Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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This is really mysterious. I can blast air and WD40 through everything - from the oil pump to the oil tank, through the oil pump and from the oil pump to the bar hole. Initially the pump provided a lot of resistance, but this is improving. I can tell that the end of the worm arm is worn but it still works - I can see its locked into the clutch drum as I move this around. Also it turns the cogs of the oil pump if I hold them together. But if I turn the sprocket with a drill and elastic band - no bar oil emerges. My only guess is I need to keep freeing up the oil pump - maybe syringe some hot soapy water or white spirit through.
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Thanks. I’ll investigate these tips.
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Yes I have seen that issue, I dont think thats a problem here, the metal arm is attached firmly the plastic threaded part.
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Yes I probably will replace it anyway. The fact the adjustment turns and turns doesnt seem right.
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I have been trying to find the issue with my Stihl MS460 that suddenly stopped oiling the bar at all. So far I have tried cleaning out the bar groove and oiler hole and I've flushed out the oil tank with petrol, dried then refilled with bar oil. The filter in the oil tank looked fine. I've just removed the clutch to look at the oil pump area. The worm gear looks fine and seems to be engaging with the clutch fine. I've removed the oil pump, which also didn't have anything obviously wrong with it, aside maybe from the fact that the adjustment screw that increases the oil output just seems to turn 360 degrees rather than coming to a stop at max output? Below the oil pump I am unsure which holes go where - the red hole has oil in it but the green hole is dry. Does this mean that the whole oil pump needs replacing? Thanks
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where did I say nationwide? I dont want anything to change, but if the government really feel that large numbers of school kids are getting lung problems because urban people are burning stoves incorrectly, I’d rather they amended or enforced the existing urban clean air zone rules than an outright ban. I dont think that is controversial is it?
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No you misunderstand me, I don't want any change, I was just guessing at how wood burning restrictions could be enacted. However Id rather the clean air zone rules were amended than an outright ban which, would also affect rural areas.
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Here are a few "projects" that were caught in a house fire. I'm going to give them a basic clean and ditch any with poor metal, some are just B&Q specials.
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Clean air zones simply permit the use of authorised fuels and authorised stoves. It wouldn't take much for Defra to restrict either the permitted fuels or authorised stoves. Apologies for the slight differences for England/Scotland/NI. Or just enforce the current rules better.
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Yes I agree with that. If this is an urban problem, we already have rules for that - clean air zones. If the rules aren't resulting in clean air, changes the existing rules rather than a ban.
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Yes even though I think this is more about air quality, we should recognise the carbon footprint from burning fossil fuels to cut, transport and process wood. Burning wood to kiln dry firewood also feels a bit weird to me. I have no reference but my gut feel is my system is better than most given the wood all comes within a 1 mile radius and is air dried. Also this carbon footprint should be considered in the round with the carbon footprint of everything aspect of modern life - air travel, importing salad or plastic toys from China etc. We had a carbon audit done for the farm recently, which because of its narrow-focused desktop approach, came out with totally nonsensical recommendations.
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I'd check and clean the carb again. Then I'd use the saw and bit and see if I could get it to replicate the fault again.
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There is nothing wrong with burning wood in a stove or fireplace. Yes this releases co2, but would be released anyway when the wood rots. Because wood regrows very quickly I consider it sustainable. The government even burns biomass in certain power stations. There is and has always been a separate problem of people burning wet or green wood or burning the wood slowly and inefficiently. This causes excess smoke and air pollution. The smoke from a hot fire is invisible. This second issue is best managed via stove design or clean air zone rules not an outright ban.
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Can you clarify what the poll is asking? by firewood season, do you mean "burning season" (surely not its January and mid winter?) or firewood cutting season, which for me is all year round because I season it for such a long time its irrelevant.
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New to purchasing a woodland
Muddy42 replied to milkshakespoon's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
No vehicular access rights and the estate (presumably the former owner) has retained sporting rights. No mention of who maintains the fences or fallen trees over the fences. I do wonder how a wood ended up being split off like this - consolation prize for the younger son? -
I'm not on three phase, that was someone else in the thread. The grid in our area will only let us export 8kw, so even though we have 10kw installed its currently limited to 8kw. I did apply for a bigger grid connection but was rejected.
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New to purchasing a woodland
Muddy42 replied to milkshakespoon's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Sorry I havn't read the whole thread, but watch out with the likes of woodlands.co.uk and woods4sale.co.uk. Some simply parcel up existing woodlands in a grid, in reality you can get very little access rights, privacy or control of what the neighbors do. Don't settle for anything other than freehold ownership and get a lawyer to think about the pitfalls. -
I have covered half of an asbestos shed roof with 8-10kw of solar. I would have done more but the grid won't let me which is frustrating. I just need to decide whether to go down the route of battery storage or just solar diverters for hot water heating. I wouldn't want solar panels on the ancient slate roof - it leaks badly enough as it is.
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Yes but presumably the number of problem days would increase drastically if we increase renewable generation? Yes and most of the decent green wood is needed for housebuilding or pallets. I agree storage and grid capacity are a problem.
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update after a few weeks....I got to the stage where I felt I had tried everything within my capability. So I took the strimmer to a fellow who know his two strokes (probably takes milk in his tea in a 50:1). He tested the spark and diagnosed an issue with the ignition unit - it sparks but the strength or timing of the spark was out. Anyway now it runs after we pinched an ignition unit from a donor engine. Thanks for the help everyone.
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As was seen by last year's Ukraine war gas shock, the UK no longer has a joined up energy strategy. I support renewables as an experiment, but there has been insufficient thought for when its not sunny/wet/windy. I can see the sense of burning low value grades of timber, even importing it but the problem is that things can go too far. Pretty much the only commercially viable timber of scale is Sitka Spruce which leaves the understory looking like this. No biodiversity, no amenity value, acidifies watercourses, cuts up peat layers etc. Carbon policy has exacerbated planting because one of the easiest ways to get carbon credits is converting pasture (where no carbon sequestration is recognized as yet) to woodland. Some of the recent prices paid for upland land that might be planted has been insane.
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Removing all the leaves could shock and kill the tree (this happened to me). Personally if the trunk is sound, I would remove the branches above head height in the autumn in two stages two years apart. Spray all the resulting shoots a few times with fungacide.
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I think all wood is easier to split when fresh. Some types of wood take longer to dry than others, oak being one of them, but don't think of that as a negative. Oak is a hard strong wood with lots of stored energy hence why it holds onto water longer. Its a trade off. If you want quick drying, cut birch or softwood but it will have less stored energy.
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I have experienced brown rot, but maybe not to the extent you have. I think you are following the right approach for any old fruit trees - reduce them to a manageable size over a few years. Thats what I am doing too and the resulting new vigorous growth looks pretty healthy.
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Yes I’d recommend taking your time with the wooden guide. Make sure its square and true and you can lubricate the metal rails with candle wax. Once you start using it, I found the only way to get the jig to cut square was with test cuts.
