking, it is possible the saw will seize again.

 

The varying idle and reluctance to drop to idle is a classic sign of an airleak - it is also similar to the carb issue on older Walbro carbs fitted to these machines.

 

It is very possible that the original cylinder could have been salvaged and a new piston fitted, significantly lowering the repair bill but it is too late for that!

 

This isn't a Husqvarna issue as the 357XP is a fine saw when in good fettle.

 

You need to verify if the saw was pressure/vacuum tested (often called "Leak Down Test") by the dealer before returning it to you, the rubber boots tend to leak when old and if it has the earlier plastic manifold clamp, it should be replaced by the plastic one!

 

The poor hot starting may be the L screw over rich or too lean.

 

Sounds like the saw needs to go back to the dealer and the correct questions asked, if they don't talk you through what has been done and resolve the issue, perhaps you need to find someone that does care!

Edited April 20, 2015 by spudulike

[adw]

Tut tut spud clamp should be replaced by the plastic one?? any way, does it have the auto deco valve? if so change to the standard blue button type, impulse hose split? as has been said the Walbro carb had issues like this, the Zama carb runs so much better, for the cost i would change the crank seals, was the cylinder a genuine Mahl cylinder or a after market one?

[spudulike]

Tut tut spud clamp should be replaced by the plastic one?? any way, does it have the auto deco valve? if so change to the standard blue button type, impulse hose split? as has been said the Walbro carb had issues like this, the Zama carb runs so much better, for the cost i would change the crank seals, was the cylinder a genuine Mahl cylinder or a after market one?

 

Sorry, typo, I meant the plastic one should be replaced by the METAL one as Mr ADW knows only too well:sneaky2:

 

The auto decomps are the spawn of beelzebub and if you do change it, ensure the lower connection in to the transfer bulge is plugged.

[Treemover]

It was neglect that caused the issue. I ploughed on and never noticed the split hose up to decomp - yes she's auto.

 

As far as I know, everything except the outer orange shell is new. Saw even went to husqvarna in Dublin as after rebuild she wouldn't run??

 

I don't want to be a pain constantly returning to dealer, but for €500 I do expect the saw to run like new. And she was a great saw previous.

 

Such a fan, that's why I threw money into her rather than go for newer auto tunes??

 

I'll take her back and see what they can do.

 

Oh as far as I can tell she was pressure tested? But if she goes bang again; I don't want to be told it's my fault when I paid for expert labour and genuine parts.

[Joe Newton]

Get it down to Spud, don't bother faffing with the dealers.

 

The saw that turned up on my door was a different animal to the box of scrap I sent him.

 

Came back fixed, perfect working order, ported, exhaust opened up, and I think it was even a bit cleaner then when I sent it

 

It now spins up like a rocket and pulls like a train, with around 200psi compression.

 

And all for a hell of a lot less than what you paid for your "repair"!

[Stubby]

Get it down to Spud, don't bother faffing with the dealers.

 

The saw that turned up on my door was a different animal to the box of scrap I sent him.

 

Came back fixed, perfect working order, ported, exhaust opened up, and I think it was even a bit cleaner then when I sent it

 

It now spins up like a rocket and pulls like a train, with around 200psi compression.

 

And all for a hell of a lot less than what you paid for your "repair"!

 

Nutshell