Muddy42

I agree with the negatively around cone splitters on smaller machines or loaders. They really only come into their own on 20+ tonne diggers and a large scale operation. Ive seen one splitting a stack of >2ft wide trees ready for the log processor in no time. This was done in advance of the processor because its so quick, whole trees get split lengthways. I think you can get cone spliters with a grab incorporated, but I've not seen one in action.

Yup that's right, thick red wires from the battery to the solanoid and then straight to the starter, earthed via the chassis. Not many connections to go bad. I can turn the flywheel by hand, so I feel the starter motor should be able to cope.

OK, thanks. So the mower's battery (at 310CCA) should be enough. Sounds like its worth cleaning inside the starter motor. I've never looked at this and the mower must be 35/40 years old. I'm keen to try all the fixes that are free before looking for new parts.

Thanks. I will do clean the clutch if I get the engine running smoothly. I replaced the solanoid two years ago. Yes, I've shorted the two solanoid terminals and I get the same result. When you say "not a 4 litre Perkins!", are you saying that 310 CCA, should be more than enough?

Thanks Gareth. Sorry I may have muddled things. The battery on the mower is brand new - 12v and 310 CCA. It turns the engine a bit with difficulty but doesn't start it. I was replacing a battery that was 10 years old and 12v and 300 CCA. Actually the old battery doesn't seem perform much worse than the new one - I trickle charge the batteries a few times over the winter. No idea what CCA the car battery will have, but many more. The car battery did jump the engine though. I've checked and brightened up all the electrical connections. Maybe I'll take apart and clean the starter motor aswell.

OK so wee update to this. Using my multimeter and lots of continuity checking, I worked out that one of the safety cut-offs was interfering with the operation of the PTO circuit, so I've stripped the wiring right back to basics - no dash lights, no sensors, no headlights. Now its basically the same as the attached Briggs & Stratton wiring diagram (but plus the two belt controls - drive and PTO). However now the engine was having starting problems and was hard to turn over. I wondered if the PTO might be siezed or causing extra engine load, as a related issue. I loosened off the PTO completely and cleaning it out with a pressure washer, then dried, then WD40. The PTO was showing an electrical resistance of 3 ohms, which internet says is fine and it clicked on and off when hotwired. After this the PTO seems to turn freely, so I concluded that wasn't the issue. So I turned to the V-twin engine. It was still hard to turn over. I could start it when jumping it from the car, but not from the 12v battery (which is a new mower battery by the way). But I guess the car provides 48 amps rather than 32?? I don't have a feeler gauge, but the engine's valves didn't seem too tight. When rotating the engine, I couldn't see/hear the operation of a compression release. So I'm a bit stumped really. Could it be a weak starter motor or some major issue with the camshaft and compression release? Im just going to leave this post here and see if anyone has any bright ideas, while I do some more reading. The engine is a Briggs and Stratton 16HP V-Twin model number 303777.

Thanks yes, I'll give that a go. I see a few hours ahead of me with the multi-meter and some replacement wire and switches! I don't think its the clutch itself, but I'll give everything a clean up and check just in case. The whole clutch looks removable. I had a lose oil filter last summer, so everything is covered in oil down there. Thanks

Ive ordered a multimeter to see whats going on behind the pto switch.

I have been trying to run my 1990s Bolens ride on lawn tractor. It has a Briggs and Stratton 16 HP Vanguard V twin engine. The engine has PTO/clutch below it that is electrically driven - flick a switch on the dash and the PTO should engage underneath the engine. Then the PTO would drive the cutting deck via a belt. However, as you'll see in the video below, when I engage the switch the engine just dies. The machine itself drives backwards and forwards fine. Please note, the cutting deck is totally removed for safety. I have tried disconnecting the wires to the PTO and I get the same result, which makes me think the issue is electrical rather than something mechanical in the PTO itself. I have bypassed various safety switches (seat etc.) but I think either there is another safety cut-off or the switch on the dash is faulty. Annoyingly there arn't any markings for the PTO switch on the dash to help me. Is it OK to test the PTO by wiring it directly to the battery? Any if this works can I just fit its own switch and circuit? Thanks, IMG_7918.MOV

My understanding is that Husquvarna have the best anti-vibe and the pro brushcutters are all good. I think it goes approximately 525 (25cc) 535 (35cc) 545 (45cc) and 555 (53cc). It depends what you are cutting, but I find 25cc underpowered for anything but lawns and 53cc is heavy going. Honda do 25cc and a 35cc fourstrokes. However I've never really clicked with them - they are heavy for the power you get and the revs and power are just different. Plus I am less familiar with the engines for repairs.

Oil ratios are a contentious topic, very hard to test or prove one way or the other! Personally I use 40:1 across everything whether old or new machines, milling or crosscutting, using aspen or pump fuel. I tune the older saws for this. I also believe the USA environmental push for 50:1 and I am just a fan of oil. I have a friendly mechanic that has been repairing saws for years (he does bearings and rebuilds for me) who insists on 40:1, so that's what I do. The infrequently used machines run on aspen and I don't so anything special before putting away. The strimmers drink a tank of aspen before being run dry and stored. My goto Stihl 261 uses pump fuel and gets used daily.

Yup, totally agree, if you have a larger saw, that's the way to go. For me its a MS 460 with a 20 inch bar Also less stressing about the two cuts lining up 😉

Most flails will tackle scrub with heavy duty hammers rather than blades. Look for machines that are made with thick metal - some of the chinesey stuff is made from tinfoil. Dont be tempted to buy a wide flail for paths as this saps power. This type of cutting is hard work and you'll need all the power you can get. I have an ATV flail mower made by Chapman in the UK and its excellent, they also do PTO ones. I think a flail would be better than a rotary mower here. Felling work can leave the ground uneven and heavily rutted by the forwarders. A rotary mower won't like this. Just about worst that can happen to a flail is that the flails break or the clutch or belts give.

If you do put a 20 inch chain on a 50cc saw, make sure you keep the chain sharp and don't force the saw to cut, as this will stress and overheat the saw. Personally for occasional use, Id rather cut from both sides and get more power and cutting time from each sharpening. A 15 inch bar gives about 13 inches of usable bar, which will block up a 2 ft log from both sides.

just read this book about Elms. I'd thoroughly recomend it for anyone interessted in trees: Great British Elms: The remarkable story of an iconic tree and it’s return from the brink I guess there are parallels - genetic diversity, development of resistance etc.

I like max 15’ on a 50ish saw. the 550 is a powerful professional saw. I have bigger saws and longer bars but most of the time, this is all you need. Ive never got the US long bar thing either.

Your original post asked for information on pricing and that is what I an trying to help you with. Hence the questions. Im not a buyer but I sell a lot of timber. Allbeit the other end if the UK from you. The market in the South is stronger. Volume affects price because the dealers or sawmills dont like half lorry loads. if it really is roadside, straight mature, mill quality, no shake or rot, Id say £150 a ton. But most people think their timber is worth thousands when its just firewood quality!

and where are you in the UK?

and how much volume? when you say "accessible from a gravel track", does that mean the wood is next to the track, so the lorry can just park and pick it up with its grab or it further forwarding required?

You’ll have to give some more detail on what you are selling. Reading your description you use a range of words. Are you selling standing live trees? How much volume - would it fill a lorry - about 20 tonnes. How straight is the wood - for the mill or firewood. how good is the access from a road that the lorry can get to? To give you an idea, i sold about 2 acres of mixed species, mixed quality with rubbish access and terrain recently. We barely got any profit after the extraction costs. We were forced to fell as the trees were getting dangerous and falling on a main road.

For me another benefit of Aspen over motomix is the bottles pour better. I used to spill motomix everywhere so I now decant it into aspen bottles using a funnel.

It depends how healthy or dead the battery is. If its just a little low, I find pretty much any 12v car battery or booster pack will do it. I've started all kinds of cars and a tractor with the help of my £50 400amp booster before. If its really dead you need a strong car battery and to run the engine for a bit. Also at this stage you need a proper old fashioned power car battery charger - the modern auto ones wont work on a dead battery

For small one-handed work Id also consider the tiny pruning saws. I have the makita one and its great. I really only chose it because I have the batteries already. But I have used the similar Stihl and Husqvarna ones and they are pretty similar. You can use all of its 6 inch bar in a cut. I've taken the guard off to allow undercuts.

As above, check the tuning. Keep that old hayter going, I have one and its built well and the only issues have been fuel / carb related and easily solved.

I'm going to search for that youtube video. Having used both, I am very sceptical of that claim or it wasn't a fair test, my MS261 feels night and day faster than the MSA 300.