Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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This saw wasn’t running quite right hence the pressure test. Annoyingly I suspect a crank seal is leaking. I’ll take the clutch off tomorrow to see a bit more clearly. IMG_5897.mov
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Right so, with a new oil pump and new worm gear, the saw oils the bar just fine. So all is well that ends well, but I am still not really sure what was causing the problem. Maybe the plastic part of worm gear was worn, but replacing it on its own didn't cause oil to flow. Maybe internal surfaces of the pump were worn. Thanks for the helpful suggestions.
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Sorry maybe a basic question, but do you use the decompression valve and the choke? Does it start any easier with aspen?
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@pleasant Yes I can see that. It wouldn't take long for a proper hourly charge +VAT to increase beyond the cost of the new part or even a new saw. My time working on a saw is basically leisure time and I enjoy tinkering after work so my time is free. I hate to see an old saw scrapped. Then there are the retired cash-in-hand guys who aren't VAT registered who are still pricing their time like its 1970.....
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The pinion looks fine and the arm is held tight, but i guess as the gear is plastic, it could wear. I will try the new gear with the old pump first. Yes it does throw/reciprocate a little, but maybe not enough. I’ll examine the new one before using it. thanks for all the help everyone, it’ll be Friday before I can work on this and report back.
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What will an ash woodland look like in 10 years time?
Muddy42 replied to 5lab's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
On the plus side, ash is fantastic firewood. Blambles are a natural tree guard against deer and allow pioneer trees to reestablish themselves. Watch out for deer, hares and other browsers, these had really delay recovery of the understory. Nature will heal itself, but very slowly. You don't need to kill yourself replant all the ground in one go, but you could do small areas or plant either side of a footpath. Planting by hand on a 20 degree slope is still possible. -
Right, so I got the spindle out using @spudulike's panel pin technique, cleaned everything up (cotton buds, solvent, syringe) and blown through and reassembled. But its still not pumping oil. It shows a fair bit of resistance when reassembled and blown through with my mouth (whilst rotating the gear). I'll wait for the new pump mechanism to arrive and compare to that. Some part or the gear teeth must be worn.
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This is making me feel guilty now! I'll try the panel-pin-punch out of curiosity, given I know I have a new pump on the way. I can compare the functionality of old and new by blowing through them. It might be worth the new pump for the oil adjustment alone.
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Yes I have tried forcing air/wd40/solvent through every which way whilst rotating the pump gear (or wiggling it with needle nose pliers). Yes I can get a little bit of fluid to move through it, but its not great. I don't have the right punch to dismantle the spindle so I've called it quits and ordered the replacements. As described, the adjustment function is broken and the pump gear feels crunchy, something is just not right with the existing pump.
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I have not owned this saw from new, so I cant tell if its original, but it could be. I think a new pump (and worm gear for good measure and they are cheap) has to be the next step. The lines either side of the pump are functioning fine. I have pushed a lot of air/white spirit either way through the pump so don't think there is a blockage, it must have failed or worn somehow. The loss of the oil adjustment functionality is reason enough for replacement anyway. Thanks
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Chimney sweeping rods and brushes?
Muddy42 replied to cessna's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
That's my approach. Once a year by the sweep and then I give the open fire a second clean in January. Just done it and brought out about a bucket full (including a jackdaw feather and a stick - the B@stards must have been poking stuff through the protective grill I have). I find if I don't give the open fire a second clean, the draw gets reduced and it can smoke back into the room slightly. Also the sweep won't go on the roof, so I try to get on the roof before he turns up. -
This is really mysterious. I can blast air and WD40 through everything - from the oil pump to the oil tank, through the oil pump and from the oil pump to the bar hole. Initially the pump provided a lot of resistance, but this is improving. I can tell that the end of the worm arm is worn but it still works - I can see its locked into the clutch drum as I move this around. Also it turns the cogs of the oil pump if I hold them together. But if I turn the sprocket with a drill and elastic band - no bar oil emerges. My only guess is I need to keep freeing up the oil pump - maybe syringe some hot soapy water or white spirit through.
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Thanks. I’ll investigate these tips.
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Yes I have seen that issue, I dont think thats a problem here, the metal arm is attached firmly the plastic threaded part.
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Yes I probably will replace it anyway. The fact the adjustment turns and turns doesnt seem right.
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I have been trying to find the issue with my Stihl MS460 that suddenly stopped oiling the bar at all. So far I have tried cleaning out the bar groove and oiler hole and I've flushed out the oil tank with petrol, dried then refilled with bar oil. The filter in the oil tank looked fine. I've just removed the clutch to look at the oil pump area. The worm gear looks fine and seems to be engaging with the clutch fine. I've removed the oil pump, which also didn't have anything obviously wrong with it, aside maybe from the fact that the adjustment screw that increases the oil output just seems to turn 360 degrees rather than coming to a stop at max output? Below the oil pump I am unsure which holes go where - the red hole has oil in it but the green hole is dry. Does this mean that the whole oil pump needs replacing? Thanks
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where did I say nationwide? I dont want anything to change, but if the government really feel that large numbers of school kids are getting lung problems because urban people are burning stoves incorrectly, I’d rather they amended or enforced the existing urban clean air zone rules than an outright ban. I dont think that is controversial is it?
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No you misunderstand me, I don't want any change, I was just guessing at how wood burning restrictions could be enacted. However Id rather the clean air zone rules were amended than an outright ban which, would also affect rural areas.
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Here are a few "projects" that were caught in a house fire. I'm going to give them a basic clean and ditch any with poor metal, some are just B&Q specials.
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Clean air zones simply permit the use of authorised fuels and authorised stoves. It wouldn't take much for Defra to restrict either the permitted fuels or authorised stoves. Apologies for the slight differences for England/Scotland/NI. Or just enforce the current rules better.
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Yes I agree with that. If this is an urban problem, we already have rules for that - clean air zones. If the rules aren't resulting in clean air, changes the existing rules rather than a ban.
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Yes even though I think this is more about air quality, we should recognise the carbon footprint from burning fossil fuels to cut, transport and process wood. Burning wood to kiln dry firewood also feels a bit weird to me. I have no reference but my gut feel is my system is better than most given the wood all comes within a 1 mile radius and is air dried. Also this carbon footprint should be considered in the round with the carbon footprint of everything aspect of modern life - air travel, importing salad or plastic toys from China etc. We had a carbon audit done for the farm recently, which because of its narrow-focused desktop approach, came out with totally nonsensical recommendations.
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I'd check and clean the carb again. Then I'd use the saw and bit and see if I could get it to replicate the fault again.
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There is nothing wrong with burning wood in a stove or fireplace. Yes this releases co2, but would be released anyway when the wood rots. Because wood regrows very quickly I consider it sustainable. The government even burns biomass in certain power stations. There is and has always been a separate problem of people burning wet or green wood or burning the wood slowly and inefficiently. This causes excess smoke and air pollution. The smoke from a hot fire is invisible. This second issue is best managed via stove design or clean air zone rules not an outright ban.
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Can you clarify what the poll is asking? by firewood season, do you mean "burning season" (surely not its January and mid winter?) or firewood cutting season, which for me is all year round because I season it for such a long time its irrelevant.
