Toad

From which direction is the prevailing wind? I assume the ride you have it on is one of the ones you have shown in your thread and the vegetation is cut back for some distance either side allowing sunlight and air to move around? I think your suggestion of hardstanding alongside the long side of the building is good and load logs in from the side. Would be ideal for stock rotation, and should mean that air can penetrate easier into the shed from the open side. How high will it be? How high will you stack the bags of logs inside? I have been wondering about some pallet racking to allow air right around some ibcs and bags when they are indoors, but I think it's a bit overkill. Since moving out of some helpful buildings we rented, my split logs now live with sections of our old farm shop roof on top to try to keep them dryish. I went two deep and high perpendicular to the prevailing wind to get maximum dryiness.

I agree with the poorly marked utility traces.

I have the short stihl one and found it worked great till I ruined the point,and then hit it with a log splitter. Have the short husky one and that is pretty good, much more meaty handle though.

I hate those clips. I use a big set of needle nose pliers at the base of the clamp to pull it together and a smaller set to pop the tongue into the slot. Then usually I notice that the boot isn't sat right and have to redo it...

Found this in the oil tank of a 346 I'm rebuilding, I believe from a husky can.

As I understand it, the presence of ditches or not doesn't matter, you are downhill and therefore should accept the water. Were there any ditches or any form of drainage previously? A lot of stuff disappears into the weeds or gets filled in. You could try speaking to the local lead flood authority, which may be the same council, but a different department.

Thanks. I should have taken my time and thought harder about it. Fingers crossed the new seal arrives soon and I don't knacker anything else! The new piston and cylinder arrived from the US in good condition and without extra charges, which was nice.

I've answered my own question by rtfm.

Afternoon. What is the best way to install the clutch side crank seal on a 346? I have the proper crank installation tool but I don't think it presses the seal into place far enough. I've been a clumsy ham fisted fool and pushed one in too far this afternoon. Boo.

They aren't perfect, but they certainly do the job. Ours feeds the pigs twice a day, runs a few miles up and down the roads and around the sheep. We have a little trailer with folding livestock sides and a ramp for moving the odd pig or a few sheep a short distance. I think its a bigger model than yours - a 4010. We do get stuck a little bit, not to the point of needing to tow it out, but usually its because we are in deep mud, wet parts of the field and are trying to do something silly. The tyres are expensive to replace so be careful not to damage them, keep an eye on belt wear, and the front pulley has weights in which wear. The weights are a couple of pounds each, but if they wear too much you need a new pulley at a significant cost. Keep an eye on the brakes as the drums can fill with mud - I think this is a current issue with ours and the shoes won't retract enough to get the drums off. Looks like you should get many years out of your one, especially if you look after it from new.

We are on our third mule, had a 2wd petrol, 4wd petrol and now a 4wd diesel. Easily the most used bit of kit on the farm. Have the walter mauser cab on it which is nice, and have just put new foam and seat material in it this morning as the original seat was completely shot.

Apparently it is very reminiscent of pork.

Don't surface dress it as its under trees and will be cold/damp for much of the time which surface dressing really doesn't like. Maybe investigate microasphalt, they can fill those small holes with it to regulate the surface and then smear a layer over the top of everything. Would need work to get the moss/green stuff off first to get decent adhesion. Otherwise 35mm of ac10 or perhaps ac6 overlaid in top would be the option I would pick.

I think it is on global shipping. Fingers crossed it doesn't burn me!

Awesome. Thank you. It is supposed to be genuine husqvarna. Fingers crossed it is!

£110 all in including shipping and tax.

I would have preferred one with a machined hole, but this doesn't have one it seems. Guess I could get one machined, but it isn't hard to start a 50cc saw without one.

It is the new cylinder that doesn't have the decomp plug hole.

Found a new oem cylinder and piston on Ebay from the US for £110. Figured it was worth a go. Part no. 544 14 29 07 which shows as a 50cc with no decomp and the photo shows the decomp hole hasn't been machined. Hopefully it'll be OK. Or I've thrown more money away!

Awesome, thanks for the link.

Yeah, that is the problem, it isn't a saw that I would make money with, its already a loss making exercise after I bought the other bits required to rebuild, which I now don't need. I'll keep them in stock until I rebuild another 346 I have, but it is a bit of a kick in the balls.

Spending a few months away from work trying to catch up on various jobs around the farm. Was hoping to rebuild a broken husky 346,but have buggered that up. Tried and failed to fix a faulty check valve on a loader, but have fixed the door catch on the mule, welded the yard scraper up and have made progress on making the pick up hitch on our old international work again and hopefully stopped an injector leaking on the freshly rebuilt engine. Fingers crossed I fix more things than I break for the rest of the week.

Slight thread resurrection. Any decent quality aftermarket cylinders available now, or does anyone have a decent 50cc cylinder available? I buggered mine up today trying to clean up aluminum transfer, I let the acid get onto the edge of the exhaust port and now the nicasil coating is all knackered at that point. Stupid me.

I see you've actually done some of those things now... I didn't read allow the thread to the end... Soz

I'm really curious about this still. Going back to basics, when you tighten the chain you have the bar nuts finger tight, lift the tip of the bar and tighten the chain keeping the tip lifted when you then tighten the nuts right? Exactly what bar and chain are they? The clutch drum spins freely with the bar and chain removed? Is there any radial play in the clutch? Does the tensioner move all the way front to back when you adjust it with the clutch cover removed? Can you show us pictures of the oil holes in the bar? Perhaps there is a manufacturing issue with the bar.