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Muddy42

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Everything posted by Muddy42

  1. Muddy42
    Yup I do that too. I use alkalyte aswell for the infrequently used bits of kit. So I calculate the amount to take it from 50:1 to 40:1. However I'm moving back to Apsen because the cans pour better than motomix and I'm too tight to buy their special funnel.
  2. Muddy42
    Well done. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I use a bit more two stroke oil in aftermarket pistons and cylinders, especially the first tank.
  3. Muddy42
    cordless angle grinder? As above, repairing fences manualyl is pretty soul destroying. Replacing the odd post is fine, but if its more than that (and it must be if the wire is rusting) its getting to the stage of full replacement.
  4. Muddy42
    Look I'll admit its a bit weird. But why did it leave two saws dry as a done and hot within a short space of time. Replacing bars and saws is expensive and not something I want to experiment with. Im going to try gator oil next. Ive used petrol or acetone with a brass wire brush. Horrible job though.
  5. Muddy42
    great I have a look at that one aswell.
  6. Muddy42
    I think youngsters can generally get insured but it just costs the earth - £3k annual premiums etc. Have you considered a van? Van engines tend to be smaller than a truck, which affects the insurance premium.
  7. Muddy42
    Stihl MS261 and MS460. Both saws got clogged up and I had to flush out the tanks, lines and bar oil pumps inside the saws. I had done this before, so its not through lack of maintenance. Its the pretty standard ISO 100 stuff. I admit its a bit odd, they have been fine since I thinned out the bar oil.
  8. Muddy42
    until you buy 25l of something new and unsuitable. I bought 25l of rotatech bar oil. Its too thick so i have to thin it on every refill with diesel.
  9. Muddy42
    good to know thanks
  10. Muddy42
    thanks, but £200 would be too much for the number of tyres I do.
  11. Muddy42
    Generally its re-mounting a new tyre. I can break the beads by getting all the air out then jumping on the tyre. Agreed I use lots of fairy liquid and push the tyre into the centre and any old compressor seems fine. A ratchet strap can also help temporarily force the rims to seat while you put air in.
  12. Muddy42
    thanks. Yes I have a concrete floor in mind that I can bolt it too.
  13. Muddy42
    I change a lot of small tyres - mowers, quad, trailers, wheelbarrow etc. Some tyres I can remove with basic tools, a vice, lubricant and lots of swearing, but some defeat me. The local garage doesn't really like changing small tyres and they have taken two weeks so far to do the last one and no doubt it will be expensive. I can fit valves, tubes, patches, plugs and all the other bodges for non-road use. Can anyone recommend a manual tyre changing tool for small tyres? Something like this? Thanks
  14. Muddy42
    Hire digger for clearing the site, then buy a loader for the build, far more useful.
  15. Muddy42
    It doesnt have a H like a chainsaw just L and idle. The standard setting for L is open one turn, then adjust idle so the cutters dont move. If you cant get to this stage quickly or the machine isnt idling, I’d start looking for air leaks.
  16. Muddy42
    https://www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/instructionmanuals/hs75_80_manual.pdf
  17. Muddy42

    Clutch wear

    Muddy42 replied to lan's topic in Maintenance help

    To be honest, your doing well to get three chains worth of life out of a Husqvarna 135 ! Assuming the saw and bar is OK, I'd clean up the bar, get the rails flat and true and replace the chain and sprocket. The problem is these parts wear together. An worn sprocket will mess up a new chain, a messed up chain will mess up the new sprocket.
  18. Muddy42
    well done. I'm sure you won't be disappointed
  19. Muddy42
    Personally I think you are on the right track. I'd get a battery hedgecutter to match either of your battery systems. I've used the Makita LXT one (DUH506) is excellent. Makita claim it can cut up to 20mm. That said I would keep your battery shears on a toolbelt for the big ones. I dont know the Einhell one or the longreach Makita one. If I was buying longreach it would be petrol. Keep the blades sharp.
  20. Muddy42
    As above, fourstoke engines are for things with wheels and not to be carried. The additional weight just isn't worth it. I hated their 35cc strimmer that I used to have.
  21. Muddy42
    Sorry I imagined the OP was clearing branches. But yes a strimmer and clearing saw is an option for ground work. The only issue I find with strimmer blades, is that eventually you biff a stone or metal and everything goes out of alignment and vibrates. I prefer a big engine and 4mm square string for brambles etc. Replacing string is cheaper than replacing parts. Also kombi tools tend to be sh*te and fail at the junction, dedicated tools are better.
  22. Muddy42
    or a hedge cutter and polesaw chainsaw with the same batteries? You can swipe polesaws around in the same way as a hedge cutter and they will tackle the larger branches with less stress. Its great for cutting off lower growth off lime trees for example.
  23. Muddy42

    stihl ms261c

    Muddy42 replied to Cbr1000's topic in Chainsaws

    Its interesting how people's opinions vary. What's your 'go to' saw now and why?
  24. Muddy42

    stihl ms261c

    Muddy42 replied to Cbr1000's topic in Chainsaws

    Mine has a 14 inch bar which feels just about perfectly balanced for a 50ish cc saw. 20 inch is 70ish territory for me, especially with oak. I’ll cut pretty much up to 2 foot with it, which is ideal for 90% of the work I do. well done. The 261 is a powerful thing that seems to start well and is easy to work on.
  25. Muddy42
    I have a lot of makita LXT battery tools for small jobs and I have to say they are amazing. Not broken one yet. But if I am doing any 'hard work' petrol powered followed by mains electric is the way to go. Battery just doesn't have the power and the components tend to be lighter weight. Alkalyte fuel produces far nicer fumes. Long reach hedge cutters keep the fumes further from the body.

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