Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Yes, I presume as the clutch is reverse threaded, in a post-acceleration phase the clutch could spin "forward" faster than the engine and undo. Presumably the clutch then needs to pop the clip off and it runs across the floor away from you? As said I have never had this issue, but I never rev much and after a clutch removal I make sure it first gets used with bar and cover on and a chain brake to tighten it fully.
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I have done this often to test oiling and never had a problem (granted for short periods and only a little throttle beyond idle). And not if the clutch had just been taken off.
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Sorry if this is basic, but have you ran it without the bar and chain on to see where the oil spews out? If its coming out of the hole that lines up with the bar that's what its meant to do. Unless the saw has an adjustable oiler (I don't think it does) there is not much you can do. When you say spewing, can you be a bit more specific? All saws will leak bar oil to some extent if oil is left in the tank, 50ml or so. You could try draining the tank, leaving the saw in a different orientation or a more viscous oil. Personally I buy chain oil in bulk, put adjustable oilers at max and don't worry about it. Resting saws on cardboard to soak oil up works quite well. The opposite of too little oil is way worse!
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Some helpful stuff, but it annoys me when stove fitters "bash open fires" to promote installing modern stoves. We're all on the same team here. Yes open fires can be fuel inefficient, but they are part of the heritage of older properties and clay lined flues can easily work flawlessly for 200 years. Will stoves and metal liners last that long? For old but well maintained rural properties, I have no issue with the occasional open fire for family gatherings etc. I would be sad if kids never got the chance to enjoy "open fire TV" on a winter evening. Apologies for the rant.
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Great, its strange how saws you have had for years and only thought of as a workhorse become collectable. Hopefully someone will be able to fix the metal case. Everything else works fine.
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Nothing really, unless someone strays into CHP! Yes I don't have an EV and am not really interested in export, nor trading power (charging batteries at off-peak to export at peak) etc. Selfishly I see this at solving someone else's problem and the export prices aren't good enough yet. I'm aiming to have battery simply to keep power back from the average day to cover the average night's usage (or if that's not possible simply reduce winter peak power usage).
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I had the PV installed last year and am currently looking at battery systems from Giv energy or My energy. Yes I am procrastinating about the cost (dropping VAT has helped) but its also quite hard to size the system properly because Octopus havn't installed a smart meter yet (grrr!).
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Just as an update to this seal leak, I'm afraid to say this chainsaw is RIP and sold for parts on Ebay (its unbelievable what people will pay). I got the clutch-side seal replaced fine, but the flywheel-side simply would not seal. It was leaking on the outside of the seal where it meets the metal of the body. On inspection, I found a chip and crack in the metal of the saw body. I swear this is an old problem (covered by dirt) and not caused by me pulling out the seal. I probably could have bodged some kind of repair with epoxy, but I would never really be happy with it. Its frustrating that I wasted money on seals, but I learned a bit more about saw disassembly. I've bought a three year old 261, so now I need to learn about coping with Mtronic!
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Because you say kwh, I presume you are just referring to the cost of batteries? I was trying to look at the total cost - PV panels, inverter and batteries. Granted every installation is different - mine are on a shed rather than my house which makes the installation simpler, but requires a longer cable. My only stipulation was I didn't want a tesla battery because I think Elon is a pr1ck. Ah so the fact its DIY will explains the reduced cost, nice 1.
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Interesting. Are you sure that £6k quote is correct? From the cost of mine, other quotes, your quote, your daughter's quote, I expect solar to to come out at about £3k per kw of generating capacity. This ignores VAT (which many can reclaim and its been dropped for battery storage now) and assumes the cost of inverter (maybe slightly overloaded) and about double the battery storage so 10kwh for a 5kw system. £6k for a 5kw system would be ridiculously cheap. Thanks
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Its a complex problem, but local multiple source of microgeneration and batteries have to be part of the solution. A friend of mine has had a small hydro for 10 years now and doesn't buy any electricity between October and March. When solar goes in soon, he'll be almost totally off-grid. Hopefully the cost will come down.
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No need necessarily for a mityvac if its a big leak. Leaks in the crank seals and not always visible. Try a bicycle pump or blowing air from your mouth through a tube into the impulse line with everything else sealed off. Dunk the saw under water to identify the leak.
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Have you tried a pressure test with the saw under water in a large sink? Best to apply pressure through the impulse line. When the pressure is there, rotate the crank, wiggle the impulse line and poke the intake book. In my experience, water is the best way to find stubborn crank case leaks. Then dry the saw off and try the same for vacuum (best to not do this under water). As described if both pass, the carburetor isn't providing enough fuel so clean the carb fuel gauze, clean below and check the adjustment of the needle, spray cleaner down the H and L pipes. Soaking is better for the carb than compressed air, which can damage the carb.
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True, you could also use a kiln and be there in two weeks. I prefer a slower process that involves the wood getting rained on outside for a year then brought indoors for a year. But then I do have lots of space and a telehandler. I would love to see some proper scientific analysis of emissions from various logs that had had different treatments.
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That would make sense if you had a serious air leak somewhere in the crankcase as as spud says. This leak makes the engine over rev at idle, putting the choke on will cut off the air, compensating somewhat. Block off the saw as described above and pressure test the saw under water. You'll find the leak easily.
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Meths and then hot water and detergent for the parts you can remove.
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Its all about fuel quality and burning dry wood. If you burn wood that has been split and seasoned for a few years outside then brought inside in the summer, it barely produces any smoke at all.
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I have the mityvac pressure and vacuum kit and would recommend it. It also has a good range of bungs and tubes to help get the test set up. The key is you want to block all but one port into the crankcase which you use to introduce pressure and vacuum. I generally introduce pressure through the impulse line. I put the spark plug in. I use rubber inner tube to block the intake and exhaust port. The screws/bolts that attach the muffler or carb can be really helpful. Also dunking the pressurized saw can help reveal the source of an issue. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mityvac-MV8500-Silverline-Pres-Metal/dp/B0002SQYUA
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Is the carb H and L at factory settings, idle screw not engaged at all? Is the fuel line split, that could leak air too? Pull it out and try and blow through it and bend it around a bit to look for cracks. It would also be worth doing a pressure test of the crankcase. I find the best way to do this is remove the muffler, block up the intake and exhaust ports with blocks of wood and inner tube. I then send air through the impulse line.
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You say the machines are hard to start when warm. Are you sure its pure vapour lock (fuel boiling in the lines/carb) rather than fuel delivery issues? Does loosening the fuel cap help? Is the fuel tank vent clear?
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I've cut an old pair of chaps into strips. These hang down from my felt hat to my chest and will catch and instantly stop the chain in a kickback situation. Then you can remove the chain brake entirely, taking the weight ratio to the next level.
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or you could use one in each hand.
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Too late, I've ordered a puller, for £5! This gorilla whacking approach has yet to work for me. I had to borrow a puller last time. I probably have weak office fingers. Yes I have a few ideas to approach the lip (good idea about lube) I'll see what the lip looks like when the seal is off. No rush here. I am militant about pressure/vac testing which should help confirm if the seal is good.
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What will an ash woodland look like in 10 years time?
Muddy42 replied to 5lab's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
My only experience of this is areas of Scotland that have suffered from phytophthora ramorum outbreaks to larch plantations. Here if you had forestry within a targeted exclusion zone, the FC would identify the disease (often with helicopters) and would then issue a felling order to fell all larch trees within 200m of an outbreak within two months. In practice, huge flexibility was given to the timing and forestry plans (so you could fell a practical amount) and various grants (felling restocking etc.) were available. I don't think the landowners complained, but it is sad that we now don't have larch as a diversifier against sitka spruce and other conifers that look pretty similar. Obviously this is different from dead ash because the timber has a commercial value. -
Right so it is leaking out of the clutch side crank seal. This is a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AVS. Other than this, the saw runs well, has compression and piston looks good, so I would like to try and save it. I have not replaced seals before so any advice gladly received. Is it possible to replace these seals without cracking the case? I don't like the look of the ridge (in the photo below) that you need to get the seal over. Ideally I'd like to replace both seals and buy a flywheel puller for the other side. Thanks
