Peter 1955
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Everything posted by Peter 1955
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If you're going to start using axes, adzes, picks, mattocks, chisels and semtex, then the blade is not bringing that much to the party. Doobin, I completely accept what you say. I never said it was the answer to life, the universe and everything, just ( in my humble opinion ) a good alternative to wrecking saws and chains.
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I'd use a Stihlsaw with a Terrasaur Blade rather than a chainsaw when soil or metal is expected. Recommended for root cutting, but be warned: They are absolutely correct, you cannot use it as a stump grinder! Well, as soon as they say you can't do something, you have to try it, don't you? 😉 Mine has cut roots, pallets and other crap. It's a lot slower than a chainsaw, but versatile.
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Best brush cutters/clearing saws?
Peter 1955 replied to drinksloe's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Short answer, no. Long answer, I can get covered in enough green, brown and multi coloured stuff as it is with a guard on, so I don't fancy adding to the detritus on my clothes by dispensing with it. I suspect that may elicit a reply along the lines of " don't knock it till you've tried it", but so be it. -
Best brush cutters/clearing saws?
Peter 1955 replied to drinksloe's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Now I'm definitely not known for fitting every possible guard to every bit of every machine, but I wouldn't fancy using a strimmer without a guard. When you see our American friends on Youtube, they all seem to be unguarded as well. Give me a bump'n'Go with a guard on every time. Each to his own. -
My son bought the corded Makita ages ago. It has a 16" bar, and it can turn it with ease. On occasion, I have buried it in big logs, and it copes well. For what it does, I suppose a 14" bar would be better for what I do, but I've never felt the overwhelming need to change it. It hasn't half cut some timber! I would/will replace it with the same again, no doubt.
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I've been using a customer's Husqvarna rider with a flail on recently. Very capable piece of kit, nimble too. I'd rather spifflicate twenty acres of vegetation with that, than a strimmer!
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Best brush cutters/clearing saws?
Peter 1955 replied to drinksloe's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I agree entirely. Was just thinking that this afternoon, while knocking down some long stuff. Once the blade is up to speed, it takes some stopping, while the line has virtually no momentum. -
Many thanks for your help, Alec, much appreciated. Looks like we have a plan to take forward.
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Absolutely. My son borrowed mine for a bit of aerial work, and was quite impressed.
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Pictures as requested. On closer inspection, the growth is mainly near the trunk. The dead branches are definitely dead, they just snap off. The leaves are curling up somewhat, which makes me wonder about aphids, or similar. Thanks for the advice so far.
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Although I'm by no means well informed ( hence asking the people on here who are ) my inclination was to prune it. I will snip a couple of dead looking ones to see what they look like when cut.
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I have found that my KM130 is fine with any of the blades I have fitted, but 2.7mm line can make it struggle a little, depending on what you're among. The KM100s aren't really man enough for that. I would expect anything over 40cc to cope easily, unless it's fitted with a cutting device that's seriously too big.
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Thank you for that, one or two things to check. Will try to get pics soon.
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Customer has an established Morello ( she says ) Cherry Tree in her garden. Around 3-4 metres high, maybe a little more. It's looked very poorly for a while, and now it's only got a minimal amount of growth/signs of life, including one bunch of potential cherries. Growth appears to be near branch ends. Trouble is, it's got loads of apparently dead branches. Big question is, do we leave it alone, or prune it back? If prune, how hard? Sorry I haven't taken picture, if it helps, I'll get one in a day or so. Thanks.
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No idea about the particular model, but could a bearing have seized? I've had machines do this after being stood for long periods, and engaging the drive results in stalled engines, or lots of belt squeaking.
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Our Charnwood inset boiler is the only heat source for the whole bungalow, and hot water. We have an electric shower, so don't need fire for that, and only use immersion very rarely for hot water. Looking good for next year's wood ( it's awaiting logging to length, splitting and stacking in shed ) but we've just about used two year's worth of wood in one, and have very little left ready to burn. A combination of a long cold spell or three, and the wife being home all day due to various flavours of lockdown have been disastrous. The stove will run on coal, which is a more attractive option than buying bags in from log suppliers, at the rate we are using it. It's been a blessed relief these past weeks, being able to reduce log usage, but I'm still lighting it every morning.
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Apologies, I can see how that might be misinterpreted, my mistake. I was referring to batteries and charger, not saws. The blighters have now put that up by £50, item number 665FV. It's not the bargain it was earlier.
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Clever little blighter, ain't it? 😉 That I think is the difference between a saw designed for hard nearly continuous use, and one designed to be used intermittently.
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Heat is the enemy of batteries. If I run my saw hard and stick the batteries straight on charge as they flatten, they refuse to charge, being too hot. Have to let them cool first. Absolutely correct about sharp chains and light pressure. It's only a battery saw after all. If I'm using a 16" bar, there's either a Stihl 038 turning it, or a mains powered saw. Stihl/Husky/Echo electric saws are capable of running bigger bars than mine, but that's Pro gear. I have three Makita battery drills, one has a side handle about a foot long, and needs it. One has a six inch handle, and one has no side handle. As you might guess, I don't put huge great drill bits in the one with no handle, it's not designed to turn them. Horses for courses.
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The battery Makita is a great saw, and relatively powerful too. I got mine because I have more Makita tools. Rear handled saws are readily available in this range, not just climbing saws. Make sure the chain is sharp, because that really saps the battery power, and I'd recommend a 12" chain, no longer. Also, you will need spare batteries, and a twin charger, unless you like having long tea breaks. The best deal anywhere is at Screwfix. 4x5ah batteries, and a twin charger for £279. Now it may or may not help you, but don't discount the 240v saws, ie cabled. I have an old one, and it's amazing. Easier than starting a petrol, but a length of cable to deal with.
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Chainsaw ht km pole pruner attachment problems
Peter 1955 replied to Chainsaw will's topic in Chainsaws
I've had similar problems with Kombi attachments. Usually it's been as a result of dirt getting into the system. I replaced one pump myself, and had the second one done by dealers, as it's a tad fiddly. I don't know if the dedicated units are similar. -
I think you may have misunderstood the idea. The way I've done it is to drill say a 4" hole with the petrol auger, and then bash a 6" post into the hole. Makes the knocking in so much easier. No concrete or postfix used.
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Ask, and ye shall receive. 5 Tonne transit. Heaven knows how deep pocket's you'll need? 😲😁
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The Makita 36v saw ( with ten or twelve inch bars ) is very good, but not in the same league as the professional saws like Stihl and Husky. ( In my humble opinion). I wouldn't be parted from mine, but I have loads of Makita tools already, so it made sense to get that one. Years ago, my son bought a Makita corded chainsaw, and it's been unbelievable. Cuts like a petrol, and very quiet. Until checking out some other models, I'd expected to replace it with another Makita, but I see that many other makes have significantly bigger motors. Although I've never felt the Makita was lacking oomph, it's food for thought.
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I too was told on here that for the 4-mix engines, you need the Stihl HP Super, the green stuff. Lower ash, or something. 👍
