Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Ha. It would withstand my knee but that test weld was no match for a few thumps with a 10lb sledge hammer!
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I put high and low screws out by 1 and a quarter turns on everything, then fine tune. If I've done that and can't get the tuning to respond and settle down, something else is wrong, probably an air leak. Is the carb genuine, what was the reason for replacement or symptoms beforehand?
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Agreed. What are the symptoms of not working? I have several of these and just run through the basic tests first. Water or muck in the carb is pretty common.
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I'd have a think about cost/benefit before doing this - cost of new corrugated iron sheets someday in the future (£15?) which wouldn't have holes in, versus cost of paint and cost of your time. Corrugated iron takes a fair bit of prep and is awkward to paint. I've painted them where they are already bolted onto a roof (with inbuilt labour to get them there) but I'm not sure I'd bother with loose sheets?
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why hold the pole saw at all, when you can use a drone?
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Great saws, but the OP is after a ‘beginner saw’, I think you’d get turned away for turning up with saws that are either one-handed or have the power of a small motorbike! Neither would be ideal for leaning about kickback.
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Money no object, for a saw to use all day, I would go for the 500i, given its amazing power to weight ratio. Much as I'd like one, I can't justify the cost for occasional use. Plenty of other older saws in similar cc range come close - stihl 461, stihl 460, etc. I presume you'll be logging timber under say 28 inches. Personally cutting any bigger logs becomes "clearance" for me because it gets a bit inefficient to log timber this big, with extra splitting and lifting. But if you are logging timber this big, go for something in the 90-120cc range.
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Another vote for a 550 or Stihl 261. I have bigger saws but really 50cc will tackle most things.
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What about taping pipe insulation (thinnest you can get) on the saw handles? I did this to my chainsaw mill and it makes it much more comfortable.
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What is this gasket material used on my stove?
Muddy42 replied to Rob_the_Sparky's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
can you share pictures, I'm finding this hard to visualize. -
This is probably Chinese too. Check you can even get hold of a replacement cable. Parts on things like these are often non-existant.
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Stihl/Husqy do sell backpack strimmers just not backpack multi-tools. They are more expensive per cc than the equivalent normal design. Backpack tools (like curved shaft strimmers) transfer the motion using a a flexible cable rather than a rod. Mechanically the cable has to be weaker and you'll be bending and stressing it with every side to side movement. Full disclosure, I have never used one, but that just feels like a bad idea. Plus as a multitool, you're introducing a weakness where you swap the heads and it can limit the position of the handles. Plus you are going for a non brand amazon special with poor reviews. Personally I'd either buy the tools individually or a non-backpack kombi system from one of the brands - there are loads available- battery/electric/heavy/light etc.
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I find in thick stuff, I get more power without a guard and wearing full protection, wellies and chainsaw helmet. I guess its because the strimmer is able to fling cut material away from the blade easier.
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I use a cheap 200amp MIG made by Rohr. I'm an infrequent user so I stick to flux core. I've achieved much better results since I switched the polarity and had some time to practice. Any feedback welcomed
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Control of rhododendron in woodland
Muddy42 replied to peds's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
For clearfelling mixed woodland that has rhoddo in it, I find success depends on what you do with the brash and offcuts. If they get left, rhodo regrowth can be hard to spot and deal with. But if you can get everything forwarded away for biomass in bulk (and often the cost barely covers the revenue) its a much easier task. However this scorched earth policy looks horrible and no doubt takes away a lot of the soil goodness and natural fertilizer. -
Another technique that might work is to roll it - the bracken gets crushed but the heather bounces back. A farmer near me does this and it seems to work. Rollers are tougher than mowers if you hit a stone.
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How much bracken are you talking about? Could you pull it up? I've eradicated small areas br strimming them repeatedly in the early summer - you are effectively stopping it getting light and photosynthesising - it has to have an effect.
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....until you thump something, which jars every aspect of the drive and can lead to off-centre-ness and vibrations.
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Box is one of the best types of wood for woodworking - a fine grain and colour like ivory.
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@Donnie I recon that bracken has got too high this year. Enjoy the summer and leave it until next spring when it'll be easier to cut the new shoots. If you keep cutting bracken it loses its strength and gives up eventually.
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Control of rhododendron in woodland
Muddy42 replied to peds's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Just to clear the brash. Its a nice idea to have a bonfire on a green stump to kill it but it doesn't kill them off and is impractical for a whole wood. Rhodo doesn't have single roots, but a maddening series of stumps roots and creepers. On a woodland scale, I can't see how you are going to kill it without some form of glyphosate. If you go down the chipper route, make sure its a big one, you want it to be able to cope with the biggest/widest branch you can lift. Recutting sections takes up time and rhodo branches comes in all shapes and sizes -
This doesn't make sense. You've dropped about £1,100 to buy one of the most powerful modern chainsaws available, yet you ask the most basic question about fuel ratios? If you have that kind of money, just buy premixed fuel (e.g. Stihl's motomix and preserve your warranty) and please do a chainsaw course and buy protective equipment. You have a saw with more power than some motorbikes, with 80 teeth traveling at 100kmh just inches from your hands and legs.
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As long as its got groove, its got meaning, and maybe its the time, the place, the motion, and the way we are feeling (or something along those lines) - it'll be fine.
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I use lithium grease from a grease gun for everything including strimmers and hedge cutters, with no issues. Id guess that more things fail from lack of lubrication than the wrong type of grease/oil.
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Control of rhododendron in woodland
Muddy42 replied to peds's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
We've had a few successful localised eradications of rhodo. The approach has been to cut and bonfire it by hand. The bigger the bonfire the more efficient it is. A combination of hand tools and electric chainsaws work well for this. Petrol saws are ok, but they just spend ages idling. Painting glyphosate, on freshly cut stems with a paint brush works well and is kinder to the environment than a spraying regrowth. Whatever you do you need to keep at it, shoots and seedlings will keep appearing for years to come. On small areas you can simply pull up smaller stems and nip out seedlings by hand. However on large areas of bare ground you will end up with a carpet of thousands of seedlings that would be impossible to pull up manually. I've heard of people using chippers, bulldozers and there is even a type of bailer available. I've used a digger once, we made piles of branches and set fire to them after a year - worked well.
