Muddy42

Scottish land ownership is pretty murky. Its much harder to work out who owns land, there are a lots of murky community ownership tenures around, the owners can hide bheind companys, trusts or nominees and far more of it is not on a modern map-based registration system. Are worried about trees falling on houses or roads? I think you have a two options. - Pay a solicitor that specialises in land ownership to work out who the owner is. - pay for a tree survey to give to the council or discuss with your house insurers

OK. ffs the price has gone up in the past two years. this is what I have and I would recommend it. Mityvac Silverline Vac/Pres Metal Pump Kit MV8500 646541004116 | eBay UK WWW.EBAY.CO.UK All images shown are for illustration purpose only. Silverline Vac/Pres Metal Pump Kit. just make sure you get one that does vacuum as well as pressure. Mityvac do a similar pressure only tester that I bought by accident first time round.

I have a mityvac which costs about £80. Yes these testers have a huge range of uses aside from p&v in two and four strokes. I prefer a separate gauge for compression testing. Also bleeding brakes, finding leaks, draining fluids, draining old engine oil, unblocking central heating oil pipes - just some of the uses I have put mine too

OK, as above my guess is the trigger sensor. But, I still don't think you can rule out an air leak until you have p&v tested the fuel lines, carb and cylinder. My understanding is that autotune can mask problems and compensate the fuel mix so the saw doesn't blow up as quickly as old saws did. Also I find spraying carb cleaner at a saw doesn't always reveal problems. You could roll the dice and DIY replace the sensor at £40 if the alternative was the labour of a repair person.

Maybe obvious, but try running the saw briefly with the top cover off. You might be able to see if one of the throttle parts isn't working.

I got fed up after both a Husqvarna and an Oregon one failed and leaked. I now just use an 5L aspen can filled with pump fuel and a 5L oregon chain oil can. Both pour really well without a funnel if you keep them at about 3/4 full. But I'm normally never far from a vehicle.

Good plan. Replacing seals is pretty advanced and easy to cock up (I know!) One of the few DIY repairs I outsource.

I think this stove has two air controls: 1. primary air control. This lets in lots of air through the front. Use this is to get the stove lit and not for extended burning. 2. Airwash. This lets in less air in a strip across the door. This flows downwards and keeps the glass door clean and then cycles through the fire. If the primary control wont close, yes this will disrupt the airwash and the door will get dirty. But also thats not safe as the stove could overheat. query with the installer.

It claims to be 52cc, but who knows. By all means buy this object if you like gambling with your money and are prepared to throw it away after a few uses. Not personally. Bosch used to make good stuff in the 90s, gone downhill since.

Genuinely, I wouldn't accept any of the tools you have listed if you gave them to me free. Its all un-branded rubbish that will end us as landfill. As to the wattage of the strimmers, neither is powerful enough. You need a 45cc machine which is over 2,000 watts. I can't find this question anywhere. Try your local facebook jobs page.

You have had more than enough good advice here. Ring up your local hire place and ask for a strimmer/brushcutter/clearing saw with an engine more than 45cc in size and with a metal blade, ideally mulching blade, but others will work. I wouldn't waste your money buying non-branded two stroke machinery, generally they dont last.

Nothing about cutting brambles is pleasant. I find if you go at them too aggressively with the brushcutter, they get tangled round the shaft. I like using an up/down motion to slowly pulverize them. Also reversing a flail mower into bramble bushes seems to work quite well!

Brushcutters & Strimmers For Hire WWW.HSSTOOLSHOP.CO.UK Powerful, heavy duty brushcutters designed to quickly and efficiently cut undergrowth, vegetation and long grass even in the most awkward of places what about this? £25 per day

As above, rent a petrol brush cutter >45 cc with a metal blade attached.

Sitka is great firewood. I've occasionally had a half lorry load from nearby forestry when they don't want to transport it across the country. Then its been all ive burned for months. You should be able to burn that wood in the winter of 2026, if its brought under cover with good airflow, during a dry spell next summer.

I guess as a camping stove there is always going to be the temptation to forage wild wood or driftwood, rather than carrying it yourself. Fur trappers in 19th century Canada could travel around in the snow indefinitely as long as they had a tent stove to dry out their boots and kit at night. You should be able to scrub out that flue pretty easily with one of those drill based chimney brushes. Id remove that cowl thing on top of the flue and try a straight pipe.

Thanks for letting everyone know and Im glad its been a success. I have a tow behind the quad flail made by chapman and i'm very pleased with it. I guess that at 25hp, the power at the flail will be pretty similar to your setup. Solidly built and easy to grease and work on.

All wood will burn if dry. Green wood left in an open sided shed will dry but not many people have the storage for that. A system where wood is left outside for a year then inside for a few months works well. I don't need a moisture meter to know that the logs shown in your last photo are not seasoned and probably still green. There should be deep cracks and the bark should be splitting off.

If you are self-installing you might already be offside. England is stricter than Scotland. In England the installer needs to be HETAS registered to comply with building regs. Plus your house insurance may have a view on this. If a pro is doing it, its up to them what test they do. Or you can self install and get someone to check it afterwards. Even if you clean your chimney yourself you should also employ a sweep occasionally to ensure a paper trail and cover yourself. But rules aside, personally I don't see the need. Make sure you comply with the stove's installation requirements and crack on. you get a good feel for whether the draft is adequate by using it. Or you can see if the stove will pull a candle flame towards it. The other tests are whether the flue carry smoke properly and it doesn't end up in the attic or coming out other chimneys. Then there is a spillage tests - does the stove leak smoke from fire cement, seams or door seals.

Why do you want one and whats your setup, if you don't mind me asking? Draft tests need to performed under very specific conditions, specified in the stove manual and the manufacturer may need it performed by a professional to believe you have an issue. But ultimately it just gives you a number for problems you can spot without a manometer. Low draft symptoms would be smoking when lighting or opening the door, hard to keep going, smell when not lit etc. You might have a problem with the liner or it needs to be insulated. Maybe the flue is too short (<4m). maybe a down draft is being created by overhanging hills or trees. Maybe its a modern house that is sealed or there are competing drafts (dryer, extractor fans). you can just live with a marginal draft by using firelighters, getting the chimney hot quickly with a burst of newspaper or opening a window and always burning hot with less fuel. If the draft is too high your fuel doesn't last, the fire is difficult to control, the stove gets too hot or even gets damaged. In my experience the low draft is much more common these days, especially in today's eco conscious world, where designers try to minimize the amount of heat going up the chimney, which is effectively what causes draft in the first place. Think of it like an engine, you sometimes help things by helping air to get in and out as exhaust. Modifications need to be done with caution to home insurance etc.

I think I can tell when fuel lines are getting brittle, with the carb disconnected. I clean the engine then give the lines a poke around under good light. Cracks will open up when moved but also the rubber feels hard not supple. I've always assumed the fuel line will perish first, because its constantly exposed to fuel. So if it shows cracks, I'll replace all the rubber - boots, carb kit etc. I've done this a few times on two strokes and less often on four strokes.

Stubby, is there a way to clean out these carbon deposits without removing the cylinder? Personally I use alkylate in the infrequently used tools and fresh pump fuel in two 'everyday' newer brushcutters and chainsaw. At the end of the grass season the strimmer gets run dry then run on a bit of alkalate before servicing and storage.

As above, I always just start by giving the carb a clean, remove and clean needle valve and just replacing the diaphragms and pump. I check that the fuel inlet pipe will hold light pressure and vacuum. Generally this is all they need and I don't go any deeper into welch plugs etc. I've had some that still leak and then its a case of finding the leak.

I've stopped bothering with breakdown cover. Often all they do is subcontract the work to local garages. You get to the same position by cutting out the middle man, going on google maps and finding a local garage or recovery service that will come and collect the car and take you to a garage. Then get a taxi home.

As above, flush it out and disassemble as much as possible. Then run the saw with diesel as bar oil for a while. When you know that diesel has been pulled onto the bar, leave the saw and restart it a few hours later. This has solved many oiling issues for me.