Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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These responses scare me a bit, I hope you two don't possess firearms or shotguns? Following various firearms acts, possession of guns is not a right like in the US but a privilege granted by the police, after you have demonstrated you are of good character, submitting character references etc. Abuse it and the police will simply take your guns away with very little ability to appeal, which even then takes years. Put basically it doesn't really matter whether what you do is right or wrong, if the police think you are being reckless, that's it. Firearms are even stricter, you need to demonstrate 'good reason' for use. Guidelines set out that good reasons include sporting, vermin control etc. but explicitly NOT defending yourself or your premises (read section 12.81 of the home office guidelines if you want).
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Maybe in the US but in the UK. Firearms are not allowed to be used for self defence, protection of private property or even threatening to be used on another human.
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On a slight tangent. I have a big Clearview that has developed a warp in the rear wall. Its not that bad, but it makes reattaching the flue harder. Has anyone had any luck straightening out issues like this. I was thinking of some heat and giving it a thump behind a flat surface.
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As above, some type of camera. Is it easy to drain the tank? It be tempted to mix in diesel with something horrible that wont compress and trash the thief's engine - water, brake fluid etc. They will regret stealing the next lot. Or red die then inform the police when you find out who it is!!
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Thanks. On closer inspection, the metal rod is worn (not sure how?) and maybe also the black plastic switch. The gap looks wider than photos of switches online. I’ll glue now and replace later
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Thanks. Do you mean that the choke rod is bent? It feels as straight as an arrow.
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I tried a cable tie but it was no good - I couldn't get it to sit properly and it interfered with the movement of the switch. I had a few ideas: 1) thin heat shrink electrical wrap on the choke lever to bulk it up a bit and make it stay put. 2) Dab of glue gun above the metal to stop it popping out. Not to permanent if this fails or I need to remove the carb. 3) remove and disassemble black plastic switch and heat up the plastic slightly with hot air and increase the ‘crimp’ with pliers to hold the metal better. This would be a bit more permanent, but a new switch is cheap if this was a disaster. Any other ideas? I thought everyone owned a MS 261, someone must have had this issue! Thanks
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sorry I see what he was doing now. Doh, ignore me.
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Thanks. Yes good idea. I could try and get a small cable tie (that's what I call it anyway) around the whole switch. Or if not, I could just glue a piece of cable tie above the metal to stop it jumping out. But Id have to ensure I could work on it in the future. Hmnnn thinking....
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Weird, are you sure you're doing the test right? The working 461 should show continuity. If not, this would mean the coil is not connected to the plug, electricity cannot travel so no spark even if the coil and flywheel are good. In my basic mind, you need an electrical loop - a surge of electricity travels up the ignition wire, through the middle of the spark plug, sparks across the gap, back along the outside of the spark plug and back through the case. A failure of any part of this loop and no spark, so test as much as you can.
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The 391 are the "farm" or "semi-pro" types of Stihl saw. I had a play with one recently and didn't really like it - heavy but not with the power that I'd expect from that weight. Also I think they are all the less robust and difficult to work on clamshell design. So personally I wouldn't spend hundred on a new cylinder and parts, even Meteor.
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Any pics of the grain? I find it amazing people still have elm of this thickness, around here anything that big has been dead and rotted for 50 years. The seed bank must be fairly decent because smaller trees still get going and survive for a bit.
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As per the title and photos below - left photo shows it unclipped and the right photo shows it reattached. I think this controls the choke. Does anyone have any quick fixes? I was thinking of taking the whole switch off and building up the plastic with epoxy, perhaps so the wire attached to a hole rather than a slot.
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3 replacement coils with broken wires? But maybe, easy to test.
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I think the 880 was the last non mtronic, but that's a good point to confirm as this would be a totally different problem. Regarding your 461 and 880, they may have different screw patterns, but you could try swapping the coils? Or testing the working 461 in parallel. Yes do test from coil to the plug cap and test the continuity between the case near the cylinder and the case near the coil. My 088 is a beast to start. Some people say it helps to get beyond the compression stroke then pull? Pulling with no spark plug fitted gives you an idea of what is mechanical and what is compression.
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So multiple new coils, spark plugs and flywheels and no spark. Are you sure you dont have a wiring problem elsewhere, is the on off switch disconnected? Can you describe your multimeter and continuity test in more detail?
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True. Maybe I should keep my views to myself, its so personal and depends on your height, strength and what your cutting. I'm sure there is a case for a 261 and a 400 with appropriate range of bars. If one broke down you could use the other easily. If felling and limbing, you are more sensitive to weight. But at the other extreme, I often ring/block up massive unsplittable bits of oak. I do this kneeling so I don't care how heavy the saw is - 120 cc is ideal!
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Id also recommend the 50cc 261 and a 15 inch bar.
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£550 or so? The OP hasn't replied yet, but I recon a gap of a >20cc between saws is about right. Any less that that and you could get the power jump with a sharper chain / shorter or lighter bar etc. I'm not sure I'd set out to have a 261 and a 400 or a 400 and a 461. That's just my view, but also I like saws and having spares is always worthwhile and you always seem to loose money when you trade in well looked after saws.
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Yes I often do this!
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The fact the fuel ends up being shaken into the cylinder isn't right. If you apply air (gently, 3 psi is more than enough, too much can cause damage) to where the fuel line enters the carb it should hold pressure and not let in any air and hence fuel. If it leaks hold the carb under water to trace the leak - maybe one of the covers ins't screwed down properly. It could be that the valves (that are part of the diaphrams that the shop replaced) are leaking, installed badly or the needle is not closing properly or the spring is weak. The repair place should have checked that the carb was working after installing a carb kit. Find someone decent. Generally chokes enrich the mixture by restricting air not adding more fuel so the position of the choke shouldn't matter.
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Read this @Botty Cough I think this explains the difference of opinion. I only have internal clutched Stihl chainsaws and have never suffered this issue. I can see how an external clutch is way more exposed.
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So are you saying that this only happens on externally mounted clutches? Or just that it is more likely to happen on externally mounted clutches but it can happen on both types? Thanks
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If it runs, you could fuel it on 10:1, attach a hose pipe to it and try smoking out rats. I've always wanted to try this.
