Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Top 10 most popular wood-burning and multifuel stoves
Muddy42 replied to BowlandStoves's topic in General chat
it does look good. The problem with my Esse1 is the door and air wash are too close to the top of the stove, causing it to smoke when first lit. Part of the new ecodesign nonesense. Whats the point of a stove that makes the outside air cleaner but causes indoor air pollution? i’ll probably replace it when the right second hand 5 inch flue stove comes up. -
Primer bulb pulling air but not the usual suspects.
Muddy42 replied to jarrick's topic in Maintenance help
As above are you sure the primer is connected the right way? Its short line from (normally the top of the) carb, long line returning to the fuel tank. The fuel line goes from the fuel tank to the bottom of the carb. If the lines are clear, you should see where the bubbles start from? Are you sure the carb was assembled in the correct way? If any of the diaphragms ripped, it could benefit from a carb kit. You can pressure test a carb, but do it gently to avoid breaking stuff. You don't need a pressure tester for this, if you blow with your mouth on the fuel line you get an idea if the pressure is dropping. -
Chainsaw? I only use that for storm clearance. The majority of my firewood gets stored as lengths then in June every I process it with a hired grab and a 12 tonne splitter with conveyor belt. I burn the splitter offcuts and sawdust myself. The only manual handling is carrying it to the stove from the grain sack. I cant think of anything worse than briquettes - packaged, expensive, unnatural and un cosy.
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I'm from a different end of the country, but I'd try local sawmills, firewood suppliers or timber haulage companies. Scope out anywhere where trees are being felled, sometimes they will have a half load or some types of poorer grade timber that the sawmill doesn't want. If the wood is green, technically it needs to be delivered with a statutory notice on how to store and dry it.
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The ceramic tile stove sounds amazing! I'm afraid I cant think of anything worse than wood briquettes- all that processing, packaging and the cost. I'm very luck to have the space and time to enjoy making firewood. This is a great read: Norwegian Wood: Chopping, Stacking, and Drying Wood the Scandinavian Way
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Some people disagree with this, but personally I like a combination of outdoor and indoor seasoning. The weathering (rain, sun and wind) effect is always stronger outside. Then you bring it inside for the final few months. By the time is ready, I can barely tell what species it is.
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A worn sprocket can cause symptoms like this.
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Dangerous Trees on "Unclaimed" Land (Scotland)
Muddy42 replied to BofA.Trees's topic in Trees and the Law
Scottish land ownership is pretty murky. Its much harder to work out who owns land, there are a lots of murky community ownership tenures around, the owners can hide bheind companys, trusts or nominees and far more of it is not on a modern map-based registration system. Are worried about trees falling on houses or roads? I think you have a two options. - Pay a solicitor that specialises in land ownership to work out who the owner is. - pay for a tree survey to give to the council or discuss with your house insurers -
OK. ffs the price has gone up in the past two years. this is what I have and I would recommend it. Mityvac Silverline Vac/Pres Metal Pump Kit MV8500 646541004116 | eBay UK WWW.EBAY.CO.UK All images shown are for illustration purpose only. Silverline Vac/Pres Metal Pump Kit. just make sure you get one that does vacuum as well as pressure. Mityvac do a similar pressure only tester that I bought by accident first time round.
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I have a mityvac which costs about £80. Yes these testers have a huge range of uses aside from p&v in two and four strokes. I prefer a separate gauge for compression testing. Also bleeding brakes, finding leaks, draining fluids, draining old engine oil, unblocking central heating oil pipes - just some of the uses I have put mine too
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OK, as above my guess is the trigger sensor. But, I still don't think you can rule out an air leak until you have p&v tested the fuel lines, carb and cylinder. My understanding is that autotune can mask problems and compensate the fuel mix so the saw doesn't blow up as quickly as old saws did. Also I find spraying carb cleaner at a saw doesn't always reveal problems. You could roll the dice and DIY replace the sensor at £40 if the alternative was the labour of a repair person.
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Maybe obvious, but try running the saw briefly with the top cover off. You might be able to see if one of the throttle parts isn't working.
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I got fed up after both a Husqvarna and an Oregon one failed and leaked. I now just use an 5L aspen can filled with pump fuel and a 5L oregon chain oil can. Both pour really well without a funnel if you keep them at about 3/4 full. But I'm normally never far from a vehicle.
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Good plan. Replacing seals is pretty advanced and easy to cock up (I know!) One of the few DIY repairs I outsource.
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I think this stove has two air controls: 1. primary air control. This lets in lots of air through the front. Use this is to get the stove lit and not for extended burning. 2. Airwash. This lets in less air in a strip across the door. This flows downwards and keeps the glass door clean and then cycles through the fire. If the primary control wont close, yes this will disrupt the airwash and the door will get dirty. But also thats not safe as the stove could overheat. query with the installer.
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- black glass
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It claims to be 52cc, but who knows. By all means buy this object if you like gambling with your money and are prepared to throw it away after a few uses. Not personally. Bosch used to make good stuff in the 90s, gone downhill since.
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Genuinely, I wouldn't accept any of the tools you have listed if you gave them to me free. Its all un-branded rubbish that will end us as landfill. As to the wattage of the strimmers, neither is powerful enough. You need a 45cc machine which is over 2,000 watts. I can't find this question anywhere. Try your local facebook jobs page.
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You have had more than enough good advice here. Ring up your local hire place and ask for a strimmer/brushcutter/clearing saw with an engine more than 45cc in size and with a metal blade, ideally mulching blade, but others will work. I wouldn't waste your money buying non-branded two stroke machinery, generally they dont last.
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Nothing about cutting brambles is pleasant. I find if you go at them too aggressively with the brushcutter, they get tangled round the shaft. I like using an up/down motion to slowly pulverize them. Also reversing a flail mower into bramble bushes seems to work quite well!
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Brushcutters & Strimmers For Hire WWW.HSSTOOLSHOP.CO.UK Powerful, heavy duty brushcutters designed to quickly and efficiently cut undergrowth, vegetation and long grass even in the most awkward of places what about this? £25 per day
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As above, rent a petrol brush cutter >45 cc with a metal blade attached.
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Sitka is great firewood. I've occasionally had a half lorry load from nearby forestry when they don't want to transport it across the country. Then its been all ive burned for months. You should be able to burn that wood in the winter of 2026, if its brought under cover with good airflow, during a dry spell next summer.
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I guess as a camping stove there is always going to be the temptation to forage wild wood or driftwood, rather than carrying it yourself. Fur trappers in 19th century Canada could travel around in the snow indefinitely as long as they had a tent stove to dry out their boots and kit at night. You should be able to scrub out that flue pretty easily with one of those drill based chimney brushes. Id remove that cowl thing on top of the flue and try a straight pipe.
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Looking for flail for small tractor
Muddy42 replied to Alan Smith's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Thanks for letting everyone know and Im glad its been a success. I have a tow behind the quad flail made by chapman and i'm very pleased with it. I guess that at 25hp, the power at the flail will be pretty similar to your setup. Solidly built and easy to grease and work on. -
All wood will burn if dry. Green wood left in an open sided shed will dry but not many people have the storage for that. A system where wood is left outside for a year then inside for a few months works well. I don't need a moisture meter to know that the logs shown in your last photo are not seasoned and probably still green. There should be deep cracks and the bark should be splitting off.
