john87

I cannot see what it has to do with the arb worker person. It would be a bit like someone having a house put up without planning permission and the builder getting the blame. How do you deal with neighbour disputes?? I would think the best thing would be to just carry on and if the neighbour carries on performing simply phone the police. They have no power to do anything other than to threaten the mouthy neighbour with arrest. Is this sort of thing a regular occurance?? When you turn up at a house to remove a tree, say, how do you know there is not a TPO on the thing.. Would it be possible to make customers sign a disclaimer that they indemnify you from any actions or expense should it turn out that they misinformed you as to any TPO's or agreements [or otherwise] with neighbours? john..

Was the Arrow was a 200?? I know the leader was a 250 or did the Arrow come in two sizes?? john..

Ha ha ha ha..... I know!!! i love my bike, but for everyday rideability you would be far better off with a honda 50. I mean, the jump between 1st and 2nd is insane.. At the end of the day, british bikes were badly designed cheaply made shit [ever looked at an ariel leader] or what amounted to industrial engines stuck in a bike frame. I mean, in the early 1970's who but a loon would buy a BSA C15 instead of a Honda CB250 or a Suzuki 250 john..

Well, with a 28" bar on it, if i climbed the tree first and then pulled it up on a rope i could do a few cuts i suppose as in cutting off big branches close to the stem if needed no probs, but i would not fancy actually climbing a tree with it!! The 20" bar would help i would think, as it would then not be much lighter, but shorter, but then, if you were going to use a 20" bar, you might as well use a smaller saw [like 50cc] This would only be 4 or 5 lbs lighter but a LOT more useable and less cumbersome i would think.. [bit like you said!! As for cutting chunks off the stem of the thing, you know, using the saw in a horizontal position, again, i could do a few i suppose, but it would be hard going. It is the physical size rather than the weight, but that does not help!! I would rather do it on spikes and choked in to the tree than on a rope too as this feels much more solid to me. Them that spend all day chunking down trees with saws this size must be rather stronger than me!! john..

Yes, ones i saw were about £180. Problem you have, is that by the time someone bought one and then maybe fitted a bar and chain and did them up a bit, they might as well have bought a new one. All my saws [ i have four] start second or third pull from cold, and half a pull when warm, so anything that is hard to start is either knackered or the user is doing something wrong.. john..

Not that i am an expert, but NO WAY would i try cutting trees from a ladder. A quick seach for idiots with chainsaws quickly shows that 99.9% of the accidents are caused by people that cannot climb the tree, so use a ladder. Needless to say, they cannot get high enough to top the thing, so despite the fact the ladder might be tied to the tree, the resultant "top" is longer than the distance they are themselves from the ground. So rather predictably, the top falls off, tip hits the ground..... and the butt then hits them off the ladder.. What did they think was going to happen>> john..

Ok, as an update.. My new Echo CS-7310SX.. I got a 20" bar in the end. Sugihara ones are impossible to get, but since Echo use Sugihara pro solid bars but with "Echo" written on them, i just bought one from Echo. Not fitted or tried it yet though, the original 28" bar has been perfect for what i have been doing with it. So, how is the saw doing?? Great!!! Been cutting up stuff like in the photo with it. I have not tried another make of saw in this size range, so nothing to compare it to, but it seems a great saw. Not vibey, rather loud though [so ear plugs are a must] Very nicely built with a very solid feel to it too. Always starts easily from cold, 1 pull with choke on, then choke off, and maybe 1 or 2 pulls after that, so 3 pulls in all. Only ever used Husqvarna XP Power 2 fuel in it, so could not comment on other fuels. When warm, half a pull and it goes every time.. Does not piss out oil when stored either.. Would i buy another?? Absolutely, without a second thought. So, for anyone that wants a 73cc saw that is nicely made, maybe a little cheaper to buy than the others out there, always starts easily, and well, is just nice, i can 100% recommend an Echo 7310.. john..

Whatever someone will pay.. I would list them on facebook market place [as it is free] Put them for £125 each and see what happens. john..

Yes, it would almost certainly have been the same engine as i have, the 197cc 9E. Could possibly have been the earlier 8E, but unlikely.. john..

The mesh is VERY delicate, so i would forget compressed air or brushing it or anything else like that. I just wash mine in hot soapy water [washing up liquid] and let it dry. Comes up like new.. john..

Ahhh... Many years a go i knew someone that had a 250 suzuki that they bought standard in the local bike shop. They raced it in the "clubmans"??? class at the TT races, and, up against all the works sponsored people came 6th apparently, so believe me, they could ride a bike and knew what they were on about. [They showed me a set of tyres once.. OMG, they looked like they had been half melted and wire brushed..] Now, one day somebody appeared with the same bike as you have. My racing friend said that they were an unbelieveable thing and, my god, fast would not be the word for it.. So, that is quite some bike you have there..!! john..

It is indeed a 9E. The original engine, [a 10E, they are the same apart from on a 10E the outer cases do not have the ribs on them and the inlet manifold is different] blew up, [rod though the cases] in 1969. It was replaced by the 9E. The replacement engine is a VERY rare model though, it was supplied by villiers to a firm called "aerokarts" for use in a racing go-kart. I still have the original engine here, but as the replacement 9E was installed in 1969, you could deem that it was pretty much original too. The 10E manifold is different, as the 9E was installed leaning forwards, but Francis Barnett had to be different and tilted the engine backwards so the cylinder was vertical. This is why they used cases with no ribs so it would not look like a 9E tipped backwards and a different manifold so the carb would be level. My carb is the original villiers carb that would have been on the original 10E, although it does look like an Amal in them photos. Here is a better photo that shows the carb more clearly. john..

The chains always look dry to me, so as a check i lift the chain out of the bar a bit and wiggle it, and sure enough, you can see the oil squeezing out a bit between the drive link and the bar groove as you wiggle it, so all ok there!! I was cutting a slice off a very large log in half endways if you follow me the other day. I cut part way through, and then rolled it over, stuck the bar in and finished the cut upwards. I was quite amazed to see the oil spray from the chain hitting the wood. You could clearly see it hitting the end face of the wood. Never thought it would just fling off as an aerosol though. Three litres a day flying about would not do you any favours as you say though. When you see it fling off in the sun does it mainly fly off the end or generally all over the place or what?? john..

I expect it varied according to the size of the bike, You must have had a bigger one as mine is only a 197.. john..

Yes, and i have the last mot too!! Here is the tax disc and a scan of the MOT..

Presumably a different sort of plastic that is not intended to last for many years without its chemical amd mechanical properties becoming changed?? john..

That is fair enough.. The oil would not do you any favours.. Perhaps the oil pump is turned up too high though?? There is not a drop of oil flung over my or my saws at all, it must wipe off on the wood. If i just stand there revving the thing for a few minutes, when i put them away, you will end up with a pool of oil under them that has run off from around the sprocket. If i just stop cutting, brush the saw clean with a paintbrush and wipe the bar with a cloth, then start it for about 10 seconds to blow any more dust off [as i always do] then when i put them away, not a single spot of oil comes out/runs off.. john..

Ok, so i have got a bike.. It is a 1959 Francis Barnett Falcon81. It was given to me by a gentleman from Uckfield. His dad had given it to him in 1970 for him to use to go to work and back in the year before he left to go to university. In 1975, for some reason his dad stripped it right down and that was how it remained for the next 42 year... In about 2007 the chap concerned was helping clear out his dads house as his dad was moving i would presume. Anyway, he came across the bike in the garage. He assumed it had been scrapped years ago, but no, his dad had kept it. He took it home with him to uckfield, and it remained here for another 10 years.. The bloke gave it to me for nothing, as he did not want any money, he just "do not want it to all be sold for bits and want it to go to someone that could put it all back together" So, that i did. I did not "restore" it, it was far too good for that. I just wanted to put it all back together exactly as it was back in 1975 when his dad took it all to bits.. The ONLY bit that was missing, was one tank badge, but i had one of them!! john..

No surprise there then.. Why on earth would anyone use cooking oil in their saw?? I have a bit to do with old motorbikes and there are always people on about what oil to use. I always tell them the same, "what ever the makers told you, your bike has lasted 70 years so far, so i think the makers might have specified the correct oil" I doubt the saw makers tell you to put cooking oil in it.. Each to their own though.. john..

Yes, that is a very good point.. john..

Yes, i was going to say that trespass is a civil tort, and so they could in theory try to sue you, but as you correctly say; "the law does not concern itself with trifles" and anyway, what would be the point unless they wanted to recover damages from you, problem [for them] being that you cannot sue for damages unless you can show that you have suffered loss [which they cannot do] john.

Ahhhh, Stihl saws!!! I thought you meant the Stihl oil!!! john..

From the manual for my Echo CS-7310SX..

Just remember that the people that want the work doing have a few big advantages over you.. 1, They will be skilled at screwing people down into the ground as they have nothing to lose and do it every day. It is merely a game and a laugh to them. 2, It is not their money so it is just like monopoly to them, they will not give a crap. 3, There is a possibility that they do not want the cheapest price anyway, as their department get a percentage as commission. 4, If it is a public body, always remember that they pay out amounts for jobs that would make you laugh, incredible amounts.. Just put in a price that you are well and truly happy with. john..

What are sawlogs?? john..