Toad
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Everything posted by Toad
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Luckily they are included with the crankshaft, only £180 plus vat.
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If I'd known the crank was dubious then I wouldn't have started this project. Sadly I felt that with £300 sunk into it, I ought to carry on. Some of the ideas here are great, next time I might try the ide of centre punching the crank and using the sealant, but I get quite anxious - not entirely logically either - about stuff working properly and hate the idea that it would go tits up quickly because I'd taken a shortcut. Luckily, for the saw, not my wallet, it's just a hobby saw and the repairs don't need to make financial sense which they most definitely don't. Hopefully it'll do all I ever need of it.
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Oooooh. Actually, I have the speedcut bar and the husqvarna sp33g chain which is similar to the oregon one. Either way the narrow kerf results in really quick cuts.
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I have the 15" speedcutbar and chain on a saw and it is great.
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That is what I figured, a crank while expensive, is still cheaper than a piston and cylinder.
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Yup, the crank would spin inside of the bearing, the bearing wouldn't rotate. I had read that this was a problem with earlier ones, I guess this is where the air leak which cooked it originated. A new crank has been ordered. It has turned into a very expensive project.
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That is what I assumed. Thank you.
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Sadly it is the one between the crankcase and crankshaft.
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The spare parts for the 385 I ordered are due to be delivered today so I set about cleaning the saw up and getting ready to rebuild it. Sadly I've discovered that the clutch side bearing spins on the crankshaft. I have split the crankcase and measured the crankshaft, there doesn't seem to be an appreciable difference in the diameter, less than 0.1mm between the clearly shiny section the bearing has spun on and the bit that the bearing did not run on. The bearing feels a little gritty despite flushing it out with petrol and wd40, so I suspect that it is at fault. Has anyone used loctite bearing fit or something similar in the past? Should I just stump up for a new crankshaft? I don't imagine there are many reliable aftermarket units.
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I had a faux leatherman for the last 20ish years, it was great, did all sorts of stuff with it and took it around the world. However it has recently disappeared so my gf is going to get me a new leatherman surge as a present.
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I would fill it with mono and then put the braid on top.
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I was being quite hypocritical there, I must admit, hence quickly deleting it. I apologise.
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Actually, I regret that.
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That is how I took it too. New low for arbtalk today.
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A large problem will be at the refineries, you can't just stop them and restart again when there is more demand. The lack of petrochemical consumption will mean that the refineries will have been filling storage tanks but will be reaching the end of their capacity. In the UK tankers can be used as extra floating storage, but this again is only finite. I think the problem in the states is also to do with futures trading where people buy and sell barrels but only really on paper, they don't have anywhere to put the oil just rely on the fact they can sell it on between ordering and delivery, now they don't have anywhere for it to go.
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Thank you!
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Thanks. Shame about the stihl parts causing you a bottleneck.
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I've assumed that husqvarna parts will still be supplied from what I've heard, but stihl won't, is that what you understand too?
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Good tip about the fuel line splitting at that point.
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I think he means the air injection plastic bit that pushes air from the flywheel to the carb box.
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I think Spud may be referring to the gauze filter in the carb.
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I am just an amateur, and probably tend to go for bars at the longer end of the range for the saw. The 346 is impressive with the narrow kerf bar and chain. All husky. 346 15" 0.325 narrow kerf. 357 18" 3/8 371 20" 3/8 372 24" 3/8 385 28" 3/8
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A friend of ours would often snap the loader frame bolts in his MF 390T, the dealer would carefully burn them out with an oxy acetylene cutting torch. Didn't matter that the hole was blind, you'd just have to be careful of the splashback. Start in the centre and work your way out. If you don't feel brave enough to take it out close to the threads it ought to still contract enough to remove.
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Yeah, 85cc. Would I be better off going down the low profile route to put less load on the saw? Would be keen to run one of my 372s on it on smaller wood to keep the wear and tear down on the 385
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Looks good to me, you should be pleased with yourself with that. I often sit and worry about stuff long after building or rebuilding something. Little things about the build will often play on my mind.
