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Muddy42

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Everything posted by Muddy42

  1. If you sell and rebuy, you'll get shafted twice! Its different with new kit or with finance attached, but for the ancient machinery I own, already heavily depreciated, values are stable or going up if anything. If its kept dry, secure and well oiled it'll be fine (I've heard of people spraying on a mix of sump oil and diesel to keep away the rust).
  2. Muddy42

    DHL

    I like Evri, mainly because we are all on first name terms with the local driver and he is very helpful - always leaves packages, leaves with neighbors, accepts collections will track packages for you. You can even phone him to find out when he'll deliver/collect during the day.
  3. HSS etc, publish their hire agreements online, might be worth a look? As above I would be very cautious about damage and who pays for it. You need to be sure the operators will be liberal with the grease gun and hydraulic fluids. Also please think about why your friends have come to you - if they can't hire these machines in the wider market it could be because the machines get so much abuse that the hire charges will never stack up!
  4. The Helicoil seems to have worked in the blind hole. I'm one tank of fuel in and it hasn't vibrated off yet. I started off with the 5.2mm drill and 5.2mm tapered tap that came with the kit. I was very careful to not go too deep with either. I cleaned out the hole with a cotton bud and carb cleaner. I then made a very heath Robinson straight tap from a 5mm bolt with a slit down the middle to remove the swarf. I then levered the slit out to try and get it to 5.2mm. I'm not sure it was a perfect fit but it did remove some more aluminum from the base of the hole. Finally I removed two coils from the Helicoil and ground the bolt to get a good fit, knowing the assembly tab wasn't going to be removed, fitted with locktite and good to go. I'll try and never remove it.
  5. I find another use for these big saws is blocking up big knotty logs that wont split or are too heavy to lift.
  6. Not being funny, you could find someone to shoot the deer for free and get a freezer full of venison as part of the deal? In South Oxfordshire it'll be fallow deer and maybe roe deer. You never shoot all the fallow deer, but they soon get the message and browsing is reduced if you shoot a few. Is the field safe to shoot in? Are there safe backstops or the ability to put up a high seat and not to many neighbors around that would complain. Not that many people notice a moderated rifle shot at 5am in the morning.
  7. Yes understood, I think a flat fee per sale is reasonable. Presumably you have forecast that for an average period of sales £4.95 + VAT per sale will cover all of the postage costs - small items may actually be less and large items more, but on average the business isn't absorbing postgae costs.
  8. You say that, but ebay can only offer that convenience because they are massive (so can average out global delivery charges), are well funded and treat their sellers, suppliers and delivery companies pretty badly. As you say, this approach is convenient and customers like it so smaller traders try to do the same. However ultimately this means the trader either absorbs some delivery costs or effectively one group of customers is subsidizing another. People delivering to London subsidizing those delivering to Orkney, those buying one chainsaw file paying for those buying an 8ft chainsaw bar.
  9. Helicoil first. I've ordered an M5 kit which I know comes with a 5.2mm drill bit (presumably to allow for the width of the helicoil) and a tap. The tap looks slightly tapered but I'd do some measuring beforehand. Hmnn different pitch, I'll have to check that too.
  10. Fair enough. I don't think you can run an online sales business, where the business absorbs some of the postage costs. Ultimately this distorts the margin and provides an incentive to put up prices which ultimately makes comparison difficult as a consumer. Sometimes groups go even further and the exact postage is calculated based on a postcode and the size of the items in the basket.
  11. To the OP. I can't remember if the 500i comes with these as standard but consider replacement spikes that come the roller type chain catcher that fits into the spikes. These are less prone to clogging.
  12. Thanks. I'm taking a bit of time over this. I've got the handle and pull cord mechanism off the saw and clamped it to a board under the drill press. I've been testing for level and square with a smaller 4mm drill bit before I actually cut metal. l'll use tape as a depth stop. I have a broken tapered tap that I'll try and make into a straight tap. fingers crossed.
  13. I used to just remove them aswell before the nine inch grinder chop! However I also use the 088 for blocking up or crosscutting big logs and got very aware that I had a saw with the power of a motorbike and no chain catcher (its attached to the spikes). They are a bit of a faff to take on and off and I’d only lose something in time. Post op, the chain catcher is always there and the spikes dont interfere with milling.
  14. I don't have a 500i, but I have filed off about half the length of the spikes on my 088. I find this better for crosscutting and milling. The remaining metal protects the main body of the saw, but you can still dig in a bit if needed.
  15. Thanks both. I'm afraid it is a blind hole that only goes half way through the Aluminum. I'll give the Helicoil a go first. If that fails I might just buy/make the felling type of bumper spikes that hold the chain catcher out of the way (which I prefer) like this (but maybe with less aggressive spikes:
  16. Stihl MS460. The thread has stripped for the bolt holding the chain catcher and spikes. I suspect a previous owner had used a bolt that was too long for the hole. I have ordered a Helicoil set but I have not used Helicoil before. Any tips? I will be careful not too drill too deep to avoid the oil tank. Should Helicoil be set with epoxy or thread locker? Thanks.
  17. I have lots of saws and bars, but probably a 14 inch bar on a 50 cc saw the most. Personally I've never subscribed to the "longer-bar-on-a-small-saw-saves-your-back" argument. I have tried it a few times.
  18. + fairy liquid as a lubricant, some massive tyre irons and bad language. I find small ride on mower tyres even harder than bigger tyres.
  19. Pieces of string can be really helpful for installing new clutch springs and getting the required tension on the springs.
  20. Lucky you and good idea. I really like a 20 inch bar on 460/461.
  21. Personally I'd stick to Stihl, that way the bars will be interchangeable with your MS460 and MS461. What is your "small saw"? I've always liked having 50-ish cc and then up to 70-ish cc, missing out 60-ish cc as too similar, but up to you.
  22. sorry if this is obvious, but have you tried resetting the autotune?
  23. Also you could juice it? I have a small cheap juice press. Half the fruit and remove the stones. If the fruit is soft you might be able to press it straight away otherwise pulverize it in a bucket or freeze and thaw to break down the cells. The juice freezes well. Any technique like this where you discard the pulp will use up loads more fruit by volume and create a more concentrated finished product. Jam is fine, but you're effectively doubling the volume by adding sugar. Other than that give away as much as possible!
  24. Ideal, thank you. I'll check the tuning as per your method and leave it at that.

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