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Well if it doesn’t get any more controversial than an OIL THREAD, OIL BE DAMNED! 😄😃😁 Hello again folks. Having just been tipped off as to run in the engine on my newest saw, I’m curious as to what the current trend is regarding what BAR OIL is best? Thos who were around when I first joined the site and posted may distantly my nightmare with a new Stihl MS391 which refused to oil the bar. After much back and forth we (Arbtalk and I) managed to square it away to the overly thick Makita branded chain oil I was using. It’s syrupy thickness, challenged only by the likes of Diane Abbot, Angela Raynor and David Lammy, caused a lack of flow to the bar and chain, and was remedied by a flush and refill. (I thin with Oregon oil) Now I need to ask you people what you use currently and how you’ve come to that conclusion, if you will? Many thanks to all who have helped me, past, present and future ! 😁🫡

Howdy Agimos! Just a quick one to rack your brains and harvest your opinions please? I am contemplating adding a small, cheapish saw to my collection, specifically for pruning task, light tree work on my property and to bridge the gap between my ratchet loppers and my smallest other saw, a Makita / Dolmar DCS4301 at 43cc. Initially I fancied an Echo 2511WES for its diminutive size and low weight. Two things put me off slightly, the £400 cost, and reports on this forum of issues with the smoothness of the chain in wood. Setting my sights a little lower, and slashing the budget required in half left me looking at three ‘big name’ entry level beginner saws all under £200, as listed below: Stihl MS162 @ £155.00 Husqvarna 120 II @ £170 Echo CS-310 ES @ £199 and the ‘off brand’ wildcard, in the image of my initial choice, a smaller saw aimed it appears at CS-2511 WES buyers; Mitox 270 CSX @ £199 also. Your thoughts and experience with these saws would be greatly appreciated ladies and gentlemen.

Hello This has me stumped, I have a husqvarna 545 that starts and runs great (starts 1 pull everytime after warm). However, after getting hot (like after cutting down and trimming a pine tree, basically running hard for at least 5 minutes) it will start to instantly die when tilted forward or sometimes even when tilted to either side. It happens instantly when tilted and it still restarts 1 pull instantly afterwards. It happens with fuel and oil tanks full, so it's not the fuel pickup line (and the line is not pinched in the tank, I checked). I tried spraying at various points with a brake cleaner after warming it up at home (but it wasn't hot), at the gasket, side transfer ports, intake boot and even in oil tank, there was no hesitation. Any ideas on what could be the cause?

Oakridge tree care here can anyone give me feedback on the ms500i i currently use a ms 660 is there much difference

I have a new huskvarna 562 and 550, and I want to know exactly what proportion of gasoline oil to mix for them. In different topics they talk about it differently. Thank you.

Hi! I have a stock Stihl MS180 (2-mix) chainsaw. I need a little more power. I would like to mod the carb and the muffler only. Please write me, how to do it, and attach pictures too! I would like definitely change the original chain to a faster chain. .325 would be great?

Hi everyone. I am a landscaper, I get a lot of firewood to chop, looking for a new small saw to help with that as well use for smaller pruning etc to compliment my bigger saw when it is unnecessary. I’ve looked at the husqvarna 120 Mkii or the 135. (I know the 135 mkii is out end of March) Is the 120 a good saw and do the job? Or is it too lightweight for even firewood and pruning? Or should I pay the extra and wait for the 135mkii? Thanks. George

Hi All, I've been lurking here for a long time, reading interesting discussions. However, I've got a question I'd be interested in people's views on. I've got a couple of 346XP (newer version) chainsaws, one bought in 2007 and the other in 2009. Having recently bought a 536LiXP, I decided to sell the older 346XP to a friend who was just starting in forestry. But, 6 weeks later it stopped dead while he was cleaning up a tree stump, and the engine wouldn't turn over. My assumption was not enough mixing oil, but we took it apart last night and found the piston had broken (see attached images), with no sign of overheating damage to piston or cylinder. So... I'm refunding him his money, as I sold it thinking it was working but promised that if it died in the near future I'd pay him back. And now I'm not sure what to do from the following options: 1. Have a go at repairing it myself. Problem here is I don't really need it (which is why I'd sold it) - I have a working 346XP, a larger petrol saw too and am trying to use the electric one as much as possible. 2. Keep it for spares for my other 346XP. But then I may not use any of the parts for years... 3. Sell it as it is for someone to repair or use for parts. It was in working order in all other respects. 4. Sell parts from it on ebay. (more money that option 3, but a lot more work) Any thoughts greatly appreciated! Thanks, Mike

Hi everyone and firstly a hello to you all; just joined arbtalk having read a few threads from “the outside” and I am looking forward to being part of the community. I am hoping someone here might be able to help me- I want to repair my dad’s old Husqvarna 50 (barrel and piston are damaged due to running without enough / with no 2-stroke mixed...). he’s owned it from new but was going to throw away. Problem is I can’t tell if it’s a “special” (45mm I believe) or a regular 44mm 50. If anyone can give me a steer I’d be very grateful and it can help me get the correct new cylinder etc. (also- I notice that most aftermarket cyclinders have a decompression valve but the original does not, can’t see a problem with that unless anyone knows better?) thanks, merlin Ps was taken apart by a local dealer to assess the damage

Im looking to buy a battery top handle to replace my stihl ms201. Ive got my eye on the stihl msa 160 and the husq t536lixp. What experiences do you guys/girls have with them?? Im not sure which one to go for!!! Which one would you recommend?? Cheers

Hello, I am new to this forum, as it was suggested by my local tree surgeon. There are a few STIHL/HUSQVARNA dealers around me, but what I want to know is which one would have a good selection of products on show? I am in 2 minds to either go with cordless or petrol. Cordless seems like a good long term investment, as the battery is compatible with many optional tools in a range. But wondered if the power is there. Thanks Danni

Hi, just wondered if anyone could help my 3 year old 560xp has started to play up. I wouldn’t say it’s Bogging out, it’s just slow on pick up on the revs then at full revs doesn’t seem like it’s at full power. I wondered whether it’s the fuel filter or carb. Any info on this would be great. Thanks

What is the different between the 572 and the 565? Which parts are same and which are different? Is the 565 optimal using in forest? How is it works? Could you tell me a similar model? Is it more powerful than the 365 or the 372?

Hi guys! The rim sprocket on my 560 is totally fooked, and I am seriously struggling to find replacement sprockets online! Could somebody point me in the right direction? J

Hi folks Looking for a husqvarna T540XP crankcase Thanks Joe

I have had my 572 xp-g for several months now and I still can't get Husqvarna to reply to any of my messages or phone calls regarding where I can get the double dog kit for the new legendary saw. I was surprised that the saw is being sold with out because all the marketing material shows it with double dogs and chain roller. Anyone else noticed this or did your 572 come with double dogs and chain roller? love and peace M

i was in my local dealer the other day and got chatting, got onto the new husqy fuel as they'd just got the first batch in, the claimed the 2 stroke stuff was just aspen rebadged. anyone else heard this? same sort of price as aspen and red can for 2 stroke and blue can for 4 stroke so it would make sense. my local husqy dealer is far closer and i much prefer them to my local aspen stockist so will happily move to them for fuel is it's the same juice at the end of the day

Afternoon all I was intrigued and succumbed to Fleabay temptation a couple of years ago and bought a 2nd hand 536i XP with 4 Amp battery and charger. Perfect? Gawd no. Frustrating? On occasion, yes. But overall, good enough to go for the 535i replacement. Summary of what I've found in 2+ years of use below. Good things: 1 Ease of use. Just brilliant. Hold down start button for maybe 2 secs and go. No choke, no pulling anything, no ear-muffs etc just get to work. Chain brake exactly the same as a petrol motor except the warning lights come on to remind you that its on. Best bit? If there is a problem, your groundie can shout and you can hear him. 2 Maintenance. The oil tank holds enough for about 3 or 4 (4 Amp) battery recharges. Other than re-charge the batteries (I should say I use a slow 80w charger out-of-hours to lengthen battery life), sharpen the chain and maintain the bar, just keep the air intake clean. That's it. 3 Motor overheat cut-out. Got to admit this was the most frustrating bit about the saw. But I accidentally came across the solution. I was running it with a pair of 4 Amp batteries which I would charge with a QC330 rapid charger. I never managed to empty a fully charged battery before the other was charged up. But if I was chogging down a tree and getting near to bar length (14" bar), I had to be really careful not to push it too hard because the motor would cut out and then take a while to cool down and recommence operations again. The frustration was in a number of ways: the on light sometimes flashed before cutting out for a second or two and sometimes did not. On one occasion it cut out after I had finished cutting!!! It would then refuse to play for anything from 10 secs to a couple of minutes. No rhyme or reason as far as I could make out, although I did notice that this happened more often if the battery was losing its charge. The fix? The older of my 4 amp batteries passed away (sniff) and I replaced it with a 5.2 Amp. OMG what a difference! No cutting out, no matter how long I cut for or how big the timber, truly a revelation. Bad things: 1 Bar life. I seem to have got through a lot of bars. 4+ in the last year alone. I don't think I am unusually heavy on my kit since nothing else has a similar problem and this issue is compounded by the fact that it is much harder to get hold of pattern replacements since not many people are using these saws. 2 Weatherproofness (is that a word?). Early on in our time together it rained hard and the saw was out in it. I had been using it up a tree earlier in the weather and it had been fine but then it just refused to play. I brought it indoors, pulled it apart, dried it off and left it alone for a few days and it started up again and has been fine ever since then. But I am now quite fussy about bringing it when the rain starts. 3 Its electric. I know, this is a bit odd but,,,, There is something missing about a chainsaw that doesn't make a racket: it just doesn't seem as dangerous somehow. When I first got it I found myself not bothering with c/saw kit when I used it. When I stopped to consider it, this is nonsense. Chainspeed is 20m/s ie more than quick enough, as I found out (another story) but the lack of noise lulls you into a false sense of security. 4 Robustness. I am a bit of a Husky fan and so also have a Mk 1 550, 2x 562's and a 572 (plus a rebuilt Stihl 076 AV, again, another story) but the 536 does seem more plasticky and less robust than the petrol saws. Having said that, other than the water resistance and bar issues as mentioned above, nothing else has let go or broken. So the 536 is to be relegated to be a chipper saw and I am ordering a new 535 with another 5.2 Amp battery. Going for a 12" bar this time. Cheers Andrew

So wasn’t sure where to put this..... Anyway after doing some repair work to my dads mower see here for info: I quite enjoyed doing it & think they are a decent mower and I was bored on marketplace ??? I happenEd to find one for sale locally..... a similar machine, I think a slightly newer one? Has a different handle and motor is badged Honda not husqvarna (May have been changed?) Anyway as I have more time and don need to get it back to mowing after a couple of days I decided can do a bit more with this one and will either sell it or keep it as a spare, might swap it with the old man and finish his properly who knows, anyway thought I would document it here if anyone was interested...

Hello, Over the past week all of my employees have broken at least one brake band. Having never broke a band myself I am wondering if there are any pro tips on what to look out for that might be causing excessive wear? They have all broke at the point where the band comes round and begins to wrap round the smaller circle nearer the brake handle. The saws are only 1 month old, all the same make, same model, from the same supplier. They have been going under tough conditions brashing and snedding gnarly sitka spruce though I'd hope to get more than a month out of a band. Given that I did not have as many brake bands in store as spare this will slow the job somewhat, so any advice on the issue would be much appreciated! all the best, Liam Broc

Hello, just wondering if any of you no if this part is needed for anything?

Well I can tell you that it is the Husqvarna 125b. I bought one several months ago, it gets used about 10 minutes a day and has been run on Aspen fuel. Then it stopped working. Seized engine. The dealer said it would be a warranty but our trusted Husqvarna said no, it must be fuel or operator error. Well that is just nonsense but they won't budge. Not only am I massively disappointed, I am furious! This is exactly the kind of service that has made our country crap and the global laughing stock. Furthermore, one of my trucks was broken into recently and chainsaws were stolen. They are insured and the claim is going through and I will have the opportunity to replace with the same, or I could choose a different brand. So Husqvarna UK, should I now switch to a different brand for ever more. I have been loyal to your brand for a long long time and understand how things work, but this blower situation is beyond the pale. I'm not expecting anyone to reply to this, except Husqvarna. One mightily disappointed customer!

So... I replaced the crankcase gasket on my 346xpg a wee while back - started on the third pull when I got it back together, it had only been lying in bits for a year.... 👊 However, I used the wrong bolts to attach the front handle at the bottom of the saw. They were too long so have worn two little holes through the crankcase, spilling chain oil everywhere. Not a great look down your legs... Does anyone know where I can get the two crankcase halves? My dealer quoted £190 new, I didn't like the sound of that! There's a half crankcase on eBay for £30 at the moment but I'm holding off to see if I can source the two together, even off the same saw. Thanks!

Hello Arbtalk,, Just a quick Post, to Ask if anyone has knowledge of / If its possible,, to replace a Husqvarna 2100 exhaust .. With another equivalent.. OEM Is a rectangular shape,, but is there another option of exhaust replacement.? Would I gain or lose anything with the swapping of Exhaust.?? Open to All.. T.I.A

I was clearing out a shed in a commercial yard and came across this for disposal It was in a box all in bits but I couldn't figure what had caused the damage to the HT wire and wire to the switch, they looked burnt at first . Then I noticed the teeth marks on the starter housing. I'm wondering if it had been used with veggie oil and that had attracted the rodents. Then I took the plastic cover off the coil: It looks like the PVC insulation on the live wire to the ignition coil has chafed through. Can anyone tell from the serial number when it was made, my guess was 1979 as I had some 266s around then but this one doesn't seem to have much use prior to being dismantled. Apart from the damage to the starter casing it seems only to be missing all the chain brake mechanism and band.