Muddy42

Thanks, having paid for this inner tube now, I think I'll just make it work. I'll investigate the valve position and there is a mismatch between the rim and the inner tube, I'll see if I can move the hole. Maybe I could weld up the old hole in the rim. The pressure is off on grass cutting now so I have time.

Thanks. Sorry what do you mean by foam, a foam you squirt in or a new run flat tyre made of foam? I'm always warry of that quick fix goop stuff, I once had to throw away a tyre rather than repair it because of the solidified mess inside that I couldn't remove.

Nice thought process that I hadn't thought of. The inner tube valve is offset but maybe not enough. The valve stem was quite a tight fit already. The tyre is very low pressure already, practically run flat, I thinks its specified at 12 psi.

Yes its a ride on mower or a lawn tractor as the purists call it with the engine up front. But its very old and beaten up and I am trying hard not to spend money on it other than my time. Foam tyres sound too expensive. The mower deck has been welded several times, but is getting to the stage where there is very little good metal left. BUT this particular mower leaves an amazing finish in rough areas. I've normally quite good with air filled tyres. Im looking for help with this valve issue. Thanks

Can someone help me with a very frustrating problem. See attached photo of a rear mower wheel - size 23x10.50-12 . The wheel was tubeless but is old and frayed and I think the chances of it remaining tubless are slim, so I was hoping to rescue it with an inner tube. So I bought a matching sized inner tube and fitting it with lots of detergent as lube around the rim. I got the tube on all fine, using vice grips to hold the valve in position. I aired up the tube and left it for a few minutes to settle before removing the vice grips. Then whoosh the sodding valve got sucked into the wheel and vanished. I turned the air blue. This has just happened for the second time now. The first time I damaged the tube getting it off. Its very hard to remove an inner tube without damaging it when it has air in it. Can I rescue the wheel in the photo? Assuming not, how do I stop this happening for a third time? Is there a type of valve stem that has a knurled metal ring to hold the valve in like on a bicycle? Would it help if I pumped the tyre up beyond the specified pressure for a few minutes? Should I leave the vice grips on for longer? Thanks,

With glyphosate, surely there is a question of scale. For example I mix up 500ml at a time and dab it on cut stems with a paintbrush (rhodo, thistles, docks in the garden etc). Then there are farmers that "spray off" a 5 acre field of grass with it before replanting winter crops.

What I mean is both burning and composting mainly produces carbon dioxide, water vapor, heat. Chemically all carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Don't they? One fast, one slow process. Yes difficult to define manmade and the heat is wasted in a bonfire. Unless you toast marshmallows or use one of these on it, which makes seriously good toasted sandwiches .

Yes its just that burning organic matter feels fairly natural to me. Its just accelerated composting (but I suppose it can create smoke which is probably where the issue lies). Isn't the only way a licenced waste disposal company can get rid of organic matter to burn it or compost it? Shouldn't there be a difference between dumping organic waste and dumping rubbish (man made stuff)?

So bits of tree and plant are classed as waste, that's madness?

Watch out - not everyone agrees those stabilizers work and they could just be snake oil.

Say if they want the tree removed they have to pay for it and be done with it. It feels so wrong doesn't it, but that's how the law works. I had a similar thing happen to me. A neighbour built a house in his garden near our boundary. Just on our side of the boundary was an old and dying ash tree. They started claiming the tree was dangerous and would damage their house. I fended them off for a while by saying things like "the tree was here first" but they got good lawyers on the case. I didn't want to spend any money on this, but after doing some research I realised I didn't have a case. So I just felled the tree and a few days later I'm pretty sure they nicked the logs !

Yes I try and put the old fuel in the quad that gets used a lot in the winter. Its amazing that we have managed for mess up petrol so badly. It survived as a store of energy in the ground for millions of years and modern man has adding things to render it useless after a month. I haven't yet gone down the route of using dyed water to remove ethanol but I'm tempted to try this one day! It would be interesting to see if Esso premium has ethanol in it yet.

I agree, fuel tap off wont do anything unless the engine has been run dry. Ideally the tanks should be emptied because petrol doesn't last. Every autumn, I drain the E5 fuel out of my mowers' fuel tanks (and use it elsewhere) then run the engine until it dies. Then I leave the fuel caps off for a few days to evaporate everything then run the mower again on a splash of Aspen 4 stroke. No fuel issues so far.

I think the change happened from September 2023. However i bet it took longer to implement, so i bought it for a few months afterwards.

Annoyingly for the last 12 months even the esso premium has ethanol in it now. They made an announcement and changed their website.

Personally its about getting the job done quickly, so I care about engine size and deck width, the bigger the better!

I remove as much kindling and bark as I can be bothered and then add a shovel or two occasionally to a hot stove. Best avoided for an open fire. If the stove is too cool or you add too much it dampens the fire down too much and smokes. The eco angus boiler works on a fan so can accept much more. I cant see why this would cause any problems for your flue, as long as its dry.

Like the OP I also use my 088 milling saw for logging up thick wood. As a compromise, I have ground down my felling spikes so you maximise the width in the mill, but they still provide a bit of leverage when logging, protect the exhaust and importantly include the chain catcher. You don't really need pointy spikes unless you are felling. Also I just use 30 degree hand filled crosscut chain. I have tried 10 degree ripping chain but I just changed them back to 30. If your sharpening and milling technique is good (no forcing the cut or see-sawing) there is very little difference in finish. Plus it feels to me like 30 degree chain powers through knotty bendy bits better. My mill is a chinese eco mill. I'm not going to lie, from the start, its cheap cr@p and the adjustment is hopelessly inaccurate and slips in a maddening way just as you tighten a bolt. I ended up making pairs of 1/2/3/5/6/7 inch blocks. If you rest on these whilst tightening the bolts, it works fine.

I agree to go bigger than the 500i. I helped someone mill with one once with a 36 inch bar and skip chain. It was struggling and I worried about doing some damage - it felt like putting a heavy trailer with a racing car. Milling is seriously hard word and suited to the biggest displacement and heaviest engines you can find to dissipate heat. If doing more than a few boards (which it sounds like you are) I'd also look at the 120cc models (088,880,881,3120s). Remember you loose 4-6 inches in the cut due to how the mill is mounted. Plus hardwood tends to have curves, branches and wiggles that you need a few more inches to go round easily. See-sawing the mill around obstacles results in a poor finish. Finally remember a lot of the saw features are not important in a mill (chain brake, anti-vibe, chain catcher, felling spikes) because the saw is surrounded by the mill, so there is nothing wrong with using older or semi-broken saws. For milling I used to use a 660 but now have a 088 with a 36inch bar and .404 chain. The wood that I cut sounds very similar to you.

Some people use a 4g trailcam.

I think the Original Poster has vanished.

Sorry I'm not great with the terminology. Its a wire cuboid cage thing, with a spring loaded door that is set off when the squirrel walks on it to get the food. point blank air rifle works. Mink even bite the barrel if you put it into the cage.

Tell me about it, the paperwork requirement for any type of land management is horrendous these days plus decent mapping software and an A3 colour printer. Its not just to get grants like these, but a lot of stuff you have to do by law returns that you can't avoid. Both of these squirrel schemes are part of larger land management exercises, so the bigger estates are normally doing the paperwork anyway and getting an employee/contractor to do the work.

I'm not an expert but I understand the traps are live traps and non discriminatory, so you need to check daily and release any reds (after they have had a decent meal!). Never seen a polecat and there are very few hedgehogs left after the badgers moved in 20 years ago (before that there were no badgers here). Here is all the Scottish government technical advice of the Scottish grant scene (£200 per trap pa if you are in the right area) which specifies the type of traps to use: https://www.ruralpayments.org/topics/all-schemes/forestry-grant-scheme/sustainable-management-of-forests/grey-squirrel-control/grey-squirrel-control.pdf

Four years later.... Personally I use normal crosscut chain for milling. It means hand sharpening uses the same muscle memory for every chain I own. Plus I occasionally use my 36 inch milling bar for crosscutting logs. Plus I mostly mill bendy, knotty hardwood so some of my milling is actually part cross cutting, if that makes sense. I've bought 10 degree chains before but taken then back to 30. I didn't really find it made much difference, even the finish was similar if you are consistent with your sharpening.