Muddy42

compression is a peak value, so you could still have a ring leak or a stuck valve etc. even the oil itself can contribute to the compression.

Yes, there are a few things that could go cause excess fuel when you cleaned out the carb, or reassembled the choke or governor. BUT I would have thought a carb fuel issue would affect both cylinders equally. I would try soaking the piston. If all else fails, replacing the engine will require removal anyway, so you might aswell give this a go and tackle the crankcase side. It takes time, but technically is not that difficult. Just remember the order that everything goes in and the timing marks.

I am definitely no expert, but I did successfully rebuild my first B&S v twin last summer. I am a bit unclear about what you have been doing. You but you can strip down a v twin from two directions: 1. underneath the engine you can remove the single crankcase cover. this accesses a large area of sump, oil and the single camshaft, compression release, timed cogs etc. 2. Behind each of the two cylinders. Taking off the two valve covers accesses the valves and rockers etc. Then you can again go behind each of these to get to each of the two heads and pistons where the combustion happens. which route have you taken?

I am so confused by this thread! Sometimes my 120cc Stihl 088 struggles to mill knotty hardwood with a 36 inch bar and goes slow. A 65cc husky, all battery saws and any mains electric chainsaw will not pull a conventional 36 inch chainsaw bar. Bandsaw-type sawmills work with smaller motors because the bar is narrower.

bummer. Assuming you are not using the mower anytime soon, why not try soaking the pistons, which might free up stuck rings? You can try various light oils sea foam or even petrol itself. squirt fluid through the spark plug holes, soak, rotate, suck out the fluid, repeat with another mystery oil, etc.

Its my eyesight that is the limiting factor with 1/4" chain!

Personally I thing you need two chargers for 12v batteries. - A small smart charger 1 to 5A to trickle charge and top up relatively healthy batteries. - For big 12v batteries (tractors etc.) or really depleted batteries you need an old fashioned large capacity non-smart charger. Mine is so old I can't read the label to see what the amperage is anymore, but it really wakes up old batteries. but I try not to leave it on for too long.

Was the battery left outside or very cold by any chance? Maybe try bringing into the warmth for a while before charging.

not jesting but its difficult to prove either way unless you can time travel? Lifespan depends on hours of use, style of use, maintenance and a bit of chance. I used to just go for pro saws but even they can fail. Ive recently realised that there is value in having a small cheap saw as part of the collection. I can lend it out and if it fails it doesnt matter as much. I too had a 028 that lasted 20 years until there was an issue with the crank and seals, and an 088 that is still going but I think larger engines always tend to last longer. Im not convinced today’s MS saws are as tough as the 0-somethings , but we’ll see. My piston is already a bit scored after 3 years and Ive had to replace a lot of parts.

More power but also more weight. If you are only cutting small stuff, 35cc is ideal. also will it last 5 times as long? i have owned both. The 161 lasted 5 years, im not sure my 261 will last 25 years.

I find the professional versus consumer saw debate is a tricky one. If just looking at price when new say a Stihl MS162 is £160 versus a Stihl MS261 at £850 (professional saw). You could buy 5 of them for the same price. If you are not good at maintenance, replacing parts and/or wreak a consumer saw, there is a lot less to cry about.

i'll give it a miss then. Nothing drives me mad than proprietary equipment that you can't work on. New cars and dealer only stuff but also I lived in a house for a while where the previous owners burglar alarm company refused to give me the admin code and tried to put me on an annual contract just for changing batteries and vacuuming dust out of the sensors. I won in the end, the previous owner was under contract not me.

I prefer putting a carb kit in a genuine carbs to non-genuine replacement. You could try that. Does the tunning change when you tilt the machine in different positions? That and erratic revving could be an air leak. I'd P&V test.

Not sure, it made no sense. I immediately modified it. Maybe everything was meant to be held in the supplied vice?

There is no right or wrong answer with bar lengths but that sounds a bit extreme. I can't remember if the 365 is 65 or 70 is CC, but the old rule of dividing the cc by 3 is about right, which would be 23, so it sounds like you are already pushing it at 28 inches. Personally for a 36 inch bar id go for a 90 or 120 cc saw. Also unless you are milling, there are very few situations in the UK where 36 inch bars are essential. If you are milling, this is even tougher for the saw and I would still to a 120 cc saw for a 36 inch bar.

I bought a cheap KATSU Bench Drill Press recently that seemed to have two ON buttons, one of which you needed to keep pressed, so two handed operation. Its now permanently cable tied on.

Yes I've often wondered about CHP. Are these things properly serviceable to an enthusiastic DIY-er? One of things I like about simpler burners like ecoangus is you can take the whole thing apart - turbulators, fans, firebricks, pump etc.

Looks amazing. I burn way more than that already. I mostly store in lengths and then have a few days with a log processor each summer.

Sounds amazing! Id love to have one of those. Maybe when I downsize houses. I think this fear of slumbering, or cold water cooling the boiler, low stove efficiency etc is way too narrow a frame of reference. Your experience shows you can burn the stove hot and clean. Plus you are saving on heating oil/gas/electric.

??????? let's leave it here fella, you totally misunderstand me, I would rip up the all stove regs if I had my way.

I can never work out if you are agreeing or disagreeing or talking about something entirely different? As I said 5 hours ago I would be very happy with existing back boiler stove system that was properly setup with many of the safety features above. My understanding is there are two criticisms against back boiler stoves: - efficiency and clean smoke. current regs are pushing higher efficiency wood stoves that burn fast and hard. Introducing cold(er) water into a stove potentially cools it down which makes this hard to achieve. Personally I'm less concerned about efficiency and cleanliness because I have masses of dry wood and live in the sticks. If there isn't the right mixer value, more thinking is required. - safety. there is a risk that a system will either pressurize, boil if vented or run dry and pipes crack. Again I think all of this is possible to overcome with the right design and safety features. The bigger log central heating systems can dump water, pressure, shut the air right down and some can even extinguish the fire totally. I think the current industry, building regs, stove installers and plumbers etc, are being overly safety conscious and just taking the path of least resistance to push everyone onto leccy.

Fascinating, but I still behind my original assertion. I wish there was more R&D into modern stoves that can also heat water safely without the water cooling the stove down. As you know eco angus do this by controlling the burn with a fan, mix valves to control the return temperature and various safety features to stop overheating or excess pressure. Its not rocket science. I don't think pushing everyone onto electric is a good idea.

Not everyone has room for a boiler room or can afford to install an eco angus. I would just like there to be a middle ground between a £500 stove and a £5k eco angus. Modern stoves burn hotter and harder than older ones, but don't yet incorporate fans. Maybe stoves could include fans that are located outside which then pipe the air inside. Current policy seems to push everyone to electric heating/hot water/cooking, which puts pressure on the grid and generation and is not great in rural areas that suffer from power cuts.

Where is the fun in that. If only eco angus made a nice looking indoor version with a glass door and a quieter fan!

I also think its a shame that regulations have gone against back boilers. Ive always dreamt of having a massive 20kw stove that would heat hot water, radiators, towel rails. Maybe I should learn to braze copper.