Muddy42

READ THE LEASE, in particular the landlords ability to end the lease early, it probably lists sale as a trigger. But this would be exactly that, ending the lease, probably having given at least two months advance notice of the new lease end date. I'm not clear what date the landlord proposed as a new end date? You shouldn't have to pay rent beyond this date. Likewise if you are still paying for the property, its yours to occupy or leave empty, the landlord cannot get new tenants in.

I doubt the police would give you a straight answer to that - effectively your asking the police how long you have to be on best behaviour, if you get caught with drugs or guns in your car. I appreciate this was under previous ownership. Naturally make sure all your paperwork is up-to-date, your car is legal (tyres, number plate etc.) and drive on your best behaviour.

@Hobbylogger as previously stated a reciprocating saw would be better for chopping pallets. If you must buy a chainsaw buy this saw new for £150 and forget old massive saws with un obtainable parts: STIHL MS162 12" Petrol Chainsaw WWW.WORLDOFPOWER.CO.UK Stihl MS162 Chain Saw 12" Built to replace the infamous Stihl MS170, the MS162...

Go on then, make the OP an offer! Seriously they did say they are a bit green to big old saws, I'm not sure I'd recommend something as obscure with a manual oiler where parts are rocking horse poo. Stihl 660, 880 or husky equivalents maybe.

I agree using a metal blade on a brushcutter is tough on the user and machine. I don't think you can get away from that whatever brand you use. However careful I am, I always end up jarring or pinching the blade, which must send shock waves up the shaft. Plus eventually something goes off centre and you get vibrations. What about a powerful flail on a digger? Bulldozer? or the auzzies tow a chain between two bulldozers? Don't goats eat thorns? fire?

Pay whatever is asked for it, then sell it on ebay and buy a stihl/jusky. Parts are rare for a start.

thanks for all the help. I've been offered a small caravan base for free. I'll try and build a base for it.

All logs contain a percentage of water as they dry. So an IBC of logs contains water, wood and air gaps. Wood and air are lighter than water, meaning an IBC of logs must be lighter than one containing water, assuming both filled to the brim. You can dispute the percentage water of a log and the amount of air gaps, but it doesn't make any difference to this.

The manitou is rubbish off road, that's why I need the quad trailer.

Thanks, but I don't think I will. I hate overloading quads (I think its really bad for them) and the distance isn't huge. I have hard standing for where the IBCs will sit, this trailer would be needed for woodland - I don't want tracks all over it and it would be impossible to predict where the next storm damage will hit anyway.

Cheers, that picture is helpful, I can make that with the welder. Water would be heavier and less stable than logs.

I have just got hold of 25 IBC cages to reduce the number of times I handle logs. The idea being the logs get cut and loaded into the cage only once, they season in the cages and get unloaded straight into the log box or fire. The cages work great on the Manitou, the problem is I have some areas of woodland where the Manitou would get stuck. However I have a big 4 wheel drive quad with decent mud tyres that would be fine. I already know it can tow the same weight of logs in a trailer - but if I do this, it involves double/triple handling! I would like to drive the quad into the woods with an empty cage on the trailer and unload it full on my return. BUT the quad trailer is one of those smaller agricultural boxes that is just too narrow by a few inches. I was thinking of buying an beaten up 6x4 trailer and adapting/welding it to be a flat bed. It would be best to have to load as low as possible between the wheels, to reduce how much the logs need to be lifted in. If required, I could move the axle stubs outwards. the trailer would not need to be legal for public roads, just off road. Has anyone else done something similar? Any tips, gratefully received. Thanks

I wasn't aware this was the policy in Brighton and Edinburgh, that's interesting. I hope it works and isn't a fruitless fight - most tree diseases seem to march across the country eventually - Phytophthora ramorum, ash dieback, grey squirrels. Are there any examples of this policy working?

Poplar is a hardwood, but I know what you mean, its at the softer end 😀

Did you check black/white oil pump and that everything is consistent? Just try regular more expensive bar oil as an experiment (after cleaning and flushing everything out) you are wasting money on replacement worm gears anyway, plus the lack of oil won't be good for your bar nose sprocket.

To be fair the original post was a bit of a ramble with two questions. It doesn't matter anyway, because the OP seems to have vanished anyway. Checking the land registry would be an obvious first step.

Ive used a lot of bar oils, they are pretty much the same, and tou can get them all to work - if you have an adjustable oiler and can turn the output up or thin a thick oil with solvent. Im a big fan of heavy oiling. The main difference between aspen and motomix is the motonix bottle spills everywhere when poured!! I decant it into an aspen bottle. Will a bit of maths, you can easily add two stroke oil to take motomix from 50:1 to 32:1, if thats what tickles your fancy.

Did you feel younger afterwards?

My mower survived other than a blown fuse, so check that.

No they are interchangeable, its a 30 year old Bolens.

I recently put a battery in a ride on mower the wrong way round. The starter motor span the wrong way and wouldnt engage with the flywheel. I took off several covers and bolts then cleaned the terminals before I realised! i told myself the mower and under the battery needed a clean out anyway, regreased the steering mechanism, clean battery terminals - definitely worth it!

Thats a fair price, hold your ground. Also replacing bearings properly or leaks in the case are fairly high skill repairs.

I've had a few. I seem to get 5 years out of them before a non economic repair comes along. I'm in two minds - yes I like keeping 'professional' saws going but, when new they cost five times as much and after 5 years start needing money spent on parts. Yet you can get a basic Stihl for £150.

Also bags get damaged pretty quickly if you drop logs from a processor into them! Ive used various home made wooden frames and chutes to help.

The weird thing is the OP said they have replaced the pump last week, so it wont have had time to fail or block up? Are all replacement parts OEM and with part numbers that match those listed as compatible in the manual? As above has there been a mix up. Before you fitted the pump was it easy to turn manually?