Muddy42

Well done! Gender is irrelevant, you saw a career you wanted to pursue, got trained and went for it.

OK, I will send you a message.

Yes plastic doesn't sound ideal. Id try taking the plastic ones to a quad breaker and seeing what they have in metal in a similar shape. Guards from a different model would be easy to adapt. I don't know where you are in the UK, but I can put you in touch with a quad breaker in Carlisle that knows everything there is to know about Hondas and may well have something suitable.

I've used a 2008 Honda trx420 in woodland since 2010 and I've never needed more than the standard front and back axle guards. These are metal and yes they get dented, but they offer good protection and I've not damaged anything that way. Maybe you could find some from a quad breaker?

Yes the gaskets are on the right way. I have just re-checked, as my skill level is ‘always learning.’ Hopefully the carb cleaning and new cylinder/carb gasket will make a difference.

sorry, I should have said Ive installed new diaphrams from a cheap kit. Needle arm is currently just below the surrounding metal (but only by visual reference to a straight edge, as I dont have a guage). I’ve cleaned deeper into the carb today and made a new gasket for between the carb and cylinder. Lets see, I’ll try and start it again tomorrow. thanks again.

Yes, the lines were cracked and the filter was dirty. Yes I've cleaned in there. yes i've cleaned the gauze and underneath it. yes new plug in. I've just sorted a leak in the purge bulb and the carb now holds pressure when applied to the fuel intake. The machine seems to fire a bit better with the L jet out too far (2 turns even) or choke open. Both sides of the carb seem wet, so I think there is still an air leak somewhere. The gasket between the carb and the cylinder is pretty worn and ripped and might be sucking air, so I'm going to try making a new one next. Thanks!

@spudulike @pleasant I got the re-greased the shaft (correction its a solid shaft) and freed up the clutch. I'm not sure where the issue was exactly but the mechanism feels better now. I've replaced the larger carb diaphrams - fuel pump and metering sides. It runs for longer now but still dies after a few seconds. I suspect a deeper issue with the carb or a leak in the purge bulb. Any other ideas?

Doh, found this very obvious sticker. So it is a pro.

I have a RAC 400 Amp one. It works OK. It is only meant for cars up to 1.5 liters (incidentally I have no idea why they size it off the engine size rather than the battery size). But I have used it on tired batteries of 2 liter cars, quad bike, mower, even a tractor once. The battery life only seems to last a few months before it needs recharging, but funnily enough that works fine for me. It doesn't take long to charge. This is so much easier than jump cables. I might try a more powerful one next time.

Thanks Spud. Yes the diaphragms are gone, but I am confident everything else in the carb is OK. Its a cable type and I can turn the head from the engine end by turning the cable. Yes there is something seized in the clutch and I havn't been able to get the head apart (as if to add more string). I will keep working on these last two aspects before I spend money on the carb kit and correct lines.

Thanks. It feels pretty cheap. I'll give it another go later and see if the diaphragms have softened.

I've been working on a tiny old McCulloch strimmer for a few hours. I've been on the look out for a small strimmer for a while for neater smaller jobs. This one was obtained for free. My progress so far is as follows (no money spent just time): - compression feels decent from pulling the starter rope - removed muffler, piston and cylinder look in great condition - confirmed spark, it does! - replaced cracked fuel lines to the purge bulb with some I had lying around. The purge bulb then drew fuel up OK, but with a slight leak because the lines were a tiny bit too small. - unseized the strimmer head with WD40 and re greased - cleaned out the varnish in the carburetor It now runs for a few seconds with half choke or a spray of fuel in the spark plug hole. I havn't been able to get the motor to turn the string head yet. As I say I have got to this stage without spending money so its decision time! - I could buy the right size of fuel line which might help fuel delivery. - I could buy a carb kit for walbro carb. The diaphragms are definitely brittle. But what do people think I should do? Are these McCulloch strimmers any good? Clearly the company is no more so parts will be hard to obtain. Thanks for any advice.

Do you mean fuel hose disconnected from the carb or impulse line disconnected from the cylinder? Either way glad you got it sorted

Facebook market place is good and doesn't charge fees. But people tend to be quite flakey and don't reply to messages.

I have a small esse one and its OK but I wouldn't recommend it enthusiastically. Yes I can get it going but its on the hard side to light and smokes a bit. The top of the door is too close to the flue exit. Its been installed properly with a decent double skinned liner, flue insulation and a cowl. I used an equivalent 5kw Charnwood the other day and it was excellent.

Amazing. Ive never seen anything that thick

Box wood over 12 inches diameter is pretty rare.

Yes but I grow my own. Unbelievable stuff, fine evenly grained like ivory and very strong. Great for cutting a thread into or chess pieces or tool handles or knife handles. Keep some just in case you get the urge!

Not with a robo flail, but I once got my ears pierced by a flying piece of wire from a tractor topper. I was driving the tractor and turned to investigate why the cutter was making a weird noise. It turns out I had driven over some fencing wire. A hot piece of wire flicked out and pierced my ear lobe perfectly. I remember smelling the burning flesh and pulling the metal out. Amazingly the hole closed over and healed completely. I was very lucky it didn't get an eye. With robo flails, surely the machine could sense when the controller was too close?

Any wood as long as its seasoned and really dry. I like seasoning outside, so by the time that's done, its quite hard to tell what is what.

yes that makes sense. If It helps, my eco angus log boiler has three safety features. This is basically a jacket of water around a furnace which is pumped via a flow and return loop and the heat is exchanged into storage tanks. Firstly once the water reaches a set temperature the fan turns off and slows the fire down. Secondly if the jacket of hot water gets too hot, it will trigger a value which dumps the hot water out of the loop. This seems to happen if I set the temperature too high (say 90c) and don't have the radiators on enough (if its seriously cold and the radiators are on 24/7 90c is fine). I've never seen the third feature in action, but I can see the boiler is connected to the cold water supply - if triggered cold water floods in and cools the boiler somehow. In a power cut I guess the fan would stop working, and so would the pump, but the two valves would still provide a safety net.

I’d love to see a diagram of a hot water and radiator system back boiler from a stove if possible? I’m helping renovate a rental cottage which I think has such a system, but the former occupiers didn’t use it. I'm doing the heavy lifting/woodwork and organizing the other trades like plumbing and electric. It’s a small two story cottage without any obvious heat pump. I think I understand the concept that (unlike gas/oil central heating) it needs a vent/pressure/heat release in case the stove gets too hot. The person who lived in the property 10 years ago says it used to work fine – lots of hot water and warm radiators. If the system got to hot, he said you could hear it boiler off in the attic. But who knows what has happened since then. The attic is very hard to get into and had bees in it (!), so I haven't been up there yet. I am concerned that it might be too much of a ‘hands-on’ system for modern millennial tenants, who want guaranteed instant heat and hot water. So the system would need to work in tandem with electric. But if its working, I am loath to remove the system, purely because it would be so hard to replicate.

I'd wait until you have your tickets, PPE and a saw. Then try calling some farmers or people in rural areas. They always have trees falling on or hanging over fences and everyone needs firewood.

I agree with this. A small amount of wood burning furiously is more efficient than jamming the stove full of wood and letting it slumber. Plus this causes premature wear to the firebricks. Some modern eco design stoves for smoke controlled areas even prevent you closing the stoves down completely - either holes at the rear or some fixture in the vent that stops it closing fully. I'm not sure I am 100% comfortable with this, as there may be a safety reason to clamp the stove down completely if it got too hot for example. I struggle with my Esse One Eco design stove to be honest. There isn't enough metal between the top of the door and the flue, so it smokes back into the room when it is being lit, or the fire is cold or the window is closed or its windy. Yes I can make it smoke-free with a few tricks, but its not ideal. I feel its designed by scientists for perfect laboratory conditions. I'm going to try replacing the liner, adding a suspended cowl and insulating the flue. If that doesn't work I chuck it and buy a second hand clearview. I've never had problems with clearviews - I even swapped in my clearview from a different room - totally fine! Before anyone asks, its Scotland where the rules on DIY work are different.