Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Are you sure the 'aftermarket' piston and cylinder are exactly the same as the original (many aren't built with the same tolerances)? Do you get the same abrupt halt with the old p&c re-installed, its all about eliminating variables? You say the cylinder was lightly scored, it might be repairable? Could there be an issue with the decompression value - making it turn off too quickly.? Have you been checking compression, pressure and vacuum before and after?
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I’d say that most chainsaws users could do with a small stihl 181 or Husqvarna 135. Even if you have/eventually buy a bigger saw, these lighter saws are great as a spare, cutting the bigger saw out when you get it stuck (!) or brashing/tidying up smaller branches.
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I was indeed! God knows how many hours I spent fiddling with it. If I priced those hours the same as my desk job, I could have bought several new saws. i will. Its a nice weight for small jobs.
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Yes swapping the carb and re-tuning was a distraction, it was the intake boot that had perished and had a leak. It was very hard to diagnose, I only really found the issue when this was removed. A spray of carb cleaner just ends up in the air filter.
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Right so the problem is now fixed and the saw is running. Sometimes its the silly things right? But I would’ve helped if I had more pleasure and electrical testing kit (like my friend does). so the new replacement carb that I had bought turned out to be leaky from the start - cr@ppy knock off ebay rubbish! so in order what I think happened was. 1. I replaced the carb, no noticeable difference in the air leak. I assumed it would be best to continue using the new carb, as it should be fault free. 2. I replaced intake boot. I think this was where the leak was all along, but I couldn’t tell because the carb was bad. 3. my friend pressure tested both carbs, put the old one back and checked the quality of the spark. The saw ran fine so he re-tuned. I used a tank of fuel to cut some logs. All good. Thanks again for the help.
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Apologies, thanks to ALL who have posted on this thread over the past few months.
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Thanks both
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Thanks. My friend suspected an ignition unit aswell and I've given him the OK to take everything apart. Let’s see if he can fix it.🤞
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Yes I think it is an air leak somewhere that I just havn’t found yet.
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1. difficult to tune - i think ive got everything set and then something changes, the saw stops idling or bogs. 2. cuts out when cutting wood at high rev. 3. idles rough, it sort of chugs, see video. true, but if I had L or idle set much lower it dies. so far I have replaced fuel filter, carb and input hose. Ive checked all hoses for leaks. The piston and rings look fine from both sides. ive given it to a friend for a second opinion who services saws as a hobby and is very good with them. Lets see.
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IMG_4165.MOV
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Right. Ive replaced the input boot and the airleak problem is still there. I dont have a pressure tester, but I guess the next thing to check would be crankcase pressure and see if the seals are leaking.
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Thanks. Any tips on refitting these induction tubes / boots to ensure everything is airtight? I now have everything spotlessly cleaned with cotton buds. Should I use any lubrication on the contact surfaces with the cylinder, carb or on the hex screws ?
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Thanks. Gosh I find those Husqvarna diagrams hard to follow. Ive ordered the part and will keep going.
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Ive spent a few more hours on the saw with no luck, all the pipes and the purge bulb are fine. I still think there is an issue with the various rubber/plastic tubes between the carb and the cylinder (the rubber part is not on @adw ‘s diagram above. I dissassembled these with extreme difficulty and think Ive found the leak, but I cant see myself being able to put these back together properly. i think I’ll call it quits and toss the saw - its a cheap rubbish one that isnt well designed for tinkering with. Oh well at least it was free! Thanks for everyone’s advice, I have learned a lot.
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Thanks. The pipe seems fine. I took it off the saw completely and when I connect it to the old carb and blow through it, all I can hear is a diaphram in the carb moving, no noticeable air leaks. Mysterious
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Hi all. I am just updating this thread / issue. Unfortunately the problem air leak still persists. I have tried swapping the carb (no difference). I have checked the fuel lines and purge button (all hold air). I have just attached a video of the saw running just now, a spray of carb cleaner seems to kill the saw at a particular part between the carb and the cylinder - its a sort of flimsy tube of plastic (sorry I am not sure what it is called) covered with a rubber band. I have had both of these off, cleaned it and returned it. I couldn't see any issues other than the dirt. Any ideas what I should do next? Can this part be replaced? Gasket sealant? Should I give up and ditch the saw! Thanks in advance.
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Video.mov
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You’re in too deep already, go for it! As above, you might get lucky with the parts you have and a polished cylinder. For most people in the UK a 120cc chainsaw is not going to be an everyday saw (if it was get a new MS 881) just for occasional milling, blocking up the odd trunk and building some upper body strength for your summer holidays (!) so an older saw is ideal.
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On a windy day when the fire has just gone out, have you tried relighting the fire with the door to the room closed and the window open? if would be best if the window was facing the wind. If that improves the fire and it stays alight, you need to improve the airflow to the fire (effectively venting the fire from the outside in a way that the vent can be closed when not in use). If there is no change, the flue and draft needs improving. Alternatively you could try a wood stove, as in my experience they tend to draw better, especially with a narrow flue and an older style stove. The draft on some of the new Ecodesign ones are rubbish!
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How bad is the loss of compression, will the starter cord support its own weight? Are you sure the non-running isn't something else - carbon/spark/air/fuel issue? Sorry to be cynical, but I have been told this a few times about saws that are still running years later. The worst are shops that want to sell you a new saw! In my experience, bigger saws with a little bit of scoring and slight loss of compression can be fine, especially as a spare saw pulling a shorter bar.
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I don't see what the issue is. Plenty of landowners or even people with large gardens have too much fallen timber lying around, but not enough time to process and stack it. Plenty of people around me in Scotland offer wood on the basis that some goes into their shed or stack. Sometimes farmers will offer wood for free just to get it off their fences. Buying wood may make sense on paper, but it doesn't feel the same. Its not quite as bad as burning oil, but you still feel like you are burning £5 notes. Its much more satisfying and you are more likely to use it, if you have worked for it yourself.
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The file guides and Stihl combi things are OK, but I find bare files are best for removing a lot of metal from either the teeth or the depth gauges. Holding the bar in a vice at chest height makes a massive difference. I then occasionally use a file guide to check that I have the correct depth, because I can easily file a little deep when filing freehand. I do use a depth guage guide, but its mostly trial and error based on how the chain pulls into the wood. Another trick that I have recently learned is putting a metal sewing thimble on my finger to rest the flat file against on when filing depth guages - works a treat!
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Thanks all. As described, adjusting the H screw doesnt make any difference, the saw still ‘burps’ on high revs with load. i will look for a leak with carb cleaner and reassess the situation.
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Thanks, I like that idea and will try it first.
