coppice cutter

Big difference between closing a road completely, and running a single lane traffic system which is what you are doing with stop/go boards.

............and spitting. Ive been there!

Stop/Go boards are ideal if you have the manpower free to operate them as they allow you to regulate the traffic there and then and not keep people sitting when there's no need. You can also have the 'system' set up as quickly as you can unfold a couple of signs and lift the board. If the control area is short you could easily get away with a sign at each end and one board in the middle. However, you initially need to check if there's any specific control measure specified in the job description.

The Stihl 201 cm is actually dearer than the 241 anyway as I remember.

So if you were caught texting whilst driving you'd get points and a fine (quite rightly so) as concentrating on the screen when you should be concentrating on the road ahead is a huge distraction and extremely detrimental to road safety. All very true. So am I missing something here or how the hell did this ever be given type approval?

Good for you. Every other person who I knew or could find hiring in plant were on the same terms.

Back when I was subbed in to a road squad the wait time was three clear months from the end of the month you were being paid for, that was standard across the board. Always got paid mind but those first three months were lean!

Both were available when I was looking and I considered both but at the end of the day I liked the look and feel of the 352 more, seemed a bit more "old school". That having been said, all the saws they brought out since have been more in keeping with the style of the 3510 so that seems to be their new look, and the Japanese aren't in the habit of going backwards so I guess the 3510 would do your job equally well if not better.

I fit a lot of motorcycle chain and sprocket sets every year and they behave the same way. People think they 'stretch' after fitting but they don't, they just bed in to the sprockets which takes a mile or two because they're packed with the thickest, stickiest, grease you could ever image at the factory. Beyond that, they wear in different ways depending on how they're treated but what really matters is how much they stretch, what doesn't matter in practical terms is how it does it.

For that sort of money I really can't see you doing much better than Paul's little Echo. https://www.lawnmowersdirect.co.uk/product/echo-cs-352es-petrol-chainsaw-35cm-bar/ It was on my short list when I was looking for a new saw a couple of years ago and even though I ended up spending roughly double for the 390esx, I did have a good look at and handle one of them and it looked and felt excellent for the money.

Echo have a new importer in the UK and that is a new website, but that does indeed now seem to be the case. However I'd want to check whether or not it needs to be done by an Echo dealer as that can be a fairly grey area.

I got the five year warranty with my 390esx no questions asked and no service requirements stipulated. But I'll agree, dealer network and indeed even UK distribution is patchy. No doubt because they are trying to operate in a market so totally dominated by the big two. That having been said, so far I've had no issues whatsoever that have needed anything, and have two dealers who I do other business with that have access to Echo parts should there be a problem.

The reason for that is very simple, the cheaper Husky and Stihl saws are now made in China, and look it. Echo is made in Japan and a superior quality product, other than any value attached to the name they shouldn't be the same price. The warranty offered by the respective saws tells the story.

Firstly, make sure you're not over-tightening the chain. My paying job is as a motorcycle mechanic and it's amazing how many people's trouble with stretching chains is that they're over-tight in the first place and the chain is just always trying to buy itself some slack. It does that, owner thinks it too slack, horses it back up again, chain stretches again, etc........... * However, that not being the case, then you just want to buy a good quality chain in whatever size your saw takes. Stihl chain is very popular but personally I've never used anything other than Oregon and never seen the need to look for anything else. Also 1800w is pretty powerful and the thing about anything electrically driven is the torque aspect, so maybe it's just giving the chain a hard time. But if you use a good brand of chain and it still stretches then maybe it's just something you'll have to live with. * - just seen your reply as I was typing and this probably isn't the case here.

The money shot. You got there eventually! 😂

No and yes. You'll also have the six inch in place if you ever change to a stove which needs it, of which there are many.

I'll keep an eye out for that, would do no harm to have a spare.

Well you know, pronunciation is important. A seen an ad recently where someone was selling a condescending boiler. Now if they'd known how to pronounce condense and it's derivatives properly...............................!

Start by going back to basics. Mould is caused by moisture in the air hitting a cold surface. So firstly is their excessive moisture in the air and/or is that a particularly cold surface? Secondly as Andy says is there an issue with that wall that the damp is getting in to it from elsewhere and not actually related to the conditions in the house? No point trying to find solutions for a problem until you know what the cause is. *edit* - sorry, just seen your reply as I was typing this and indeed you seem to be going about things the right way. 👍

Thanks, it arrived yesterday and seems pretty robust but I'll keep your advice in mind.

I was going to suggest that but was afraid I'd be accused of being crass. So I'll just agree but let you take the flak.

I guess the 'smart' meters will be carrot and stick. Currently in the UK it's carrots being offered for compliance, if that doesn't work they'll probably ultimately go down the same route as Germany are proposing and unilaterally restrict the supply at peak times.

But that's trying to micro-manage a national grid. I fail to see how that will ever be achieved effectively.

Yes, inefficiency in the generation/distribution equation. It would be nice to see what percentage of the kw/hr cost to the consumer is now paying for this inefficiency as opposed to simply generating the electricity and supplying it.

Paying the wind turbine operators to stop feeding the grid at times of excessive supply, and now paying householders to stop using the grid at times of excessive demand. Energy saving scheme: National Grid pays people to cut power again due to cold weather WWW.BBC.CO.UK Discounts will be offered to people who cut their energy use between 16:30 and 18:00 on Tuesday. When is the penny going to drop and those making the decisions realise that renewable energy generation is simply not compatible with the old national grid model. More importantly, is this the real reason why electricity is now the most expensive form of energy supplied to consumers?