Muddy42

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Right. Ive replaced the input boot and the airleak problem is still there. I dont have a pressure tester, but I guess the next thing to check would be crankcase pressure and see if the seals are leaking.

Thanks. Any tips on refitting these induction tubes / boots to ensure everything is airtight? I now have everything spotlessly cleaned with cotton buds. Should I use any lubrication on the contact surfaces with the cylinder, carb or on the hex screws ?

Thanks. Gosh I find those Husqvarna diagrams hard to follow. Ive ordered the part and will keep going.

Ive spent a few more hours on the saw with no luck, all the pipes and the purge bulb are fine. I still think there is an issue with the various rubber/plastic tubes between the carb and the cylinder (the rubber part is not on @adw ‘s diagram above. I dissassembled these with extreme difficulty and think Ive found the leak, but I cant see myself being able to put these back together properly. i think I’ll call it quits and toss the saw - its a cheap rubbish one that isnt well designed for tinkering with. Oh well at least it was free! Thanks for everyone’s advice, I have learned a lot.

Thanks. The pipe seems fine. I took it off the saw completely and when I connect it to the old carb and blow through it, all I can hear is a diaphram in the carb moving, no noticeable air leaks. Mysterious

Hi all. I am just updating this thread / issue. Unfortunately the problem air leak still persists. I have tried swapping the carb (no difference). I have checked the fuel lines and purge button (all hold air). I have just attached a video of the saw running just now, a spray of carb cleaner seems to kill the saw at a particular part between the carb and the cylinder - its a sort of flimsy tube of plastic (sorry I am not sure what it is called) covered with a rubber band. I have had both of these off, cleaned it and returned it. I couldn't see any issues other than the dirt. Any ideas what I should do next? Can this part be replaced? Gasket sealant? Should I give up and ditch the saw! Thanks in advance.

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You’re in too deep already, go for it! As above, you might get lucky with the parts you have and a polished cylinder. For most people in the UK a 120cc chainsaw is not going to be an everyday saw (if it was get a new MS 881) just for occasional milling, blocking up the odd trunk and building some upper body strength for your summer holidays (!) so an older saw is ideal.

On a windy day when the fire has just gone out, have you tried relighting the fire with the door to the room closed and the window open? if would be best if the window was facing the wind. If that improves the fire and it stays alight, you need to improve the airflow to the fire (effectively venting the fire from the outside in a way that the vent can be closed when not in use). If there is no change, the flue and draft needs improving. Alternatively you could try a wood stove, as in my experience they tend to draw better, especially with a narrow flue and an older style stove. The draft on some of the new Ecodesign ones are rubbish!

How bad is the loss of compression, will the starter cord support its own weight? Are you sure the non-running isn't something else - carbon/spark/air/fuel issue? Sorry to be cynical, but I have been told this a few times about saws that are still running years later. The worst are shops that want to sell you a new saw! In my experience, bigger saws with a little bit of scoring and slight loss of compression can be fine, especially as a spare saw pulling a shorter bar.

I don't see what the issue is. Plenty of landowners or even people with large gardens have too much fallen timber lying around, but not enough time to process and stack it. Plenty of people around me in Scotland offer wood on the basis that some goes into their shed or stack. Sometimes farmers will offer wood for free just to get it off their fences. Buying wood may make sense on paper, but it doesn't feel the same. Its not quite as bad as burning oil, but you still feel like you are burning £5 notes. Its much more satisfying and you are more likely to use it, if you have worked for it yourself.

The file guides and Stihl combi things are OK, but I find bare files are best for removing a lot of metal from either the teeth or the depth gauges. Holding the bar in a vice at chest height makes a massive difference. I then occasionally use a file guide to check that I have the correct depth, because I can easily file a little deep when filing freehand. I do use a depth guage guide, but its mostly trial and error based on how the chain pulls into the wood. Another trick that I have recently learned is putting a metal sewing thimble on my finger to rest the flat file against on when filing depth guages - works a treat!

Thanks all. As described, adjusting the H screw doesnt make any difference, the saw still ‘burps’ on high revs with load. i will look for a leak with carb cleaner and reassess the situation.

Thanks, I like that idea and will try it first.

I have a 6 year old Husqvarna 135, that I was given by a friend after he couldn't solve the issue below. I am pretty sure its been looked after and its been run almost entirely on aspen. The piston looks "used" but not terrible. The starter cord feels like it has enough compression. It starts well and has as much cutting power as you would expect for a small saw. I've replaced the fuel filter, air filter and spark plug. Ive checked and cleaned out the fuel tank. However it has two stubborn issues. Firstly it "burps" every few seconds at high revs and secondly it is difficult to tune. The tuning screws still have their limiters on but I've tweaked the H screw up and down, then returned it to default - no difference. It doesn't idle well - it either stalls or the chain moves too much, its very hard to find the sweet spot between these or it doesn't exist. Could these issues be fixed by cleaning out the carburetor with carb cleaner?

Its all very well that the stove produces less particles outside the house, but its a bit fruitless if it makes the indoor air quality worse by smoking. I'm sure its great for the stove installers though! All those extra sales of chimney liners, cowls (that'll require hire of a cherry picker sir) and a cold air vent direct to the stove.

Yes same here about the smoke exit being close to the door, I hadn't thought about that.

Over the summer I had an Esse 1 woodburning Stove installed for a small room with a lined flue. I have used it a few times now. The heat output of 5kw is tremendous, almost too much for a small room in October. Its a small stove that can only take small logs. My only complaint is that it is hard to light and it lets smoke into the room at first. I have tried the usual trick of giving it a real blast of burning newspaper and kindling, but it still isn't ideal. I also have a larger Clearview stove installed in a chimney of a similar length, which has never had this problem. As an eco design stove, it promotes smoke re-circulation by the top rectangular baffle bricks only having a tiny gap for the smoke to escape out of, which I don't think is helping the situation. I have some spare fireboard, so I might see if leaving a more normal sized gap at the front makes a difference. In advance of the complaints from the stove installers, yes I appreciate that experimenting with a stove could invalidate my warranty, insurance etc. Don't do this at home kids!

I like old saws too, including a Stihl 028. I've tried the new automatic tuning ones and just don't like them. Yes things break, but generally they are much easier to work on than new saws. If you have more than one saw it never slows you down. Old saws >=50cc are worth keeping going, it takes a LOT of use before loss of compression becomes an issue.

I'm sure the experts will be along to comment. Have you changed the spark plug/cleaned the air filter, that fixes a lot of issues for me? Has someone messed with the tuning H screw badly or are they at the default setting? Or it could be a crack in a fuel or air line somewhere, giving the wrong mix

Yup, wholesale costs have risen a lot. That's my understanding, yes. In the UK we have one wholesale price, some countries have more than one due to bottlenecks in infrastructure or production.

Remember there are two different markets here - Energy Supply and Energy Production (some companies are linked though). Energy Producers dig it out of the ground, burn stuff or harness wind and solar to make energy. Energy Suppliers rent space on the various grids to supply it to the end customer. In the above diagram, running costs includes the cost of renting the pipes and wires from national grid. There are six massive energy suppliers that compete by trying to lower their price for customers. Yes I suppose they could be price setting, but this is illegal and they risk the companies being shut down and jail sentences for the executives. I seriously doubt that (any) incompetent government could run these companies more efficiently. We haven't really had nationalized industry since the 1960s, the government and civil service simply don't have the skills or capability anymore. It would be a mess. Energy Production is a different matter. The Energy Producers, BT/Shell etc. or Equinor (owned by the Norwegian government) are making a fortune because their is a European shortage of gas and prices have been driven high by market forces. European countries are bidding up the price of gas as they all want to boost their reserves of gas. Maybe Equinor can be persuaded to give up profits and supply gas at the cost of production? The UK government will probably impose a windfall tax on BT/Shell. This is not that simple because not all of their operations are in the UK, plus business hate sudden changes in tax and they could simply relocate operations elsewhere.

No idea. Last year we occasionally used electric heaters, this year they are under lock and key! For heating this winter it'll be wood only plus some left over coal. The belts are being severely tightened!