Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Glad you got it sorted. I just read the thread and was about to say this is bound to be carb related. This is all Ive ever had to do on older B&S engines.
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I have kept two of those homeowner stihl saws going from new for 5 years each. That seems like quite good value to me. yup cutting with dull chains will kill most saws pretty quick. I cant comment on Parkside and Im kind of stuck with stihl now because i can work on them and the amount of spare bars and parts I have built up !
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https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-ms162-12-petrol-chainsaw.html?gad_source=1
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Do you have any existing batteries - makita / stihl etc? That is a large part of the cost and would affect my decision. As said you can get a 16 inch petrol stihl chainsaw for £150 which is a way better price for power ratio than any electric battery chainsaw.
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I've had a small pot of that stuff and agree its not as good. My advice is to avoid anything with derivations of the real name - 'creacote' 'creoseal' etc. I just checked and the label has come off the barrel I have so can't help you, but I'm sure it was something like "original 100% coal tar creosote" - professional farm use only and lots of health warnings. In my view as long as you won't come into contact with the wood, you want something toxic. If it harms humans it will harm bacteria and fungus! Its the same with lead paint for exterior use - that stuff lasted for 70 years between coats. You are lucky to get 5 years out of modern paint.
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I still see some 100% coal tar creasote for sale online.
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I come across this problem quite frequently on second hand saws and all over the place - bar nuts, saw dogs, vibration mounts etc. I blame the bell ends who use impact drivers to scrunch in the screws - its fine to undo screws with an impact driver and maybe get the screw started on the way back in, but its best to tighten the last bit by hand. Also as said, often you get two sizes of screw that are the same thread. Its easy to mix the long and short ones up.
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- Does either the male or the female thread look stripped or worn after cleaning? Is there any way a screw has been used that is M5, but too long? I've seen this cause damage before. - You could try the stronger more permanent Locktite red. which can be removed with a bit of heat. - or try epoxy if you think the screw is a bit loose. You could try to repair the thread with a tap or drill it out to M6 and re tap. Note ideally for blind holes you need a square/flat ended tap. Or if that fails use a helicoil. I have done all three of these techniques in sequence to various Stihl saws (not MS500i) - I think the hole is blind so you cannot get a nut in behind, but have a look.
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Sorry its a bit hard to tell from the video which line you are applying pressure/vacuum to? Personally I test the fuel inlet, the purpose being to test the needle seats properly and then pops off with a certain amount of pressure. Ive never had reason to test the purge line, but I think all that would tell you is whether the check valve in the fuel pump diaphragm is working. Even then I think the carb would work. Just be careful, some of your testing looks pretty forceful and that may have caused further damage.
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I get this. I stretch and lie on a foam roller under the offending body part. The foam roller hurts like hell if you havn't used it for a while, but it does make a difference.
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For file handles I just use bits of seasoned hazel wood. I have made loads of them. Wirewool off the rough bark, chop to size, round off the end that goes in your palm with a belt sander, drill holes. Very comfortable and free!
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I've tried the 2 in 1 system and I think a separate round file and a flat file does a better job. you can see what you are doing better. Get the right round file for your chain. Use or make handles for your files. Always use a sharp file - if in doubt just bin it - its so much easier to sharpen with a fresh file. Take your time and have good lighting. Mount the chainsaw bar in a vice. Look at the shape of a new tooth and replicate it. I sharpen everything by hand, up to 36 inch bar.
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Yes I know what you mean. I also use a flat edge, or both together, the flat edge and the digital spirit level, because its magnetic.
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I've never used one. I generally clean the bar first in soapy water. Then I use a flat file to take off any burs, then I have a good look for squareness with a mini set square and flatness with a piece of aluminium. I also use a magnetic spirit level on the bar, knowing my vice and workbench are perfectly level. I bang dings with a hammer. Finally once flat, I remove the tracks in the rails where the teeth run.
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I have the expensive Makita one. I got sucked into the Makita LXT system because that is who I bought my first battery drill (and battery) from years ago ! Its called XPG01Z and I have to say its excellent. I stuck with manual guns for years, telling everyone the electric ones were just a gimmick, but wow do they make a difference. It has some auto mode which senses when the pressure increases and the cavity is full of grease. This really makes greasing a one handed operation and is fantastic for when you are lying on your back under the loader trying to reach all the awkward grease points.
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I agree that the vacuums are a bit rubbish unless you have OCD and need to collect every last leaf in a small garden. It needs to be perfectly dry and the bag fills up fast.
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You could use a dowel jig (picture below) to make perfectly circular handles for rakes or similar? The widest Ive made were 1 inch wide, but I can't see why you couldn't go wider. I used a second piece of wood with a hole on the outturn side to help with the alignment. I used a drill to turn the wood and a very sharp chisel.
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I also use engine oil in a few of those vintage manual oil pumps. Yes engine oil is a bit tacky, but for oiling tools, trailer hitches, pulleys or ratchet straps its fine. Probably cheaper than WD40, which I go through gallons of otherwise. Also I use it in my aux oiler for chainsaw milling. Aux oil doesn't need to go round the bar, so anti-fling additives are not needed. It definitely makes the cutting faster.
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I dont think thats a crime. The way I think about it, not all the oil is removed at an oil change, at least a film and probably some puddles are left. Brands must get mixed the whole time surely?
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super interesting thanks. I guess it wouldn't be that hard to experiment by mixing heated intake air with cooler air (to give varying temperatures) to see what happened. Rather like mixing valves do, between the flow and return water of a biomass boiler. You get problems if the return water is too cold.
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sorry my typo. What i was trying to say was I got a bit lost with those two posts. I dont really buy the concept of an air supply cooling the (post burn) exhaust and flue, condensation and needing fans to improve the draft. What i was trying to say was that biomass boilers, which are the peak of design and efficiency (by both of your measures) and they have an extreme external air supply and dont have these issues. hope that makes sense.
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Sorry I'm a bit following the last two posts here?. My understanding was that the most efficient wood burners are the biomass central heating systems. These have fans but not in the flue, in the body of the burner to supercharge the burning process. Granted they are burning all the time, unlike a stove. Interestingly my ecoangus actually burns downwards - the fans initially push the exhaust downwards before they rise naturally and the heat is extracted via the tabulators.
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Yea but once I'd bought 25l and used some, it was too late and I'd rather rescue it with diesel. I don't think this affects the additives. My take on bar oil is that the base oil is one massive compromise - too thick and it will bung up the pipes and too light and it will fling off the bar. The additives give it a little extra boost so that it has increased ability to stick to the bar nose for a given viscosity. Also as described above an adjustable oiler helps to correct for any system problems or allow you to get away with thinner oil.
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Ive posted here about this but Ive had a lot of bar oiling problems recently on older Stihl chainsaws with Stihl bars. These are professional saws with adjustable oilers that I have set to max. I've done all the usual problem solving, cleaning out the tank, lines and pump etc. but ultimately I had to open up the oiler holes on the bar as they weren't aligning properly. Bar oiling problems are a right pain and a good way to wreak bars. I found that thinning the oil with diesel was helpful.
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Probably not. But I have repaired a rake handle with a slanted brake by splicing in a new bit of wood across the join. It helps if the handle is totally straight. I've used a router to make a square groove in the handle then forced in a new piece of wood. Lots of glue, clamps, plane off the excess wood then whip. In theory glued wood can get stronger than the original, because you are mixing up the grain directions, sort of like composite wood.
