Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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It depends! If I was to spend over a grand on a saw Id expect it to last more than ten years and to always have a resale value. I might use my 50cc saws all day, but the bigger ones only get used for a few cuts and are only carried from the truck, so I really don't care about the weight.
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I can see the stump you removed. Are you sure they are not talking about the other stump as well that you didn't remove, shown closer to the path in your photo?
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Trust in government is at an all time low at a time when the size of the 'government' is at an all time high. Government spending is now over 50% of GDP (when you account for PFI), a lot of which is to the benefit of retirees (health, elderly care, pensions) paid for by fewer workers and a dire education system for the very young. We have more layers of politicians (MEPs, MSPs, MPs, mayors, regional assemblies), more and more public servants with their gold plated pensions. Personally I think we need a fundamental rethink about the size of government, its purpose and what it can achieve.
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Interesting. I've heard rave reviews about the MS400. Personally I've always been a fan of 50cc saws for light work, so 65-ish cc saws never felt enough of a step up.
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I stand what I said before something doesn't seem right here or different parts have been used. Regarding fuel lines they normally perish long before any damage. Were the fuel lines replaced with generic pipe of a wider diameter maybe? Did the extra insulation fix the dying issue?
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Lucky you, its amazing wood with a fine grain that feels like ivory and takes a thread well. I process and store my own. Generally people use it for small stuff - tool handles, pens, knife handles, small boxes etc. so Id just store as large logs. I don't find it splits much and the bark protects the wood well, Id just spray the ends.
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Interesting, you certainly seem to be chasing new problems around this saw! Is this a wind up? Firstly, the cylinder metal is harder than the spark plug cable, so that metal damage is caused by something else. Incidentally is this an aftermarket cylinder or original? If the parts are original, you should not need to consider removing metal to get the cable to fit. Something is not right here. Is there any text or markings on the cylinder? Could this saw be a mishmash of parts. If the cylinder matches and the tape causes the issue to go away, replace the cable (it must have been shorting to the cylinder) and just make sure you always route the cable correctly in future. Maybe once the cable was mis-routed causing this damage.
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not necessarily, one of my saws is really badly scored but has compression and starts fine. Id isolate the kill switch next as above.
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Yes that sounds slightly different from your original explanation. - Can you examine the kill switch for issues with the cover off? A small bit of metal may be bent out of place. - Can you the disconnect the master switch and start the saw? When you do this, obviously take care and you need to block the air intake to kill the saw afterwards. I wouldn't expect a lose electrical connection issue to only happen when the saw is hot - vibrations and movement would have a more immediate effect. When you replaced the cylinder gasket, you should have pressure and vac tested the saw. If you the electrical tests above fail, I would check all of the rubber parts (inlet boot, fuel line, impulse line) then pressure and vac test the whole cylinder. Also while you are at it check the piston isn't scored. Air leaks can manifest themselves in weird ways and this is the only way to be sure. I would do this test before spending money on an old saw.
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Annual always for me, but my vehicles are older. I might be wrong, but I'm not sure the computers can tell when there has been an oil and filter change. So if you don't reset anything and get a garage to do the recommended less frequent services, how can your warranty can be affected?
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Presumably, looking at this from the top and/or bottom of your picture, the bung would be round? If so you need someone with a fairly large lathe. Mine is not big enough.
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Thanks, that's what I am worried about - that the queen will survive. I think I'll get a cheap bee suit and remove everything in the depths of winter.
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I think it is pretty clear that your neighbour is in the wrong having cut branches on your side of the boundary. However the chances of you winning a case are pretty slim and there is no point in falling out with him. Also the damage is done now. I would simply make sure the neighbour is made aware of the law in this situation and politely say that if the tree doesn't recover, it would be appreciated if he would replace it like for like. Still if he declines, replace the tree yourself and move on.
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I have a huge wasps nest under my roof area, in an area that is quite warm and centrally heated. Is it the cold that kills off wasps or do they die naturally every year? I'm nervous these ones might not leave and I have roofing work to do next year. I know there were wasps there last year, but I can't be sure it was the exact same nest. I want to remove it over the winter and spray some "chemicals" in the area to make it less attractive to wasps in the future. Should I wear a bee suit as well? Any advice appreciated.
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Yes the thinking being that you can still damage a saw in the time it takes the tachometer to refresh for the H jet. However I am a cheapskate and very rarely use a tachometer. I also do not push saws anywhere near the max (at least 1000 rpms lower than max) and the default carb settings generally get pretty close. Personally for this type of use (as a check) I think a 1 sec refresh one is fine. L jet and idle doesn't require a tach, but even if you use one here, 1 sec refresh is fine.
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I didn't get on with rotatech bar oil (and I have posted here about it). It caused my bar sprockets to seize up which has been quite expensive to resolve. If you are still keen I'll give you a good price for the 17 odd litres I have left?
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So far labour have succeeded in annoyed a fair proportion of the 'grafters' of the country, e.g. employees (NIC=tax), business owners (CGT), bankers (carried interest and VAT on school fees) and farmers (IHT). Let's see.
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In electric, I've used both Stihl MSA 300 and Husqvarna 540i - both excellent for small short jobs. But be under no allusions, some manufacturers say their electric chainsaws have the same power as a 50cc saw, but personally in my experience they feel more like a 35 cc petrol chainsaw. Who knows why, you'd have to examine the test parameters - chain width etc.. But (again subjectively) my petrol MS 261 feels way more powerful/faster/lasts longer that either.
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Rather than set up the £1m threshold Id much rather they tightened up the definition of BPR / APR so that speculators like Dyson wasn't able to speculate on the back of being able to claim the relief. You should only be able to claim it if you are an active farmer that drives a landrover, always waterproof trousers and smells of poo.
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Plus the average age of farmer is pretty high about 60, so IHT is a near term worry. Many havn't done any financial planning or were relying on this relief. Life insurance to pay for the IHT might make sense when you are younger, but premiums get more expensive as you get older. What really annoys me is that often land/asset values have been driven by non-farming forces (forestry, renewables, carbon, second home ownership) all the while farming remains generally unprofitable. If farmers gift the assets to their children now, they still could be liable for CGT.
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Husqvarna 555 RXT Brushcutter - fuel cap is very very stiff to turn
Muddy42 replied to Muddy42's topic in Maintenance help
I'll do it outside and before the 5th November ! -
Husqvarna 555 RXT Brushcutter - fuel cap is very very stiff to turn
Muddy42 replied to Muddy42's topic in Maintenance help
For weeks the fuel tank has been empty, cap off and fuel line detached. carb was run dry. -
Husqvarna 555 RXT Brushcutter - fuel cap is very very stiff to turn
Muddy42 replied to Muddy42's topic in Maintenance help
I'll check that aswell, thanks Im still at work, but I've been thinking. Maybe the plastic would re-mould with heat? I could heat up the fuel tank thread with a hair dryer and screw on the cap to get a better fit. -
Husqvarna 555 RXT Brushcutter - fuel cap is very very stiff to turn
Muddy42 replied to Muddy42's topic in Maintenance help
Thanks. Yes £60 - £80 (not sure about VAT or delivery) and quite a fiddle to replace. As long as the distortion is even and circular, Id almost rather butcher the old cap to make it fit. If it leaks or still have to replace the fuel tank, then Ive not really wasted anything. -
Husqvarna 555 RXT Brushcutter - fuel cap is very very stiff to turn
Muddy42 replied to Muddy42's topic in Maintenance help
Not really. I've just shared a picture of the old one. Yes it has an o ring but it is very deep in there. It feels like the threads are getting tight before it hits the o ring. Maybe its not clear in the photo but there are threads on the wall of the cap and a white central core. I've just checked, the diameter of the white core has clearance to the inside of the fuel tank neck, so it cant be binding. Now that I am the proud owner of two of these caps, I suppose it wouldn't be a loss to butcher one of the caps. I could file back the female threads of the cap and see of that made a difference?
